the box says 70lbft with moly lube, man from arp said 80lbft, some engine builders have gone 90lbft.
i just find it odd that every other sr20 stud will bottom out in the block and is designed to do so. But then again, if the bottom of the stud doesn't engage any thread its not assisting in holding the head down, and when the arp stud is wound into the block it can go anywhere when you start torqueing the nut...
who knows where the blame lies with these failure, stud, poor gasket sealing, det causing head lift, could be any of them
i just find it odd that every other sr20 stud will bottom out in the block and is designed to do so. But then again, if the bottom of the stud doesn't engage any thread its not assisting in holding the head down, and when the arp stud is wound into the block it can go anywhere when you start torqueing the nut...
who knows where the blame lies with these failure, stud, poor gasket sealing, det causing head lift, could be any of them
kenan
South West Regional Rep
Standard ECU remap or just become a 1bar mong?
My car is near stock engine wise apart from:
Air filter
Exhaust
Was going to fit
Boost Controller
Fuel Pump
Spark Plugs
Now I would want to get the car checked when putting the boost upto 1bar to make sure it was all running ok. I was thinking I could get the stock ECU remapped as a getting the car set-up/checked would cost half the price of a remap so might as well give that a try. Is there any advantage to having the stock ecu remapped or with the mods I have is it overkill? could I pop the boost upto say 1.2?
Any help or obvious things I have missed would help
My car is near stock engine wise apart from:
Air filter
Exhaust
Was going to fit
Boost Controller
Fuel Pump
Spark Plugs
Now I would want to get the car checked when putting the boost upto 1bar to make sure it was all running ok. I was thinking I could get the stock ECU remapped as a getting the car set-up/checked would cost half the price of a remap so might as well give that a try. Is there any advantage to having the stock ecu remapped or with the mods I have is it overkill? could I pop the boost upto say 1.2?
Any help or obvious things I have missed would help
hi !
i was running a total standard car with a boost controller up to 1.4 bar.
boost was dropping to 1.2 at around 5500 rpm.
it was fine for over 50.000km. then i rebuild the engine - but engine was still fine.
only clutch went after around 30000km. car had 48000km when i got it.
i had iridium plugs installed - no other mods.
if you are interested i can offer you a doughterboard for your ecu.
its mapped for 550 injectors and up to 1.4 with all standard parts.
its the famous map from matt in australia.
i was running a total standard car with a boost controller up to 1.4 bar.
boost was dropping to 1.2 at around 5500 rpm.
it was fine for over 50.000km. then i rebuild the engine - but engine was still fine.
only clutch went after around 30000km. car had 48000km when i got it.
i had iridium plugs installed - no other mods.
if you are interested i can offer you a doughterboard for your ecu.
its mapped for 550 injectors and up to 1.4 with all standard parts.
its the famous map from matt in australia.
Last edited:
turbodaily
New Member
all down to having a good fueling setup at the end of the day. but like mark says, if the car is stock you will encounter probs along the way once you crank the boost up, generally the parts that have been on the car since factory ie clutch,brakes etc will show their age and will need replacing at some stage
kenan
South West Regional Rep
not worried about the clutch, brakes etc as I'm doing the brakes as we speak and the clutch is somthing I'm expecting not to last.
See what I was thinking is a remap is 350 if I fit the boost controller. If someone just checks the car for det etc thats going to cost me a good £100+ So I was wanting to know if the remap was worth the extra money as in if I could run more bost, gain more power as a result or would I be maxing out components etc.
Just trying to explain what I mean lol
See what I was thinking is a remap is 350 if I fit the boost controller. If someone just checks the car for det etc thats going to cost me a good £100+ So I was wanting to know if the remap was worth the extra money as in if I could run more bost, gain more power as a result or would I be maxing out components etc.
