Ti valve retainers

[memski]

Following on from Gti-R kids post....

When going for wild cams, how important is it to upgrade the retainers? Is it essential only with Jun cams?

I understand the springs are best replaced for higher rpm reliability to prevent float, but what about the retainers (would it be ok to omit them if going for uprated cams and springs), any takers?

 

[memski]

Fok, just found out on the jun webby that you have to use their valve springs and retainers with their cams

 

[GINGA]

Depends how lucky your feeling :shock:
Though if iirc Bruce Spence is using standard springs and maybe retainers on his beast with Jun cams :?: so you could always drop him a mail

 

[memski]

hehe doubt I will be as lucky as you ginga Still just food for thought

 

[Sirnixalot]

It reduces the reciprocating mass of the valve assembly so they react to the cam lobes profile quicker.

 

[GINGA]

Thats done it then, i'm now doomed :evil: :lol: though tbh I think i'm going to go the retainer and maybe spring route as its always playing on my mind

 

[JU5TY]

Ive got the JUN double vavle springs and titainum retainers.

There loveeeeeeeeeeeely!

Really expensive tho...

 

[Sirnixalot]

too bad the tome ones can take more lift you show off

 

[Hkondakci]

Memski kardash everything cool matey

The Ti retainers are very much needed when using JUN cams, along side their double springs too. But when upping the cams it's always wise to check the rocker arms and retainers since these are parts that wear a lot in the head; also lighter and stronger retainers will be very good for longevity of engine when revving hard, and our R engine revs hard from factory spec.

cheers
habib

 

[GTI-R Kid]

Habib you bring up another interesting point - rocker arm stoppers.

Is there any difference between those intended for an SR20 engine and those for a GTI-R engine?

 

[Nad]

Rocker arm stoppers need u to mod the rocker cover anyway so would think they are the same on either.

Yeah Tomei 8) lift.

Habib was on about the rocker arm itself may be worn so u wanna check that. I am sticking with the standard retainer spec with double spring as mine wont be revving too high anyway, power will be down the other end

Nad

 

[memski]

Thanks for the replies guys, good point about the rocker arm habib abi I will have to research this a bit further

 

[GTI-R Kid]

So for a good reliable head with power/torque, revability and thats not going to self-destruct, what are we looking at?

Cams
Valve springs
Valve retainers
Valve guides :?:
Rocker arm stopper
Check rocker arm condition
Port & polish
De-coke
Vernier pulley's
New head studs/bolts
New shims
4-angle valve seats :?:

Seems like a long list just for the head.

 

[memski]

.... Or just chuck in some high lift cams like Ginga did and worry about it later (hehe sorry Ging ).

 

[Hkondakci]

That's a good possibility Memski dost Don't replace it, but when it's broke :lol:

GTi-R kid: The RNN14 SR20 doesn't need rocker arms stoppers, since we don't have hydraulic lifters, bu solid ones. THe rocker arms can keep up with the cam speeds a will not flood are drift even on revs above 8000rpm, ofcourse with right parts.

If you like to make high revs then turning to stronger and lighter retainers isn't a luxory.

Valve guides can be changed to bronze items if the original channels are worn out, you can also change the the valve-seats in the head with beryllium copper alloy rings For extra heat conductivity and strenght. But these are for hard-core tuners Tomei offer these both. JUN also offer valve guides for our RNN14 SR20 engine.

rgds
habib

 

[GTI-R Kid]

Thanks for the info Habib. 8)

 

[Hkondakci]

you're welcome Rob 8)

rgds
habib

 

[memski]

And whilst we have you here Habibski dost 8) The tomei cams seem to be the one to go for with as high as 12.5mm lift, but surely there's more to a cam than the lift figure, otherwise Jun wouldn't be selling their (more expensive) 10.8mm cams.... The higher the duration the later it comes on, and the higher the lift - hence more air taken in/power produced right?

How can we be sure we're getting a "good" cam for our engine/turbo setup? (Which cams do you have again btw? )

 

[Nad]

I went for a rocker arm stopper as I know of one person whose rocker arm kicked up and broke in an RNN14 SR20, and at £80 it be rude not to. Whatever angle cut valve seats are really only need on race engines, as are the bronze guide. BTW if u look at the cost of them u will soon forget about wanting to buy them.

I put a cam post up ages ago but we r trying to sort the archives out atm. To cut it short when building and engine, choose the cam first.

This decides all the characteristics of how the engine will produce its power. The head and turbo must then be matched to this. Leave the cam till last, like alot of people do and u will be left with a cam that tries to give the power low down when the turbo works up to high rpm or visa versa.

Nad

 

[Anonymous]

And whilst we have you here Habibski dost 8) The tomei cams seem to be the one to go for with as high as 12.5mm lift, but surely there's more to a cam than the lift figure, otherwise Jun wouldn't be selling their (more expensive) 10.8mm cams.... The higher the duration the later it comes on, and the higher the lift - hence more air taken in/power produced right?

How can we be sure we're getting a "good" cam for our engine/turbo setup? (Which cams do you have again btw? )

don`t forget that piper do the max lift cams as well and probably for less than tomei or jun.
length of duration has a fair bit to do with cam choice as well.duration and lift seems to dictate how lumpy an idle and how high your idle speed will be.i seem to be stuck with a 1500 rpm idle at the moment but we`re still trying to map it downwards.