turbodaily
New Member
sorry my bad i ment par
im aiming for 300bhp at the wheels once the new engine is installed.... this straight cut box will reduce my power loss through transmission too from the 20 - 25% we are already losing as less friction through the straight cut gears .
(learn somein new every day !)
the car will be a ballistic street weapon once finished.. Gearset will be ordered ASAP.
(learn somein new every day !)
the car will be a ballistic street weapon once finished.. Gearset will be ordered ASAP.
rishi looked into it ages ago, it was alot more than i was interested in paying but cant remember the exact figure.
even with improving the strength of the endcase the chances are its going to crack at the bell housing end like si's did when he first ran with the brace.
for a complete billet housing, as with most of these things the best bet would be getting it done abroad or buy a honda civic as they are already available in the states and very cool indeed
even with improving the strength of the endcase the chances are its going to crack at the bell housing end like si's did when he first ran with the brace.
for a complete billet housing, as with most of these things the best bet would be getting it done abroad or buy a honda civic as they are already available in the states and very cool indeed
Rishi
Still waiting on some shims!
I looked into this over here and over in the US.. Costs are just silly for a single case.. Even with guaranteed sales of 10 its still stupidly expensive..
Remember with the likes of the Civic there are thousands in the tuning world compared to the few GTiR's out there... Its not in any companies interest to make such an item for us..
Cheapest i found a custom casing would be around £15,000 and i would also need access to the current Gearbox Moulds i think..
Rishi
Remember with the likes of the Civic there are thousands in the tuning world compared to the few GTiR's out there... Its not in any companies interest to make such an item for us..
Cheapest i found a custom casing would be around £15,000 and i would also need access to the current Gearbox Moulds i think..
Rishi
the nightmare continues , still havent got the car back and ever since the heater hose blew and has been replaced the car is now overheating .. fine off boost apparently , but as soon as on boost heater blows cold and temps shoot up .. any ideas anyone ? the garage are trying to sort it obviousley but to no avail yet , stat has been changed , coolant flushed and refilled etc , but a little bit of head scratching has started again ...
head lifting maybe ? its got arp head studs fitted and i remember reading a few posts regarding the torquing of the arps and how there was a knack or else they d lift ... just a stab in the dark really ... im hoping its not head gasket ... im off for xmas now and have only a tatty work van as transportation
not a happy camper
head lifting maybe ? its got arp head studs fitted and i remember reading a few posts regarding the torquing of the arps and how there was a knack or else they d lift ... just a stab in the dark really ... im hoping its not head gasket ... im off for xmas now and have only a tatty work van as transportation
not a happy camper
P
pulsarboby
Guest
soin said:
not sure on the torquing down of head studs, but had a car in recently with exactly the same prob as you have described.
was there a steel cometic gasket fitted?
if yes, was the block and head faces checked before fitting?
if not then i reckon you will find that the head is blowing between a cylinder and waterway and pressurising the whole cooling system (which is why the hose blew apart)
unfortunately it leaves you in a tricky situation regarding the garage, as they could quite easily turn round and say that you have an internal crack in your head (which could render them not liable to fix it)
that head and block face should have been fully checked for distortion and leak tested before fitting the steel cometic gasket, as there really is no leeway with them, everything needs to be 100% flat for them to work to there full effectiveness.
good luck matey, think you could have a bit of a problem here! lets hope you have got yourself covered by leaving the rebuild entirely to them at the start.
There seems to be alot of confusion with the suitability of the arp headstuds. A fair few of the sr engine builders in the states are staying away from them, but then again theres plenty of people not having issues with them. One problem that has been discussed is the stud does not bottom out in the block like the nismo or other jap head studs do. None of the jap head studs are available for our engine anymore :sad:soin said:
Another issue is the torque settings quoted on the arps, when using arp moly lube the box says 70lbft iirc, alot of engine builders in the us go 90lbft and when i contacted arp they told me 80lbft. The studs should be done finger tight, then you torque the nut down.
so who the fcku knows :lol: tbh the standard head bolts are more than good enough for most and you wouldn't have any issues with how much to torque them down to.