Raising the compression?

antgtir

New Member
Cheers Paul.

Yes the coil could be another possibility, ill add it to the list lol:lol:

The Lambda sensor wasn't glaringly white so im not too concerned plus its running fine apart from this hesitation. To me, personally i think its an ignition problem but obviously ill keep searching the fuelling issues to.

The other day i tried to induce the problem (after id fitted the spare lambda sensor). I was able to do this in the usual rev range so that was the confirmation required for the lambda sensor test however about 10mins from home and without any effort, pulling out of a junction (as usual lol) the car bogged down and more aggressively burbled away as it struggled to raise the speed, after about 30seconds this dissappeared and never returned. Im in a way hoping the prob gets worse so it will maybe be more noticeable.

One check (already done but worth doing again) ill carry out will be the state of the plugs and leads again.

Ant.
 

youngsyp

Active Member
antgtir said:
I was able to do this in the usual rev range so that was the confirmation required for the lambda sensor test however about 10mins from home and without any effort, pulling out of a junction (as usual lol) the car bogged down and more aggressively burbled away as it struggled to raise the speed, after about 30seconds this dissappeared and never returned. Im in a way hoping the prob gets worse so it will maybe be more noticeable.
If this was another symptom of the same problem, I'd be looking for a fuelling issue.

That's just from the experience I had, when my partially blocked fuel filter was giving me problems, after changing the plugs, leads and other ignition consumables.

Paul
 

PaulB

Member
Boby, Ive now got your shotpeened box fitted into my car :thumbsup:

Gaz was very kind in giving it to me for free as long as i fit mine in his. What are friends for eh 8)

Hopefully itl last a while, Im lookin at a track day in the summer when im back from work, and hoping it wont spit its @rse !
 
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pulsarboby

Guest
i know i spoke to gaz the other day as he wanted some more parts for his car!
that was very good of him to do that for you, he is deffo a good mate!

the box is very nice paul, and very precise slick gearchange. im sure it wont let you down providing you dont abuse it too harshly!

i only went for the quaife, as my car will be running circa of 400bhp+ and seeing as il be racing it, i dont think that box would have been upto the job tbh and the last thing i need is the box giving up during a race and having the constant aggro of changing them all the time, so im hoping the quaife will measure up ok! for 2k think il cry if that breaks:lol:
 
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P-man

Guest
5th gear crunching

Hey guys i've just got myself a J reg pulsar with 66k on the clock and found that 5th gear is crunching no matter how slow/fast you change or however slow/fast you're going along. The clutch feels odd too, the further you push it the harder it gets almost as if it's stretching (i know it's hydraulic not cable!!) and there is a creaking noise when you push it down coming from the gearbox. It has a pedal box bracket in the footwell which rules that out. Oh and the gear stick sits left and doesn't spring back into the middle from 1st or 2nd, can anybody help? feel like i've been sold a lemon.:doh:
 
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pulsarboby

Guest
you may have a dodgy selector in box, clutch feeling heavy could be due to a paddle clutch being fitted!
 
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P-man

Guest
I've got no receipts for a clutch and i believe it's running standard boost although it does have a GRID boost controller fitted but it's set to min.
 
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fulingbusen

Guest
Transmission trouble (appears as slipping clutch, happens every now and then)

My car have a problem that comes and goes. It behaves as if the clutch is slipping (only propels forward about 10%) but the clutch is ok.

The car drives fine and then all of a sudden it starts to "slip" The engine revs fine but the car only propels forward at a very slow pace. If I then stop revving and engage in 1st gear again it sometimes starts to work again. There is a mechanical noise during the "slipping" and it can appear in every gear.

I´m suspecting the centre diff as it is viscous (hence the 10% part) but then again, doesn´t the centre diff only distribute the tourque between front and rear diffs making it incapable of stealing tourque? If so, could it be that something in the front or rear axle is spinning freely forcing the centre diff to distribute some tourque to the opposite axle (this tourque propels the car forward appr. 10 %)

Does anyone have any experience with a similar problem?
 

snoon

New Member
Mine has crunched in to 5th for 2 years. Well it would crunch if I didn't double clutch!!

I'm sure it can be fixed for a price, but as with all things GTi-R if your fixing you might as well upgrade. Thats my plan anyway.
 

youngsyp

Active Member
Have a go at bleeding the clutch slave and master cylinder. Whilst you're doing it, check to make sure the hose and each cylinder aren't leaking at all.
Once you've ruled them out, post back up.

Oh, and my 5th gear started to crunch, when shifting to it at high speed, when the clutch was changed and all the fluids. I then changed the fluids again, for Silkolene Syn 5, and that cured it.
I don't think it was the quality of the fluid, so muc as the amount or fluid. I.e. the gearbox wasn't filled as much as it should have been.

As for the gear lever, the return spring may just have gone arye ?!

Paul
 

gtirx2

Active Member
5th gear could also be a worn syncro or more likely worn dog teeth on the gear and selector ring if it crunching that bad.
 

Rishi

Still waiting on some shims!
- Clutch Pedal may need adjusting.. You may not be getting enough travel to fully disengage the clutch..


