Removing the thermostat

K

KrissJ

Guest
How do I do it and is it difficult? I've doen a search and can't find anything.

Bear in mind I'm a bit of a novice with engines (not even sure what the thermostat looks like or where exactly it is :oops: ) so would appreciate instructions to be detailed.

Big thanks to who ever can help :D
 
O

Odin

Guest
I did this yesterday matey it took all of 5 min's....

Just look at the left hand top of your engine from the front of the car beside the dizzy and you will see a cover with 3 bolts on it remove them and give it a little tap with a rubber mallet and it will pop off then just clean both surface's with a scraper put some new sealent on the cover after fitting your replacement state of cause and then bolt up. :wink:




rob
 
G

geetee

Active Member
I'm such a nob sometimes.

I thought you meant remove it completely - not replace it...

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
 
K

KrissJ

Guest
Cheers.

I actually did mean remove it completely (I've just had a new thermostat put on). My car's overheating at the moment and I've heard/been told that it often cures it if you take it off.

I was told this by a mechanic at a nissan dealer who said he'd done it as well on his R5 turbo and it helped no end. I've also seen quite afew people on here saying they've done it and it cured overheating probs.

Just wondered how it was done and if I needed any adaptors etc. to join pipes up once it was off.
 
M

MORRISMINOR GTI-R

Guest
nope, just take it out and it will run fine. take off the bottom rad hose where it goes into the engine and take out the 3 12mm bolts
 
G

GINGA

Active Member
If you've got overheating problems with the thermostat fitted you've either got a duff stat or something else is wrong and removing the stat completely is only a temp fix to a bigger problem you'll be better off finding and fixing the real problem before things get worse :(
The thermostat is there to help the engine warm up to running temp as quickly as possible and keep the engine running at optimum running temp so as to prevent excess engine wear etc
Removing the stat will mean the engine will never run at its correct operating temp and will take ages to reach (if at all) the correct temp :(
Your problem could just be that you haven't bled the system after fitting the new stat which is done by removing the 10mm bolt in the top of the stat housing until coolant comes out of it while filling the rad (not bottle) up :wink:
 
J

jiw

Guest
Off topic i know, has any1 ever got away with not bleeding the system after having the engine out?, i know i did :?
 
K

KrissJ

Guest
Cheers :D

Yeah, I did want to find the main problem but thought in the mean time it could stop the engine gettin too hot.

It was a mechanic, not me, that replaced the stat and since then I've taken the rad off myself and given it a good clean, outside and in, then replaced it and bled the system properly followin instructions from the 'how to' section. If I have bled it, how would I then know if there was an air lock, and if there is how do I get rid of it?

Must admit, I'm gettin a little confused about this overheating :?
 
G

gtir_john

New Member
check your top and bottom rad hoses, the top should be hot and the bottom should be cooler, if the bottom one or top is cold then u have an air lock.
 
G

geetee

Active Member
Off topic i know, has any1 ever got away with not bleeding the system after having the engine out?, i know i did
Click to expand...
Tried bleeding mine after draining and refilling but no water came out of the bleed hole.

I just let it idle for a while, then the coolant started boiling through the header tank. Turned it off and as it cooled it sucked the contents of the header tank into the system. Topped up the header tank and it's been fine.

Probably not advisable to drive it anywhere though.

Cheers
GeeTee 8) [/quote]
 
K

KrissJ

Guest
I'll leave it on then :oops:

Neither of the pipes are cold, they both get hot. The system's been drained and bled 3 times in the last few weeks and I'll be doing it again today when I drain the rad flush out so surely it can't be an air lock everytime :?

I thought you were supposed to open the bleed hole when the ignition is off?
 
G

geetee

Active Member
Yes it should be bled with the engine off and cold - AFAIK.

Definitely not advisable to loosen that whilst the engine is hot... unless you want an exocet bolt embedded in your face followed by a blast of super heated steam to give you a face peel. :lol:

Cheers
GeeTee 8)
 
K

KrissJ

Guest
Yeah, I went to my car the other day to see if the coolant had gone down at all and so removed the rad cap, idiotically forgetting that I'd just been driving it :roll: I remembered just as I removed it but it was too late, clothes and face covered in hot coolant! (Thick get :lol: )

Also didn't realise petrol causes so much pressure when inside a sealed unit. I was cleaning my intercooler out the other day and had both ends capped off with cling film and elastic bands. I saw the cling film start to bulge out but thought, "aw, it'll be OK", and kept shaking. Oh dear, 5 secs after thinkin that I was covered in oily petrol and now have a very stained t-shirt and pair of jeans.

Made me laugh though :lol:
 
G

geetee

Active Member
Made me laugh though
Click to expand...
Shouldn't be laughing if it was unleaded. It contains quite a bit of Benzene which is carcinogenic through the skin.

Oh happy days. :lol:

Cheers
GeeTee 8)
 
K

KrissJ

Guest
Oh well. It was unleaded but there's not a lot I can do now so, heyho n all that :roll:
 
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