Raising the compression?

D

djdoc360

New Member
vss irvine said:
this is daft, if your going rwd drive, use the rwd sr20det variant. its already on coilpacks, the mounts are in the correct place, youll get the proper gearbox aswell!

the oil pick up in the pulsar sump is at the 'front' of the engine, so if you turn it 90 degrees in the engine bay, when you accelerate, theres a chance your going to starve the engine of oil. the 54c engine was built to be transverse mounted ie, fwd/awd.
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i agree, buy a sr20det black top from a S14. The motor can handle 500hp with stock parts. Rnn14 do have the better SR but it is easer to get 600+ HP out of a S13/14/15 v.s. RNN14.
 
vss irvine

vss irvine

Well-Known Member
nah mate, its a different engine. the rwd engine has different timing set up, different cooling layout, and different rocker cover etc

honestly, its not worth doing.
 
C

cmng

New Member
i have a friend also thinking to shot is build up RNN14 engine to a S15

he selling off this car bare shell and keep the engine in mind to shot in a S15

so far still research on the mounting and gearbox issue only before he go ahead
 
T

tenfoloten

Member
Odin said:
You can but the wheel might fall off as the bearing falls apart :shock: :lol: :lol: :lol: .

I did it with mine with out engaging my brain and the front wheel fell off at the end of the drive :shock: :lol: :lol: :lol: .

You could separate the drive shaft and bolt the hub end back in ;-) .



Rob
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there is an another method?
thanks
 
N

neomccollum

Guest
ok problem sovled, rule of thumb if it feels like you are running on 3 cylinders you probably are... pulled off the top mount looking for vacuum lines that might be disconnected. Found one injector wire disconnected, the mechanic had used a butt-connector to re-attatch a spliced injector wire. It had previously been spliced for a car starter install... soldered that baby back up and it purred like a kitten!

Then later that night driving around I had another running problem, hit a bump and after the bump no power chugging when you put your foot on the accelerator, and black smoke blowing out the tail. The idle however was perfect, turned out to be a broken connector on the MAF, the harness had a lot of tension on it coming from the block. I decided to extend the wires to the MAF, soldering in an extra 4 inches of wire on the 3 wires to the MAF.

I was wondering if the extending of the MAF wires would change resistance in the circuit and affect performance at all? anyone know if it will make a difference?
 
S

s18rra

Guest
right just an update, i didnt touch the car for a week after the problem then went to turn it on and found the clutch pedal was on the floor, i pulled it back up and it started working fine again,i can now select gears again and even took it for a drive a it still selected fine, only thing is it still makes a horrible noise when i press the clutch down.
what is the problem and why can i suddenly select gears again:?
 
steven_c

steven_c

Member
sounds like a clutch release bearing buddy or clutch slave cylinder creeping, either way i think its a safe bet the box is coming out!!
 
steven_c

steven_c

Member
vss irvine said:
this is a good enough reason not to remove the engine to do a clutch! as you disturb so much more than just dropping the gearbox!

ive done over 15 clutches now, all without removing the engine!

your basically going to have to check every hose and multiplug thats been disconnected
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you must be one brave mo fo... i did that twice and never again engine out please :)
 
antgtir

antgtir

New Member
Id be tempted to check over all connections and areas that were moved disconnected etc as you never know what else is waiting to bite you.

Great news you found the problems though.

Ant.
 
G

geoff pine

Well-Known Member
If you had just undone the tape on the wiring harness there's enough wire to mount your filter behind the head light with out splicing in extra wire.
 
S

steve963

Active Member
the rubber pipe on the clutch cable was split on mine, you couldnt see it but fluid just weeped out
depending on where the fluid was (i think) it worked or didnt. sometimes the pedal was on the floor but sometimes it worked

check fluid level in clutch resovoir???
 
S

smoked

New Member
how far do you go

hey all

im currently rebuilding an engine that i can bolt a 3071 and hopefully get say 450bhp out of, to heres my spec so far and bits i have

cp pistons 86.5mm
light weight pulleys cdf racing
800cc injectors
z32 maf
lightwight flywheel and 6 paddle clutch
crank, rods and pistons balanced
new oil and water pumps
new timing chain and all guides and tensioner
arp rod, mains and head kit
acl bearings for bottom end
hks 87mm 1.2 head gasket
full gasket set
jgy customs fuel rail
nismo pressure reg

now will that alone see that power? as i was toying with getting a set of brian crower cams and springs but if they arent needed i wont bother. is there anything else that any one recomends to see that power out of a sr20det?

chris
 
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S

smoked

New Member
cheers guys, yeah gearbox is on the shopping list, but this is just a spare engine that im building in my free time so im doing this first and im not in a rush.

the 450 would be a high setting and not in use all the time like you say Rob. So rods could be a good investment over cams and springs? also larger injectors, what are we talking more like 1000cc?

also do you think its a better idea to run the engine in on the standard turbo, ecu, etc... basically how the car is running now, then fit the uprated turbo, injectors and have it mapped to suit those after the engine has a few miles on.
 
Fusion Ed

Fusion Ed

Active Member
800cc @ higher base pressure will do the job fine. Probably is better to run in then change inj turbo etc... I perfer working like that anyway. Less varibles.
 
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