K
KRS
Guest
I'll post up some pics of my broken box tomorrow, OS Giken clutch's being blamed then? :/
Holinger Sequential Gearbox...
- Thread starter Rishi
- Start date
T
tro||
Guest
well guess where simons broke :doh: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:Dooie Pop Pop said:
at least his brace has solved the input shaft bearing problem :lol: just got to work out how to strengthen the main shaft bearing seat at the bell housing end :doh:
forget all this i'll ask such and such bollox, theres a guy with the skills, means, genuine interest and intelligence to solve it right here on this forum, its no real big deal that its broken tbh, the gearset is ok which is the important part. I hope he gets it sorted as it means much more to do something yourself than paying someone else to do it
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Dooie Pop Pop
New Member
:shock: when did that break then? or was it fractured/cracked at rotorstock?tro|| said:well guess where simons broke :doh: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
at least his brace has solved the input shaft bearing problem :lol: just got to work out how to strengthen the main shaft bearing seat at the bell housing end :doh:
forget all this i'll ask such and such bollox, theres a guy with the skills, means, genuine interest and intelligence to solve it right here on this forum, its no real big deal that its broken tbh, the gearset is ok which is the important part. I hope he gets it sorted as it means much more to do something yourself than paying someone else to do it
yeah been talking to si today hes been buy getting engine out the case has cracked the other end now so the brace has done its job as the box must have been recieving stress but its just shifted it else where
he said its a rough area of casting where its broke so a couple of ideas have been hatched to try and sort the area out a bit but i think its gonna be a case of chasing the crack now as its just gonna move to next weak spot
it will be sorted by totb eitherway
he said its a rough area of casting where its broke so a couple of ideas have been hatched to try and sort the area out a bit but i think its gonna be a case of chasing the crack now as its just gonna move to next weak spot
it will be sorted by totb eitherway
Dooie Pop Pop
New Member
well thats sort of good news anyway lol.
chemical metal?
chemical metal?
Rishi
Still waiting on some shims!
Yeah Si called me today to inform me of all this... But he did have an idea of how to help solve the problem... I did also give him another idea to think about...
Will see what happens though....
Good that he'll be ready for TOTB... I just hope the Box lasts... Other than that it looks like the only way will be to use a straight cut 1st and 2nd...
Rishi
Will see what happens though....
Good that he'll be ready for TOTB... I just hope the Box lasts... Other than that it looks like the only way will be to use a straight cut 1st and 2nd...
Rishi
0
00sid
Guest
i have had a good look at the case now, and there is a couple things im going to try, ( cant afford a straight cut kit at the mo ) the area where the crack has started is on the inside of the main shaft bearing seat where an oil way is, this area has been cast quite badly so im going to remove all shape edges and polish out any casting imperfections in the new casing, also im going to try and weld a strenghing plate on the back aslong as there is room to clear the clutch.
hopefully this will hold up for awhile as the crack is only very small just enough to let oil out. i noticed the oil leak just before rotorstock and i still ran two runs with it and it held together.
even with straigth cut gears i still think we are going to have problems with the case as it realy weak,,,,
hopefully this will hold up for awhile as the crack is only very small just enough to let oil out. i noticed the oil leak just before rotorstock and i still ran two runs with it and it held together.
even with straigth cut gears i still think we are going to have problems with the case as it realy weak,,,,
Wouldn't it be easier just get a titananium/carbon/iron case made up :-D :-D
Or just except it that the case is crap and stick to 1 bar and 300 break
Just as an after thought and I know you don't have the time atm, I did some research into Cryo treating some parts and according to the specialists the treatment is supposed to have helped in some really tricky situations.
Steve
Or just except it that the case is crap and stick to 1 bar and 300 break
Just as an after thought and I know you don't have the time atm, I did some research into Cryo treating some parts and according to the specialists the treatment is supposed to have helped in some really tricky situations.
Steve
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CruiseGTi-R
Member
...or just get it re-cast in thicker steel where possible (keeps cost down vs alloys/titanium).
Has this been looked at, is it massively expensive?
Someone said you need the moulds, but surely all you need is a new casing to take mould from this, then get them to add 10mm thickness where needed.
Would weigh shit loads more though
Using Evo box def wouldn't work then?
Sure no other Nissan family box wouldn't work?
Has this been looked at, is it massively expensive?
Someone said you need the moulds, but surely all you need is a new casing to take mould from this, then get them to add 10mm thickness where needed.
Would weigh shit loads more though
Using Evo box def wouldn't work then?
Sure no other Nissan family box wouldn't work?
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Rishi
Still waiting on some shims!
stevepudney said:
£15k for an all steel casing to take the power.. And you would also need the casing moulds...
stevepudney said:
I already mentioned www.frozensolid.co.uk to Simon... Could really help... I would do it all after the strengthening plates have been done of course...
Rishi
CruiseGTi-R
Member
What about welding straps all across the seams and over both ends where its known to be weak.
It would be relatively simple metal work.
How about wrapping the entire casing in lots of carbon fibre sheets. Although I'm not sure how good cf is in tension. You could layer 10mm of the stuff though and it wouldn't weigh too much either. If you're after just 10% more stress it might do the job.
I'm on a couple of composites forums (geeky I know), I could ask some opinions?
It would be relatively simple metal work.
How about wrapping the entire casing in lots of carbon fibre sheets. Although I'm not sure how good cf is in tension. You could layer 10mm of the stuff though and it wouldn't weigh too much either. If you're after just 10% more stress it might do the job.
I'm on a couple of composites forums (geeky I know), I could ask some opinions?
The carbon/Titanium option was actually supposed to be sarcasm :yawn:
Simmo
Member
Off on a tangent - Just got a reply from Mark @ PPG.
Prices for a complete straight cut 5 speed gearset with synchromesh (in AUD). Note: This doesn't include the accessories needed for a rebuild (i say needed, because most people probably dont want to reuse forks etc).
Model / No. | RRP | PPG Standard Ratios| Selectors? | Remarks
Nissan N14 GTiR 1/2 (syncro) | $2,500 | 2.833 / 1.687 | NO | Direct fit - no mods needed
Nissan N14 GTiR 3rd (syncro) | $750 | 1.200 | NO | Direct fit - no mods needed
Nissan N14 GTiR 4th (syncro) | $750 | 0.955 | NO | Direct fit - no mods needed
Nissan N14 GTiR 3/4 billet selector fork | $400 | Direct fit - no mods needed
Estimate freight at $350 AUD.
Prices for a complete straight cut 5 speed gearset with synchromesh (in AUD). Note: This doesn't include the accessories needed for a rebuild (i say needed, because most people probably dont want to reuse forks etc).
Model / No. | RRP | PPG Standard Ratios| Selectors? | Remarks
Nissan N14 GTiR 1/2 (syncro) | $2,500 | 2.833 / 1.687 | NO | Direct fit - no mods needed
Nissan N14 GTiR 3rd (syncro) | $750 | 1.200 | NO | Direct fit - no mods needed
Nissan N14 GTiR 4th (syncro) | $750 | 0.955 | NO | Direct fit - no mods needed
Nissan N14 GTiR 3/4 billet selector fork | $400 | Direct fit - no mods needed
Estimate freight at $350 AUD.
