weight saving tip
- Thread starter DownunderGTiR
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Boooooost
Member
I was thinking about this the other day as i've stripped out my car (sound proofing still to do) and was thinking about getting a fibreglass hatch and plexiglass windows. The car is already nose heavy so it may not be so beneficial.MarkTurbo said:
I've put my battery in the boot but am thinking of moving it behind the passenger seat to keep the weight lower.
You could use an electric power steering pump and mount this in the rear which would move weight to the rear and also would be one less thing for the engine to drive?
If you had a 6 point cage I know you'd be adding weight but am I right in thinking the bulk of this would be towards the rear? Or would the door bars even it out.
That seems to be the problem with the GTiR, all the easy weight that can be removed, is in the boot !MarkTurbo said:
The only items that I can think of, to move to the boot are the battery (as already mentioned) and the washer bottle.
I guess just try and remove anything in front of the front wheels. Air con, tow hook(s), put a catch tank at the back of the engine bay. Move expansion tank back.....
Boooooost
Member
Fitting a cf or fibreglass bonnet is an easy way to save some weight over the front, if you really wanted to you could move the rad and fans to the rear like the Audi group B cars used to but it would be a lot of effort. Has anyone corner weighted their car to see where the weight is front to rear?
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pulsarboby
Guest
just read this thread:shock:
why bother getting a drill out etc to save a few grams as 95% of your cars will never ever see a track or circuit
whats the point in chopping a roadcar to bits to save a few pound in weight?
can understand if your gonna race the car but cant see the point other than that:roll:
and from what ive seen (myself included) theres some heavy weight guys driving these motors, go on a diet for fcuk sake and get rid of your big fat beer guts then you will save a huge amount of weight! far better than drilling holes in bits of metal etc:der:
and you will be fitter and may live a little longer for your troubles too:lol: :lol:
why bother getting a drill out etc to save a few grams as 95% of your cars will never ever see a track or circuit
whats the point in chopping a roadcar to bits to save a few pound in weight?
can understand if your gonna race the car but cant see the point other than that:roll:
and from what ive seen (myself included) theres some heavy weight guys driving these motors, go on a diet for fcuk sake and get rid of your big fat beer guts then you will save a huge amount of weight! far better than drilling holes in bits of metal etc:der:
and you will be fitter and may live a little longer for your troubles too:lol: :lol:
Thats not far off 50/50, i reckon there must be way more than that at the front of the car :?Fast Guy said:
I really cant think of that much that could be removed from the front of the car and added to the rear that would make a noticable differance :doh:
Just have to put a few breeze blocks in the boot i reckon to even it up a bit :lol:
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pulsarboby
Guest
think your forgetting how much that rear subframe assembly weighs, fooking heavy!!
add to that a full fuel tank, spare wheel, standard exhaust and all the other bits in a standard car like seats parcel shelf, heavy tailgate.
and i can well believe its a 58-42 split from front to rear
add to that a full fuel tank, spare wheel, standard exhaust and all the other bits in a standard car like seats parcel shelf, heavy tailgate.
and i can well believe its a 58-42 split from front to rear
I'm sure it was about 660kg over the front axle last time I weighed it at 1135kg.
The 70/30 Keiron pointed out was a mistake in the magazine it was printed in. That site has now gone, but if you did the maths yourself from the front/rear figures they showed, it was nearer 60/40.
The 70/30 Keiron pointed out was a mistake in the magazine it was printed in. That site has now gone, but if you did the maths yourself from the front/rear figures they showed, it was nearer 60/40.
the 70/30 came from si's car, which weighed in at 1100ish at that time, it was stripped then but no grp doors or tailgate so is less than that now even with the cage. A standard car with seats and what-not is probably abit better balanced but i dont see it being 60/40, certainly not with a driver sat in the front seat, a full tank would help balance it out but theres so much weight hanging out over the front and next to nothing over the back wheels.
the rear subframe doesn't weigh that much, you can pick the whole lot up, diff and driveshafts on their own, im yet to meet anyone that picks the engine, box, tf and shafts up and lugs that about :lol:
with my aims for the car its suits me with the weight being up the front tbh
the rear subframe doesn't weigh that much, you can pick the whole lot up, diff and driveshafts on their own, im yet to meet anyone that picks the engine, box, tf and shafts up and lugs that about :lol:
with my aims for the car its suits me with the weight being up the front tbh
Ahh. I used to look at a Gtir site with alot of mag scans on there and one of them (CCC I think) had it as a 70/30 split, but like I said, if you did the maths yourself on thier figures, it was nearer 60/40. Mine was definately nearer what I said. (Without me sat in it and low fuel)
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pulsarboby
Guest
essy way to tell is get a big lump of wood and place it across chassis rails slightly towards the front being off centre, and jack up the whole car with a trolley jack, you could then move it slightly one way or the other untill it jacks up and is balanced with 4 wheels off the floor.
then measure the lengh of car between wheel tracks, and work out the split by how far the wood is towards the front.
there would be a mathematical formula for it if you were clever ie lengh x weight divided by a few inches one way or the other:lol:
dont forget the transfer box is underneath car roughly level with dashboard, so the weight is not totally nose heavy.
i think a fair test is without driver and with half a tank of fuel
then measure the lengh of car between wheel tracks, and work out the split by how far the wood is towards the front.
there would be a mathematical formula for it if you were clever ie lengh x weight divided by a few inches one way or the other:lol:
dont forget the transfer box is underneath car roughly level with dashboard, so the weight is not totally nose heavy.
i think a fair test is without driver and with half a tank of fuel
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pulsarboby
Guest
yeah thinking about it your right, the heavy part is in front of the bulkhead!
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pearl 476.5bhp
Guest
i agree
Stu666's car was corner weighted at 1259kg - 65/35 with driver, 1169Kg - 66/34 without.
Stu also had 771Kg over the front wheels with no driver. All our cars are different and as already pointed out the fuel tank can vary the weight balance a few percent
I estimate 65/35 - 1200kg without driver for my car which is as good a guess as any.
Stu also had 771Kg over the front wheels with no driver. All our cars are different and as already pointed out the fuel tank can vary the weight balance a few percent
I estimate 65/35 - 1200kg without driver for my car which is as good a guess as any.