What have you done with your pulsar today?

Cathode

Cathode

Active Member
Today I have fitted a brand spanking new alternator in the hope it would rectify an old problem that's come back. The poxy dash! It seems it won't idle correctly and the dash doesn't work until.... I Rev the car a little. Then the Rev counter works and does all other electrics and then idles correctly. Really weird. New alternator has not changed things. I tried cleaning up the old one, put it on and turn the key to ignition and the ignition/battery light came on, but that was it. Never came on after that once car was turned off and restarted. I've tried checking the fusable links, earths but no. Still the same. Can't understand why the poor idle and dash have a relationship. Rev it and it all starts working. Anyway, here's a pic of lovely new alternator. I bought it from somewhere in Devon I think it was. £110 delivered next day recorded. Just awesome.

image.jpeg

image.jpeg

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E

Eng1

Member
Seems you have a high resistance that causes a voltage drop .
You will need a voltmeter and wiring diagram :
The alternator feeds the battery to charge it and take over the supply that the battery provides once it is a higher voltage .
The battery feeds various circuits each has a feed wire and a common point .
The supply is split into those that have a constant supply and those that are switched via the ignition switch
Again these supplies are split to various circuits usually by the fuse box and individual fuses .
One of the feeds has a poor connection and dropping voltage hence revving the car is compensating by increasing the voltage of that supply .
Obviously the supply to the instruments is the first supply wire to check .
It can be a simple corroded fuse in the fuse box causing a poor connection volt drop .
Nice easy job to remove clean with sandpaper and refit both fuse and slot .
You can measure the voltage on each supply line and compare - they should be exactly the same .
You can check common points too where supplies split - usually a bolted connection .
That’s where you need the diagram and highlight the supply feeds - check each one with a meter and
Physically wiggle them if possible .
It can be things like the ignition switch internal contacts worn causing a bolts drop ,again a meter will show this .
It’s a one by one job but you will find it !!
 
Cathode

Cathode

Active Member
Does anyone know what this is, what is does and what should it be connected to? It's on the inlet mani next to image.jpegthe fuel lines,

Many thanks in advance.
 
campbellju

campbellju

Moderators
Staff member
I'm getting out in the car every couple of weeks to do some mapping and fettle issues whilst running the engine in. Done about 400 miles in total. Currently running at 1.1bar, using up to full throttle and 6000rpm.

Everything is starting to smooth out between it all. Starting to enjoy going out in it rather than worrying if I'll need a tow home.
 
stugtir300

stugtir300

Active Member
Aint done fuck all with it today,still sulking because of an arsehole mot tester that failed it on the silliest of things yesterday.front lower arms touching chassis,emissions on idle and noisy exhaust (mongoose),been going to the same garage for the last four years and the lower arms,exhaust and emissions at idle haven't changed.
 
J

Jon Olds

Well-Known Member
Fitting a silenced decat got my mongoose past the MSUK noise tests every time rallying for knocking on 10 years. Best mod ever
Jon
 
stugtir300

stugtir300

Active Member
I've had a drink or two,so now pretty chilled,I brought a tip for the goose with a silencer on so will give that a go,got a few bits to do anyway,the tester must of been having a bad day.
 
M

MarkTurbo

Well-Known Member
Havent done much to my car but I have been sorting through all my spares and moved the last few bits from the lock up I had back to my house.

I've collected a lot of spares over the years :oops:

20220219_174825.jpg
 
Cathode

Cathode

Active Member
not today but a few days ago, i took out the poxy good for nothing turbo timer as it was draining my battery. Took off the blitz boost controller too.
 
campbellju

campbellju

Moderators
Staff member
Good news. Revised my breather system so the crank case has its own separate feed to the catch can from the head, unblocked the PCV valve and ran a separate breather again to the catch can. Total of 3 breather pipes and finally the oil smoke being pushed through the turbo on overrun has stopped.
More good news, mapping and engine all smoothing out. Mapped to 1.4bar at 6600rpm
 
campbellju

campbellju

Moderators
Staff member
Bad news. On the drive back, did a quick pull in 1st/2nd for the map, went into 3rd but didn't go in, went into 5th and was locked in there. Had to get towed home. Back in the garage again. Will need to drop the box as something has failed. Probably need to find some patience first.
 
fubar andy

fubar andy

Moderator & N/W Rep
Staff member
campbellju said:
Bad news. On the drive back, did a quick pull in 1st/2nd for the map, went into 3rd but didn't go in, went into 5th and was locked in there. Had to get towed home. Back in the garage again. Will need to drop the box as something has failed. Probably need to find some patience first.
Click to expand...
Maybe hit the casing with a hammer 1st see if it unlocked like mine did?
 
campbellju

campbellju

Moderators
Staff member
I've been looking seriously at pulsar turbos, China copy of garret but can't find any significant concerns online. Apparently the cores are made in the same place? Most reviews praise them for unexpected quality. £500 for a gtx2, not worth worrying about a rebuild
 
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