Raising the compression?

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chrism

New Member
Got the engine out and the gearbox off today. Removed tubby,clutch , flywheel etc.

Gonna start taking it apart on wednesday.

Do I need to remove the head to get the crankshaft out? Can I remove from the underside? I want to leave it in for regrinding as soon as.
 
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gordo

Guest
gearbox or clutch??

hi guys looking for some info? just recently i have heard a rumbling noise coming fromthe gearbox i think. only hear it when slowly pulling away tho. also when giving it the beans changing from 4th to 5th it crunches a little. does this sound like gearbox or clutch?

thanks
 
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youngsyp

Active Member
gordo said:
dont have a clue only had the car 4weeks.
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Get it changed, along with the transfer box fluid and rear diff fluid. I think the consensus is that Castrol Syntrax is the best all round fluid.

See how you get on with that.

Paul
 
olliecast

olliecast

Active Member
i went to millers gearbox fluid and it more or less sorted my 4th to 5th problem (still have to double clutch when giving it some though). rumbling sounds like a possible bearing going?
 
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pulsarboby

Guest
yes you can remove crank with head on but you will need to remove the timing chain from the bottom sprocket so will have to remove one of the cam sprockets to get enough freeplay in chain.
 
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pulsarboby

Guest
yes thought you were talking about front mount ic, lol
il pm you on there tomorrow
 
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chrism

New Member
I took my engine apart yesterday. The damage was a new conrod and hopefully a regrind of the crank. Shall I regrind all the bearing channels or can I just regrind the ones for the big end bearings?

Should I replace all the bearings? is it possible to reuse the main bearings as they are in good condition. Im not usually this tight but Im newly divorced and received the bill the other day. Looks like I´ll be cancelling my subscription to penthouse!
 
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pulsarboby

Guest
just get the 4 bigend journals ground if the mains are ok.
but if the rods damaged then i would assume the shell has spun, in which case you will be very fortunate if the shaft will take a grind (it maybe gone to far for that)

hope you marked the main bearing shells as they will need to go back in there correct houses! if not then buy a new set of mains
 
Davie Houston

Davie Houston

Member
Remove oil cap and revs fall !!!

Basically when you drive the car from cold, it runs fine, but once its warm and you give it some beans, the car feels as if its holding back when you floor it, but it still boosts but its as if your farting into it but it still boosts the Bar of boost.

So was having a look about the day for an air/vacuum leak but nothing obvious.

While it was running, i loosend the oil filler cap and the revs fell.
Is this normal for these engines?
How does the oil breather system work on these?

Going to give it a compression check in the morning way all the plugs in, oil cap open and water system open just to check for leaks into all areas of the engine.
And see what i get from their.

Any help or advice would be gratefull

Cheers in advance

davie
 
stevepudney

stevepudney

GTiROC CHAIRMAN
Staff member
While it was running, i loosend the oil filler cap and the revs fell.
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the oil breather system..........................now theres a long winded topic

basically you'll notice that there are 2 breather pipes coming off the rocker cover, a T that exits at the same end as the distributor and another at the opposite end which is controlled via the PCV valve fitted into the rocker cover, both these outlets are controlled by vacuum. On the standard car one side of the "T" piece is plumbed into the main air inlet, this vacuum helps to draw oil vapour/blow by gasses from the crankcase and rocker cover back into the inlet tract to mix with the fresh inlet air and burned (recycled lol), the other side of the "T" is routed to a standard catch tank (black box fitted top/front of engine block) and from there directly back into the front of the crankcase.




The other outlet which is controlled via the PCV valve is another vacuum, the pipe conected to the PCV eventually splits into 4 and connects to each one of the throttle bodies.

below is an extract from another thread which explains how the PCV valve works.

The blowby vapors that end up in an engine’s crankcase contain moisture as well as combustion byproducts and unburned fuel vapors. The crankcase is sealed to prevent the escape of these gases into the atmosphere, but the vapors must be removed to prevent oil contamination that leads to sludge formation. The positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system siphons these vapors from the crankcase and routes them into the intake manifold so they can be reburned in the engine.

The main component in the PCV system is the PCV valve, which is usually located in the valve cover. A hose connects the PCV valve to the intake manifold. A second hose between the air cleaner and crankcase or other valve cover (V6 or V8 applications) provides fresh air to help flush the vapors out of the crankcase. Some engines have a separate air filter for the PCV breather hose located inside the air cleaner.

The PCV valve is a spring-loaded valve with a specific orifice size designed to restrict the amount of air that’s siphoned from the crankcase into the intake manifold. This is necessary because air drawn through the valve from the crankcase has a leaning effect on the fuel mixture much the same as a vacuum leak. So air flow through the valve must be controlled within certain limits. At idle, air flow is reduced because little blowby is produced. When the engine is cruising and vacuum is high, airflow through the PCV valve is at a maximum to purge the blowby vapors from the crankcase.

It’s important to note that PCV valves are sized for specific engine applications. The wrong PCV valve for an application can flow too much or too little air causing driveability problems. Varnish deposits can clog the valve, so replacement for preventative maintenance is recommended (every 50,000 miles usually).

Not all engines have PCV valves. Some (like Ford Escort, GM FWD cars with the Quad Four engine, etc.) ventilate the crankcase with a small breather hose and calibrated orifice. There is no spring-loaded PCV valve. On these applications, no maintenance is usually necessary.
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A few owners have removed the PCV valve altogether, blocked the breather outlet
and removed all the associated pipework as this PCV valve can be very temperamental and cause vacuum leaks, which in turn will cause irregular/high idle.

Hope that goes some way to answering your questions, if you do a search on the forum for PCV valve or oil catch tank you will find that this subject has been covered many, many times before.


Steve
 
Davie Houston

Davie Houston

Member
Cheers steve for the reply will have a gander about the engine and check the above pipework for leaks first.

Then will have a search for the PCV valve.

New to these engines so basically am pissin in the wind to start with.

Cheers again

davie
 
Davie Houston

Davie Houston

Member
Just a wee update.
My idle on the R was sitting at 1500 all the time, so today i removed the PCV setup and the car now idles perfectly at 1000 when warm and it drives so much better low down the rev range also!!!
Think i had a few perished rubbers in their some where!!!
 
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gunmetalgtir

New Member
Davie Houston said:
Basically when you drive the car from cold, it runs fine, but once its warm and you give it some beans, the car feels as if its holding back when you floor it, but it still boosts but its as if your farting into it but it still boosts the Bar of boost.
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Alright Davie, was good chatting to you on Saturday mate!

Have you done a fault code check?

Mr car was doing something similar to this when the DET sensor was fecked.

But my dump valve was also leaking so it could have been that to :lol:
 
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