- Bent Selector Fork


- Worn Baulk Ring is a likely candidate!
 
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fulingbusen

Guest
I'm hijacking this thread as I'm suspecting that one of my diffs are not working properly.

My car behaves as if the clutch is slipping (only propels forward about 10%) but the clutch is ok.

The car drives fine and then all of a sudden it starts to "slip" The engine revs fine but the car only propels forward at a very slow pace. If I then stop revving and engage in 1st gear again it sometimes starts to work again. There is a mechanical noise during the "slipping" and it can appear in every gear.

I´m suspecting the centre diff as it is viscous (hence the 10% part) but then again, doesn´t the centre diff only distribute the tourque between front and rear diffs making it incapable of stealing tourque? If so, could it be that something in the front or rear axle is spinning freely forcing the centre diff to distribute some tourque to the opposite axle (this tourque propels the car forward appr. 10 %)

Does anyone have any experience with a similar problem?
 

soin

New Member
well , its a low low time for me at the mo , the motor has been stripped down and every major part is fooked ...

head gasket blown in 4 places
3 out of 4 je forgees melted
bores scored
valve stuck
cams knackered
big ends and mains shot

oil pump thrashed

so all in all my R which owes me over £13k in reciepts over the last three years has been reduced to a pile of knackered engine parts

instead of 400 bhp from my brand new 3071 r ive got zilch , with the chance of the turbo being shagged too

engineers verdict is catastrophic oil pump failure.

the tuner i took the car to had it sent out for mapping as contrary to what i was told they dont map themselves , they have rollers but use other people for mapping .. whether in house or farmed out .. my R was farmed out .

the tuner i have my business with is suggesting blame lies with the other tuner who took the car for mapping , saying the engine was overheated on the dyno ..

ive been and talked today in great length with the mappers and their version of events sounds all above board .. the owner has been up to view my engine and says he s never seen an oil pump so bad and hes sure they damage was caused by contaminents of some sort as the oil pump gears are chewed up pretty bad ..

i then went on up to the tuner who have rebuilt the motor and demanded to know what the outcome will be .. the wriggling then started , refering to the oil pump as not their liabilty , they hav said that they are going to sort it in as many words but i aint holding my breath ,

looking back i can put these clues into the equation ..

the car went in back in october for head gasket after id overheated it briefly ( main hose went on motorway )..
i asked them to pull the pistons to check the bottom end for damage bores, rings, bearings etc .. the all clear came back and the block needed just a slight re hone which was done

i got the car back and whilst waiting for the power fc to arrive was told to put some miles on the engine as it had been apart . the car ran fine but after about 60 miles whilst idling outside a mates house i heard and felt a knocking from the engine , a real heavy clunking for about 5 secs then it went .. the next day i went over and told the tuner who said " if it happens again let us know but it should be alright " it never did ..

the car then did a steady motorway trip about 500 miles in one day , it was around this time i noticed a drop in overall oil pressure , bit slower to pressure up on cold start up to about 5-6 as opposed to over 7 normally , then once warmed would sit at a little below 2 and on the move around three maximium , even at high revs ..

once again mentioned this to the tuner who told me it was fine

i know my oil pump was fine when they got the motor in the first place as the engine had ran fine for a few years with good oil pressure ..

im in a really low state at the mo , not sure whats going to happen cant believe i was moments away from my dream 400 bhp R and now the cars in as many bits as possible engine wise and i have no definate word on whats going on


where do i stand ?
 
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Odin

Guest
Their seems to be a lot of damage for an oil pump failure, If the pump had gone the oil pressure light would of come on and you'd of stopped the car, I've also not really seen a complete pump failure because their isn't really a lot to go wrong, Only wear and tear which will reduce it's efficiency, It wont just stop pumping unless as in your case it appears that something has gone through the pump.

I'd try and get an independent engineer to take a look over the remains of your once very nice engine, Or your very badly built engine as maybe.

Rob
 
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pulsarboby

Guest
unfortunately they have you over a barrel between them.
since this whole thing started youve had nothing but trouble with stuff not being done correctly.

1) why was the cylinders and pistons not checked along with the oil pump when these parts were first fitted!
2) the head and block face should have been thoroughly checked over before head was replaced with new cometic gasket

its now a case of everyone blaming everyone else, which is bad news from your point of view.
if i were you i would go back to the people who invoiced YOU for the work as the blame (if any) ultimately lies with them, as the rr sessions were merely contracted out to another company, so its up to them to countersue the rr company if its deemed to be there fault (which i very much doubt) and even if it was you still have to prove it, which is very difficult, these people have answers and excuses for everything.
i genuinely feel sorry for you as ive been down this road recently and its very very frustrating! and tbh its a huge gamble in court and could end up costing you even more money. i would therefore swallow my losses and put it down to experience ie steer well clear of these tuner type people!

also car would not have driven 500 miles with a dodgy pump, imo something let go to cause debris to muller the pump and render it kaput. this could have been anything or anyone which has carried out work on this engine.
between all of them they have you backed into a corner im afraid, and there seems to be no way out.
 
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