Raising the compression?

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pulsarboby

Guest
ive got the 4'' inlet on mine and tbh its a lot of aggro to fit and has no benefits as previously pointed out.

if you do fit that then you will need a 3/4'' spacer plate and extended studs from the block (morf114 makes them) you will also need to grind a bit off the belled block face to get clearance to fit the induction pipe on.
but you wont need to alter the exhaust as theres enough give in it to pull it back 3/4''

but do yourself a favour and stick with the 2.75 inlet;-)
 
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neomccollum

Guest
Engine trouble

Okay so after the clutch was replaced last night I took the car out for a test run, other than the clutch pedal needing adjusting I have a big problem with power. before installing the clutch the car was a rocket, now under acceleration it seems like it has no power. It still boosts but it makes a thudding sound under acceleration like something is holding it back from revving smoothly. The engine was dropped to do the clutch, all vacuum lines and ECU were dissconnected. On a side note my speedo, and one aftermarket boost gauge also don't work. Any help would be awsome!
 
gtir_pimp

gtir_pimp

New Member
when you say on a side note, do you mean its not as important but they were working before? check the back of the boost gauge to see if or what vacuum hose goes to it and look under the bonnet to see if its actually connected anything.
they could of put all the vacuum pipes on wrong.
what was it boosting to before and whats it at now?
 
PobodY

PobodY

Moderators
Staff member
Sounds like a boost leak to me - check the connection to the boost gauge as suggested.
Mine sometimes leaks where it's connected to the dump valve and it's like the car has hicups or something... quick adjusment and she's off again.

Although if the speedo isn't working because the sender was accidentaly disconnected when you did the clutch, it could be that the ECU is getting no signal and you're in limp mode.
 
vss irvine

vss irvine

Well-Known Member
this is a good enough reason not to remove the engine to do a clutch! as you disturb so much more than just dropping the gearbox!

ive done over 15 clutches now, all without removing the engine!

your basically going to have to check every hose and multiplug thats been disconnected
 
D

dan-dan

Guest
vss irvine said:
this is a good enough reason not to remove the engine to do a clutch! as you disturb so much more than just dropping the gearbox!

ive done over 15 clutches now, all without removing the engine!

your basically going to have to check every hose and multiplug thats been disconnected
Click to expand...
this also depends how good you are ;-) or how confident you are with your work.
 
R

Radleigh

New Member
Question about the Pulsar engine...

Is it the same as a 200sx engine, bar the obvious, Inlet, turbo, ITB's etc.. But the block and head?

Question I'm asking, Could it be used IN a RWD car? forget all the custom bits need making, I'm on about the block and head.

Obviously it'll need to be plumbed in properly, water etc.

Just I'm thinking of binning my pulsar, and using the engine in something like a E30 BMW, S13 200sx etc

And before everyone says "why don't you just buy a 200sx S14a" I don't want to, I want something older, with this engine in, If its possible.

Been told its no good for RWD application due to oil ways, How true is this? :?

Done a search, But can't find the answer I'm looking for, So excuse me if its been covered before.

Cheers :thumbsup:
 
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Radleigh

New Member
It'll be on coilpack so that solves the dizzy prob, engine mounts custom. I just need to know about the oil ways in the block and head.


Cheers :)
 
R

Radleigh

New Member
I see what you mean by the engine mount, Just thinking to when I had my engine out.

Cheers though :)
 
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R

Radleigh

New Member
Been speaking to a friend, works in drag cars. Said you can mount the engine via a plate, between the gearbox/block then mount that to the chassis :D

Then just have a mount at the front for support, like the front of the block has now.


:thumbsup:
 
R

Radleigh

New Member
Heads standard in my car, Only looking for about 300bhp, as the car will be seriously stripped, so dont need masses of power.
 
S

smoked

New Member
me and a friend recently made an e30, with a e36 m3 engine also turbo charged. it is all RHD its a much easyier option than getting a sr20det in. you can put any 6 cyl in there doesnt have to be m3 and turbo charging it is easy too. i think it would be less hastle, cheaper and better suited to the car for driffting etc. i have pics if you like
 
S

smoked

New Member
as well if your only aiming for 300 bhp the m3 engines put that out as standard, or you could still turbo it and run the high compression with low boost. and hit full boost at like high 2000`s rpm which is what we ran for a while.
 
M

mprice501

New Member
Adam L said:
I've just taken my gearbox off my engine, r.e my other thread about gear selection. The release bearing was on properly, but at the bottom of the casising I had this just sitting there



It looks like some sort of retaining clip to me, but I haven't got a clue how to fit it. Anyone know what it is and how to fit it?
Click to expand...

lol erm yeah my clutch is not working and i cant see this retaining clip on my clutch fork either when i pull the gaiter off, looks like i will have to get my gearbox off to fix it, anyone know any pulsar friendly garages around Hertford?
 
Paul20

Paul20

Member
i think they are only after the dimensions for size and weight etc so they can get an idea of how much material is required so they can give a better idea of cost. if they were to go ahead and do some casts then they would need a gearbox anyway
 
vss irvine

vss irvine

Well-Known Member
this is daft, if your going rwd drive, use the rwd sr20det variant. its already on coilpacks, the mounts are in the correct place, youll get the proper gearbox aswell!

the oil pick up in the pulsar sump is at the 'front' of the engine, so if you turn it 90 degrees in the engine bay, when you accelerate, theres a chance your going to starve the engine of oil. the 54c engine was built to be transverse mounted ie, fwd/awd.
 
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