Just trying to explain what I mean lol
gtirjoey
Member
i know this is not an anwser but a question jus wondering wat sought of boost i could run max i got apexi power fc, 550cc injectors, uprated fuel pump air filter exhaust, front mount , when i had turbo rebuilt they said they put thrust bearings in it and could now run 25psi but engine internals standard i am mechanic and prepared to keep fixing as bits go wrong here and there but wat would be the max boost i could run
hi !
i had absolutely no probs running up to 1.4 bar.
only thing was the clutch after around 30000km.
also my ecu was standard
after around 50000 km i decided to upgrade the injectors,fuel pump etc.
to get more power. i also got the dougterboard from austratlia then.
but finally i decided to install a gt3071 and it ended with a powerFC
but if you leave everything standard your dont need a remap.
to be save i would check AFR,EGT and knock. but it should be fine.
i had absolutely no probs running up to 1.4 bar.
only thing was the clutch after around 30000km.
also my ecu was standard
after around 50000 km i decided to upgrade the injectors,fuel pump etc.
to get more power. i also got the dougterboard from austratlia then.
but finally i decided to install a gt3071 and it ended with a powerFC
but if you leave everything standard your dont need a remap.
to be save i would check AFR,EGT and knock. but it should be fine.
turbodaily
New Member
on your spec id say you can run 1.4bar safely if you have the fueling setup spot on, (a t28 with 360 bearing wont really wanna run more than that anyway)
wouldnt really wanna go any higher than that on stock internals, i personally wouldnt wanna run over 1.2bar on stock pistons as the ringlands tend to fall apart. its hit and miss really, some peoples stock engines last ages running 1.4bar+, some dont..
wouldnt really wanna go any higher than that on stock internals, i personally wouldnt wanna run over 1.2bar on stock pistons as the ringlands tend to fall apart. its hit and miss really, some peoples stock engines last ages running 1.4bar+, some dont..
what a load of twaddle you lot sound like fookin mongs
people have run 400 bhp on standard internals for years!
if the fuelling is correct the engines are very strong as for gearbox mine has been running 400 bhp for a long time including the drag strip
it makes me sick when losers give advice which is less use than horse sh1t in a
kitchen
people have run 400 bhp on standard internals for years!
if the fuelling is correct the engines are very strong as for gearbox mine has been running 400 bhp for a long time including the drag strip
it makes me sick when losers give advice which is less use than horse sh1t in a
kitchen
turbodaily
New Member
kirko what spec are you running?
im saying that in a stock engine, ie stock internals,stock head gasket,stock turbo. you wouldnt wanna run more than 1.4bar.. NOT saying you cant get 400bhp out of a stock engine. thats a different question altogether mate. its about what you can run SAFELY..
im saying that in a stock engine, ie stock internals,stock head gasket,stock turbo. you wouldnt wanna run more than 1.4bar.. NOT saying you cant get 400bhp out of a stock engine. thats a different question altogether mate. its about what you can run SAFELY..
snoon
New Member
Dropping off boost when gears changed
The titles doesn't really explain very well..........
If I drive it hard and change through the gears with fast clutch release (as if racing or 1/4 mile), it seems to hesitate just for a short time before pushing me back into the seat. If i slip the clutch for a very very short time it's much better. It just doesn't seem to snap through the gears like previous cars I've had.
Do you think it will be the clutch, or gearbox/tranfer or what?
It's not a massive problem but I'm sure it's going to add to 1/4 mile times when I get back to the strip!
Any advise?
Cheers
Shaun
The titles doesn't really explain very well..........
If I drive it hard and change through the gears with fast clutch release (as if racing or 1/4 mile), it seems to hesitate just for a short time before pushing me back into the seat. If i slip the clutch for a very very short time it's much better. It just doesn't seem to snap through the gears like previous cars I've had.
Do you think it will be the clutch, or gearbox/tranfer or what?
It's not a massive problem but I'm sure it's going to add to 1/4 mile times when I get back to the strip!
Any advise?
Cheers
Shaun
