What have you done with your pulsar today?

Cathode

Active Member
Today I have fitted a brand spanking new alternator in the hope it would rectify an old problem that's come back. The poxy dash! It seems it won't idle correctly and the dash doesn't work until.... I Rev the car a little. Then the Rev counter works and does all other electrics and then idles correctly. Really weird. New alternator has not changed things. I tried cleaning up the old one, put it on and turn the key to ignition and the ignition/battery light came on, but that was it. Never came on after that once car was turned off and restarted. I've tried checking the fusable links, earths but no. Still the same. Can't understand why the poor idle and dash have a relationship. Rev it and it all starts working. Anyway, here's a pic of lovely new alternator. I bought it from somewhere in Devon I think it was. £110 delivered next day recorded. Just awesome.

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Eng1

Member
Seems you have a high resistance that causes a voltage drop .
You will need a voltmeter and wiring diagram :
The alternator feeds the battery to charge it and take over the supply that the battery provides once it is a higher voltage .
The battery feeds various circuits each has a feed wire and a common point .
The supply is split into those that have a constant supply and those that are switched via the ignition switch
Again these supplies are split to various circuits usually by the fuse box and individual fuses .
One of the feeds has a poor connection and dropping voltage hence revving the car is compensating by increasing the voltage of that supply .
Obviously the supply to the instruments is the first supply wire to check .
It can be a simple corroded fuse in the fuse box causing a poor connection volt drop .
Nice easy job to remove clean with sandpaper and refit both fuse and slot .
You can measure the voltage on each supply line and compare - they should be exactly the same .
You can check common points too where supplies split - usually a bolted connection .
That’s where you need the diagram and highlight the supply feeds - check each one with a meter and
Physically wiggle them if possible .
It can be things like the ignition switch internal contacts worn causing a bolts drop ,again a meter will show this .
It’s a one by one job but you will find it !!
 

Cathode

Active Member
Does anyone know what this is, what is does and what should it be connected to? It's on the inlet mani next to image.jpegthe fuel lines,

Many thanks in advance.
 

campbellju

Moderators
Staff member
I'm getting out in the car every couple of weeks to do some mapping and fettle issues whilst running the engine in. Done about 400 miles in total. Currently running at 1.1bar, using up to full throttle and 6000rpm.

Everything is starting to smooth out between it all. Starting to enjoy going out in it rather than worrying if I'll need a tow home.
 

stugtir300

Active Member
Aint done fuck all with it today,still sulking because of an arsehole mot tester that failed it on the silliest of things yesterday.front lower arms touching chassis,emissions on idle and noisy exhaust (mongoose),been going to the same garage for the last four years and the lower arms,exhaust and emissions at idle haven't changed.
 

stugtir300

Active Member
I've had a drink or two,so now pretty chilled,I brought a tip for the goose with a silencer on so will give that a go,got a few bits to do anyway,the tester must of been having a bad day.
 
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