skiddusmarkus
Active Member
Assuming my new downpipe follows the same run as the Mongoose then it should be OK on a Cusco one(I have that)as there was an inch or so clearance.
A
AZ STE
Guest
Hi mate ,
Ive got everything fitted on your list inc cusco 4 point but you will have a slight clearance issue but this can be overcome.
Ive got everything fitted on your list inc cusco 4 point but you will have a slight clearance issue but this can be overcome.
C
Crazy
Guest
How do you overcome the clearance issue :?: :?
skiddusmarkus
Active Member
The downpipe can be fettled about.The amount of different positions I've seen Mongoose tailpipes sticking out of the back is unreal.
A
ard1ey
Guest
I think the 3" downpipe problem is on the Cusco brace, the Whiteline one was designed around a 3" exhaust (according to the Yahoo group) which is why it hangs so low.
My Whiteline one's off at the moment until I can raise the front of the car a bit, as it catches everything - kerbs if you park 2 up 2 down, the road if both front wheels hit a dip, the road if you hammer the brake.... :shock:
My Whiteline one's off at the moment until I can raise the front of the car a bit, as it catches everything - kerbs if you park 2 up 2 down, the road if both front wheels hit a dip, the road if you hammer the brake.... :shock:
L
lead
Guest
Lots of good advice here,nice! 
Another suspension question:
What is the difference between Tein`s with upper mounts and the ones without? I see that the Tein`s without upper mounts are only about 200£ more than Koni`s with whiteline springs. Are the Tein`s without the upper mounts worth the extra 200£?? :?:
Another suspension question:What is the difference between Tein`s with upper mounts and the ones without? I see that the Tein`s without upper mounts are only about 200£ more than Koni`s with whiteline springs. Are the Tein`s without the upper mounts worth the extra 200£?? :?:
A
ard1ey
Guest
Upper mounts mean solid rose joint type things. They locate the strut better and allow you to adjust the camber from above, but some people say they make ride a bit hard and crashy :? .
If its Tein coilovers you're talking about, I'd go for them - they give far more adjustment possibilities. I have the Koni/Whiteline's you're considering, and I'll be changing to coilovers next year to sort out the excessive low-ness of the front of my car.
If its Tein coilovers you're talking about, I'd go for them - they give far more adjustment possibilities. I have the Koni/Whiteline's you're considering, and I'll be changing to coilovers next year to sort out the excessive low-ness of the front of my car.
Koni have always made good shocks and as ac reasonable setup, these with a set of springs (not necessarily whiteline) will make a good compromise between performance per buck
However, If you are going to start playing with camber, either fix it with new crash bolts (not sure if an option for the R) or use adjustable top mounts.
Adjustable top mounts are a good piece of kit and worth £50 a corner extra.
Coilovers i have mixed opinons on as they are completedly over engineered for a road car but would give a professional suspension engineer more to correctly setup your car.
You pays your money, you takes your choice.
Jim
However, If you are going to start playing with camber, either fix it with new crash bolts (not sure if an option for the R) or use adjustable top mounts.
Adjustable top mounts are a good piece of kit and worth £50 a corner extra.
Coilovers i have mixed opinons on as they are completedly over engineered for a road car but would give a professional suspension engineer more to correctly setup your car.
You pays your money, you takes your choice.
Jim
If your cars to low at the front look at changing the springsard1ey said:
unless of course you really want teins the way i see it is this,, you can have 4 billion point damping adjustment, ride height adjustment, camber etc, etc but once you've got it set up once are you ever likely to change it ????
i honestly cant see anyone changing the settings for different tracks, situations etc, etc maybe fiddle with the damping everynow and then but everytime you'd raise or lower the car it would really need to be set up again as you've then thrown sonething else out. I doubt anyones got there own laser alignment
or want to keep spending money for some one else to do it i'm planning on getting it all set up properly on the konis, camber bolts, adjustable rollbar, whiteline front bar, anti-lift kit, bumpsteer kit, everthing polybushed, front and rear braces etc, etc so i've got a good compromise and be done with it, then just get used to how it handles and learn to drive properly :lol:
Mikes still got the coil overs that came with it when he had it which we were planning on using for tracks but tbh i'll doubt i'll ever use them for the reasons mentioned above...
Nad
Active Member
U dont need lasers to set up a car. With a bit of time u can String it urself and that cost sweet FA, 2 poles, 2 bits of string and 4 stands. The camber can be done with a guage which costs a little more but would be a worthwhile investment. Toe is where the accuracy needs to be at, not so much the camber.