Andy chan's engine problems - please help.........

E

Edd

Guest
Right andy can't get online but rang me and has some engine problems....

The engine runs but it is pinking badly on idle...

it is also making bad knocking noise....

he has a nissan technician with him who has looked down the spark plug holes and there is oil coated on all of the pistons....

when number one lead is removed when engine running the bad knocking goes indicating a problem on number 1 cylinder....


this is a freshly built engine, he's been told it needs stripping down to find out what's wrong with it.

Any ideas opinions urgently?!

thanks :D
 
Fast Guy

Fast Guy

Moderators
Staff member
Has the engine run right at all since they got it going?
Has he checked the ignition timing on that cylinder compared to the others, incase there's a stray spark or something :?
Compression test just incase :cry:

Valve timing on that cylinder not right? (shims incorrect?)

Does the pinking go as well?
 
Fast Guy

Fast Guy

Moderators
Staff member
Is it smoking when running? Assuming it's oil on the pistons, was the block bored to fit the pistons and not just bored to the size stated on the pistons?
It may be worth dropping the sump just to make sure nothing obvious is amiss like something loose :oops:
 
G

geetee

Active Member
does the pinking go when you remove lead 2 3 or 4?

he has a nissan technician with him who has looked down the spark plug holes
Click to expand...
:lol: :lol: :lol:

Always helps. :shock:

All your description says is that if you remove one HT lead the knocking noise stops. Is this just if you remove the HT for cyl 1 or for any other??

I would first suspect cam timing on this limited info.

Ta
Cheers
GeeTee 8)
 
E

Edd

Guest
Sorry for the limited info but i got one phone call off him and that's all i can remember :lol: :oops:
will get more info tomorrow off him to help.

The technician :roll: did say when leads 2-3-4 were removed the knocking was still there, only went when one was moved, also said knocking was definitely coming from bottom end.

Andy also said that when engine was built the engine builder said one of the shells didnt fit but somehow managed to get it to fit later on :? could this cause the bottom end rattle?
 
G

geetee

Active Member
that when engine was built the engine builder said one of the shells didnt fit but somehow managed to get it to fit later
Click to expand...
No no no - that's not going to be a problem at all. They used a hammer and a Dremmel to get it in - then it was fine. :shock:

But don't jump to conclusions - there's plenty of other culprits for this yet.

Cheers
GeeTee 8)
 
G

geetee

Active Member
Is it a pinking noise or a knocking noise???? or both????

Couldn't he hold the phone to the car so you could describe it??

:lol: :lol: :lol:
 
W

Websnowbo

New Member
Get it stripped.............

It has obviously a problem, running it isnt going to cure fcuk all! Whip the head and sump off and get the bore clearance checked, head cheaked, rings etc.

No point in prolonging it any more.
 
G

geetee

Active Member
bollox websnowbo...

you may well be right. But this a rebuilt lump going into a car so why suspect it's built wrong straight off??

Always do the basics first.. then u have more to crucify the builders with. If you whip the motor apart at the first hint of trouble then you're in shaft me up the ass street.

Get ur shit straight and prove it's straight - then u can royally fuk em. Otherwise you end up in a tit for tat / ping pong game which goes nowhere.

U r better off finding the fault and getting ratified by a 'professional' then going for the builder's jugular if required!

Cheers
GeeTee 8)
 
J

Jobi Joba

Member
First,let's think about what we know:there's a bad noise.And when HT lead of cylinder 1 is removed,the noise disappears.

So,when there is no explosion on cylinder 1 (thus,no stress on internals of cylinder 1),the noise is turned off.

With or without explosion,the stress on valve train remains the same.So we can say it doesn't come from the valvetrain.

Now,I assume that the more the engine is revved,the faster the noise goes.So,do a simple test,called the test of the pavement.Put the car in front of a pavement which is about 20cm higher than the road and just make the front of the engine climb the pavement.When doing this,u gonna put more stress on internals,especialy the bottom end.If the noise becomes louder,sorry,but ur engine is telling u that it's probably a conrod bearing...

U can also do this test by trying to make the car go forward in 1st gear with handbrake on.Same result.

If it's really the bearings of the first conrod,u're lucky enough cause it's easy to have access to this one by removing the sump.Then check the clearance is not out of limits.

But if u think this noise is only knock,check the spark plugs of the cylinder 1 and the CAS located in the dizzy...and ur HT leads of course.
 
W

Websnowbo

New Member
geetee said:
bollox websnowbo...

you may well be right. But this a rebuilt lump going into a car so why suspect it's built wrong straight off??)
Click to expand...
Because it has a knocking problem??!!
Because there is Oil on the piston crowns??!!
Because it is pinking??!!

Did you not read Edds post on the problem before you replied??!!!!!!!

I ran a successful engine reconditioning/tuning workshop for 3 yrs and had mechanics on the phone all the time asking about problems and the answer was it is impossible to tell you the exact problem over the phone without actually listening to the engine.

I suspected the 'pinking noise' is actually a small or big end but again impossible to tell over the internet.

You are right saying "Take it back to the tuner" but i think Andy did most of the work himself.
 
A

AZ STE

Guest
Id make sure that its firing correctly and the right lead is on the right cylinder.I had this happen to me the distributer was 180 degs out so fired at the wrong time sounded like the engine was knocking.Have the cams been timed up correctly also?
 
T

turblio

New Member
If he has used gapless rings these need to go in an engine that has had a
rebore and been honed fully as they tend to take longer to bed in than normal, but the oil on top of the pistons could be from valve stem oil seals
I would suggest a compression test and leak down test to rule out these
possibilities
Frank
 
Mr GTiR

Mr GTiR

New Member
found out some more now..... 2 spark plugs were dead and as a result only 2 pistons firing. this could explain why there is oil getting into the pistons as if the 2 not firing are cold as the block expands then oil will leak through.

The knocking is still there and is prob as a result of only 2 pistons firing :cry:

Did a compression test and 123 are 130 while number 4 is down at 110.

any thoughts?
 
coxie

coxie

New Member
how come there is such a difference in compression on what is supposed to be a freshly rebuilt engine from top to bottom. :? :?:
 
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