Raising the compression?

neil240z

neil240z

Member
It wont be the diff, they whine when worn and its always an Idea to check your gearbox oil levels, if its a grinding then as someone else suggested it could be wheel bearing or CV joint more likely. still dont know your location?
 
Y

youngsyp

Active Member
Does your car have ABS ?

Maybe the wheel sensor and/or outer CV joint (where the ABS ring is) are making contact ?!
 
antgtir

antgtir

New Member
Well, i got the det sensor, fitted the little mo fo over the weekend, re earthed the maf and ................................ the little barsteward is still popping / hesitant on partial throttle, partial load.

The det sensor has definately worked as prior to fitting the new one the ecu was screaming 34, now with the new one its all ok 55, so its not a wasted weekend lol.

The maf earth had a residual voltage of approx 11.4mV and when i re earthed it, it dropped to approx 5.4mV so well below accepted maximum.

Next step i think is to change the maf unit itself, the coil, the fuel pressure regulator to try and isolate the prob and tick off a few other possibilities.

By the time ive finished looking for the cause of this problem i will have replaced the majority of parts on the damn thing lol, oh well back to the drawing board i suppose. :lol:

Ant.
 
saddler

saddler

Active Member
rear axle frame

looking to drop the Rear axle and the frame can the complete frame and axle be taken off together ??
Regards
saddler
 
Mr GTiR

Mr GTiR

New Member
Yes the rear subframe will drop in one go but diconnect the prop, brakes lines, and hand brake cables first.
 
O

Odin

Guest
saddler said:
diconnect the prop ?? would that be inside or out ??
Sdl
Click to expand...
If you have no idea what a prop is then I don't think you should really be let lose with the spanners matey :doh: :lol: :lol: .

The prop shaft is attached to the diff via the underside of the car and the gearbox/transfer box, Also you have to disconnect the ABS sensors from the main loom, The prop has four bolts connecting it to the rear diff, The ABS wires are tricky to get off so take your time, The hand brake cables will need to come off if you intend to remove the whole unit from under the car, The are held on to the underside of the sub frame by two 10mm nuts I believe.

Also the hand break cables need removing from the rear calipers.

You MUST make sure the car is securely mounted on Axle stands before attempting to undo the four big nuts holding on the sub frame because they will be very tight indeed and you could end up pulling the car off te stands if you're not careful, You will need a big breaker bar, And don't forget to have your trolly jack under the diff when you do this as well.

Oh and please ask your questions in the right section in future :doh: .


Rob
 
A

another sunny

Guest
earth problems

I have had MAJOR problems with my R running, after i fitted a new gearbox it started to run rough, i couldnt find any faults thinking it would be a boost leak etc. It finaly stopped running completely, after lots of advice i checked all the engine earths, it had an HKS earting kit fitted so i presumed all would be ok, and it was. About to give up i tried the earth on the AFM, i removed the earth wire from the body and bolted it directly to the neg terminal on the battery, hey presto it now starts and runs almost fine, almost!
I still have an intermittant radio and speedo, it seems i have an earth problem inside the cabin also.
Should i start re earthing the radio etc?
Also i now am running negative vac on tickover -10 ish and even though it shows boost of 1 bar it hasnt got the go it had before when boosting 1 bar. It always ran on 0 vac before the earth fault?
Is there any garage near barnstaple devon i can trust to not rip me off?????:der:
 
O

Odin

Guest
As requested lol, Which oil

Answer Silkolene Pro S 10w-50 ester/pao synthetic






Rob
 
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