What have you done with your pulsar today?
- Thread starter Johnny nofear
- Start date
Richard_Sideways
Active Member
Cleared off the 'Red Shelf', dusted the old girl down and woke her up from her winter siesta for a run to Guildford for the eldests rugby tournament.
Took the chance to update the To-Do list too:
Get the wee bit of rot on the tailgate sorted
Replace or refurb the gas struts on same
fix the poxy handbrake gaiter
sort out whatevers gone weird in the switch for the passenger window
Get all the grime off the enginebay
New tyres on the competition wheels
and haul the old girl over to see Ed sometime, get a proper 'state of the nation' done and maybe new injectors and a fresh map done.
Took the chance to update the To-Do list too:
Get the wee bit of rot on the tailgate sorted
Replace or refurb the gas struts on same
fix the poxy handbrake gaiter
sort out whatevers gone weird in the switch for the passenger window
Get all the grime off the enginebay
New tyres on the competition wheels
and haul the old girl over to see Ed sometime, get a proper 'state of the nation' done and maybe new injectors and a fresh map done.
Last edited:
johnny gtir
Well-Known Member
Prices vary massively depending on quality of work as well. Depends how much they cut out and weld in. Weather you have donar bits to weld in if req. sometimes decent welders can do great job cheap but body shop will always blame them and charge more. It’s finding someone good who can do the whole job at fair price. ( a lot of hours go in) see what others think but it’s £500 ish for outer arches so additional work alow another £300-500 but I am interested to see what others think
keastygtir
Well-Known Member
warpspeed will be able to give you an good idea of a typical senario
had a bit of a winter update:
power flex engine mounts all round,
new break servo fitted,
my Competition Clutch re padded thanks to the guys at Questmead,
custom made front and rear engine stabilisers from Brooks Racing Developments,
waxoyl underneath,
and the biggie a brand new Quaife gear-set,
this weekend hopefully but all that stuff back together and drive-able
power flex engine mounts all round,
new break servo fitted,
my Competition Clutch re padded thanks to the guys at Questmead,
custom made front and rear engine stabilisers from Brooks Racing Developments,
waxoyl underneath,
and the biggie a brand new Quaife gear-set,
this weekend hopefully but all that stuff back together and drive-able
Cathode
Active Member
After being financially raped over the last couple of months due to:
BMW E90 turbo blowing
DPF packing up
Starter motor packing up
2 new rear tyres
insurance/tax/mot
Auto gearbox reprogramming.
i'm a couple of ££££ lighter.
So, yesterday i finally found the time to take the SR20 gearbox off. Hoorah!! And i was surprised at how easy and light it was. Now i can really start stripping it down and buying parts. Yay!
BMW E90 turbo blowing
DPF packing up
Starter motor packing up
2 new rear tyres
insurance/tax/mot
Auto gearbox reprogramming.
i'm a couple of ££££ lighter.
So, yesterday i finally found the time to take the SR20 gearbox off. Hoorah!! And i was surprised at how easy and light it was. Now i can really start stripping it down and buying parts. Yay!
keastygtir
Well-Known Member
rear spoiler and under headlight trim fitted, all that left is the bumpers!
Ryan Wolfe
New Member
I just did this myself (replaced/rebuilt my RR inner tower/turret) and mine was REALLY bad. I had to remove the turret and then weld in patch panels where the turret itself was spot welded to, there was no good metal to even weld a new turret to.
I got a repair panel from Carz2uk, for about $50, but be forwarned, it is NOT the complete turret skin, it's only about the top 2/3rds of it and is designed to be butt welded to the bottom 1/3rd of your existing panel (usually they rust around the top of the turret, so hopefully you have something good to weld to). Also, the repair panels are for a 4/5 door sunny and don't quite line up right so there's a fair bit of metal work involved in getting them to fit right.
I've no idea what it would cost someone to have this done at a shop, but based on the work I did, I had roughly 25 hours of fabrication labor just in the metal work, not including and primer, paint or seam sealer work.
Cathode
Active Member
Yesterday, i took the head off the block, stripped parts / pipes off and took one of the pistons + con rod and shells out just to see what was what. A little blow by on piston 3, not much to write home about. What i was looking for was to see if they were standard or not. It read on the top 54C followed by 0.5. Anyone know what the 0.5 is referring to?
Bores looked really good, no scoring at all
Bores looked really good, no scoring at all
johnny gtir
Well-Known Member
0.5 is over sized from standard will be fitted on previous rebuild
Cathode
Active Member
Will do!
Listed loads of spare parts in the classified section yesterday...
Trying to clear a shelf ready for the next project.
Wanted to buy: A cherished number plate, will do a deal for one, let me know.
Jon
Next looking for a local trackday to try out my pulsar.....Had a misfire last competition, want to make sure its fixed.
Trying to clear a shelf ready for the next project.
Wanted to buy: A cherished number plate, will do a deal for one, let me know.
Jon
Next looking for a local trackday to try out my pulsar.....Had a misfire last competition, want to make sure its fixed.
