i took the car to them in the first place as the head gasket had blown , i supplied them with the cometic 1.2mm .. arp studs and all other gaskets etc ,
so its there responsibility all the way .. my head was sent out by them for a full refurb and was skimmed too .. they also had my pistons and rings out for inspection of the block bores and i think they may have even re honed , so you would expect them to have checked the block surface ..
all in all im not expecting anything untoward from them at all , i just want the car back ...
i think they ll probably use standard head bolts if they have to re do the head gasket , or will they re use the arps ? is this ok
might be a good time to throw those cams in bob
so its there responsibility all the way .. my head was sent out by them for a full refurb and was skimmed too .. they also had my pistons and rings out for inspection of the block bores and i think they may have even re honed , so you would expect them to have checked the block surface ..
all in all im not expecting anything untoward from them at all , i just want the car back ...
i think they ll probably use standard head bolts if they have to re do the head gasket , or will they re use the arps ? is this ok
might be a good time to throw those cams in bob
P
pulsarboby
Guest
yes will be a good time to fit the cams, then any necessary shim adjustments can also be made whilst the heads on the bench
like kieron said above, im not a lover of these head studs either! i cannot see the point in them tbh as the oe nissan bolts are capable of holding the head down very firmly in high powered engines.
if i were you i would ask them to remove them (flog them on ebay) and buy yourself a standard set of bolts to go back.
these studs also make it a real pain in the ass job to remove the head, as you have obviously got to lift it right over the studs which is not easy to do with the engine in situ.
like kieron said above, im not a lover of these head studs either! i cannot see the point in them tbh as the oe nissan bolts are capable of holding the head down very firmly in high powered engines.
if i were you i would ask them to remove them (flog them on ebay) and buy yourself a standard set of bolts to go back.
these studs also make it a real pain in the ass job to remove the head, as you have obviously got to lift it right over the studs which is not easy to do with the engine in situ.
the advantage of a correctly designed/installed stud over a bolt is that the studs provide a more accurate and consistent torque loading.pulsarboby said:
Using bolts to secure a head, the whole bolt, being the fastener is being twisted while it's being torqued to the correct reading, the bolt is reacting to the force being applied on it and a resistance against the threads in the block as it tightens down.
A stud should be installed finger tight. Then the torque is applied to the nut. The stud if its bottomed out in the block will not twist and can only stretch on the vertical. This provides a more even clamping force on the head.
Whats been discussed with the arps for our engine is that if there is a problem with them its due to the fact that the stud is not bottoming into the block, The chisel point of the nismo studs (rob can provide pics) bottoms out in the block so the stud cant twist when the nuts are torqued, all of the jap studs for the sr20 seem to have this design, the arps do not. Arp however stated to me that there is not a problem with their design and they will not cause any issues with head lift/gasket failure. They told me 2.5-3 times stud diametre of thread depth was adequate on an aluminium block, and the studs would not pull. However, the Arp design department also told another guy when he sent drawings for sr studs to them that they had nothing to suit the application...
and there i was saying i had nothing useful to add to this forum only yesterday :lol:
from the information i've gathered and experiences of very good engine builders any issues with the arps seem to be when people torque them to the packaging recommended 70lbft.
like allen says, cometics seem to suck on the sr20 :lol: if frank (turblio) still comes on here, his own issue with the engine that se nissan built would seem to confirm what others have been saying in the states for a while.
hks all the way 8)
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i seem to be finding out all this info a tad bit late , i did do my research on here about what gasket and studs to use and all the posts i read talked up the arps and the cometic .
i know its all opinions at the end of the day but somethings up with my motor , i just want it done right once and for all , im up to over 10 grand in reciepts for the R now ..
i ll be over to the garage on mon to try and get the latest , will update my post then
cheers for all the input fellas ..
i know its all opinions at the end of the day but somethings up with my motor , i just want it done right once and for all , im up to over 10 grand in reciepts for the R now ..
i ll be over to the garage on mon to try and get the latest , will update my post then
cheers for all the input fellas ..
antgtir
New Member
Still in the middle of it mate lol. Ive got the Blazt package and had a few suggestions from this.olliecast said:
My cousin has an R so ive been able to nick the TPS sensor and lambda sensor to test on mine, will hopefully find the problem or at least knock those two possibilities off the list.
Ant.
antgtir
New Member
Guys ive had another look at the run i did and logged on the datalogger, ive noticed that the EGR solenoid is set to the off position throughout the run, is this normal?
Also i wouldn't mind knowing were to find the voltage across the TPS sensor from the datalogger, maybe this one is for Micra Ed?
Any help appreciated.
Ant.
Also i wouldn't mind knowing were to find the voltage across the TPS sensor from the datalogger, maybe this one is for Micra Ed?
Any help appreciated.
Ant.
geoff pine
Well-Known Member
Dont think it has an egr solenoid i think its fitted to none turbo cars in the sr20.de range.
MORF114
Active Member
Gearbox problems only in 2nd gear.
Just been thinking about my gearbox problem grinds in 2nd gear in a fully rebuilt quaife box with brand spanking new everything,
Question is , can you put a syncro in backwards and would it cause it to constantly grind in that gear but be sweet as in all other gears?
If i took a photo of my gears /syncros etc could you tell if something was wrong by looking at the gears / syncros ?
Im no expert on gearbox's so havent got a clue, just dont want this guy to try and blag his way out of a warranty claim by trying to bullshit me.
Just been thinking about my gearbox problem grinds in 2nd gear in a fully rebuilt quaife box with brand spanking new everything,
Question is , can you put a syncro in backwards and would it cause it to constantly grind in that gear but be sweet as in all other gears?
If i took a photo of my gears /syncros etc could you tell if something was wrong by looking at the gears / syncros ?
Im no expert on gearbox's so havent got a clue, just dont want this guy to try and blag his way out of a warranty claim by trying to bullshit me.
Pedal to the floor.
Had a new clutch fitted 500 miles ago all was fine upto today, I was driving along in traffic and my clutch pedal has dropped to the floor, there is also a rattleing sound coming from under the bonnet so I have had a look and the rod going into the slave cylinder seem to be really loose inside the slave cylinder and rattling around, does this sound like it could just be as simple as a slave cylinder replacement? Also whay do pulsars always break at the worst of times, mines been really good for two years and a week before I move from lancashire to hampshire it lets me down!!!
Had a new clutch fitted 500 miles ago all was fine upto today, I was driving along in traffic and my clutch pedal has dropped to the floor, there is also a rattleing sound coming from under the bonnet so I have had a look and the rod going into the slave cylinder seem to be really loose inside the slave cylinder and rattling around, does this sound like it could just be as simple as a slave cylinder replacement? Also whay do pulsars always break at the worst of times, mines been really good for two years and a week before I move from lancashire to hampshire it lets me down!!!
gunmetalgtir
New Member
Sounds like the seals on the clutch cylinders, the rattling may be the release bearing? Was this changed when the clutch was done?
gunmetalgtir
New Member
The symptoms were different from this when my clutch fork went due to a shitty RPS being fitted! The pedal was really stiff and when depressed you couldn't put the car in any gears without having to ram it in! I wonder if the box is still alive in my old Pulsar! :lol:Mr GTiR said:
thanks for the prompt replys, It an excedy organic clutch not from ebay! the release bearing and fork were both changed when the clutch was, the rattleing is defo coming from the slave cylinder its like its hollow and the rod just rattles inside, it rattles more when I press the pedal but the pedal isnt coming back up.
gunmetalgtir
New Member
I think the repair kits for the seals, master + slave, are around £20 from Nissan.