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Anonymous
Guest
I wasn't sure that there was a difference in types of LPG and I also realise that you'd need to get another tank.
What I initially thought of when I read about this idea was that you could possibly convert the car to LPG, increase the compression ratio and advance the timing a bit and leave everything else the same. Hopefully keeping the horse power roughly the same but increasing the torque and drivebility of the car.
It would be great if it did work and you had your own 'race fuel' for only 40p a litre!
Maybe it's just a pipe dream but I reakon it's worth looking in to regardless.
What I initially thought of when I read about this idea was that you could possibly convert the car to LPG, increase the compression ratio and advance the timing a bit and leave everything else the same. Hopefully keeping the horse power roughly the same but increasing the torque and drivebility of the car.
It would be great if it did work and you had your own 'race fuel' for only 40p a litre!
Maybe it's just a pipe dream but I reakon it's worth looking in to regardless.
Get it done son.........LPG can work well BUT..........it will wear your head out sooner. The valve guides will be the first to wear, will take a long time though.
Best bet is wip off the head, skim 1mm off it, get some forgies and machine a couple a niks in if the inlet valves are close and slap it back together with a 1mm gasket.
Best bet is wip off the head, skim 1mm off it, get some forgies and machine a couple a niks in if the inlet valves are close and slap it back together with a 1mm gasket.
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Sirnixalot
Guest
why waste money skimming the head...you will have to reshim the valve train as well as get adjustable cam gears.
Just get a set of custom pistons if anything
Just get a set of custom pistons if anything
I was just stating a cheap alternative, if you can get customs for a decent price (Like youSirnixalot said:
) then its ok.You wont have to re-shim the head if you skim it, and 1mm aint gonna throw the timing out enough to need the cam timing adjusted.
I've skimmed far too much off cylinder heads in the past but had good results on N/A engines.
Oh and you may wanna junk the A/C to compensate for the extra weight of the gas tank
(Joke)
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Anonymous
Guest
I quite like my A/C!
In fact, what's the highest powered Pulsar still fitted with A/C?
I'm just trying to investigate this as a possible 'cheap' way to get more from your engine. I'd love to have the money to just buy new pistons, rods, bolts and everything else that you do to make your engine quicker and stronger, but I don't! And not many people do.
A supra for instance; Massively strong internals for a start and a gearbox that still gets used on 1200bhp drag cars! That's effectively a very cheap car to obtain power from.
Unfortunately things aren't that simple with us. You have to start weighing up the odds. Total re-build or just bolt on bits? If I'm going to mess around with the internals too much then I don't really see how this LPG would be more advantageous than just boosting it to hell on a strong engine? :roll:
In fact, what's the highest powered Pulsar still fitted with A/C?
I'm just trying to investigate this as a possible 'cheap' way to get more from your engine. I'd love to have the money to just buy new pistons, rods, bolts and everything else that you do to make your engine quicker and stronger, but I don't! And not many people do.
A supra for instance; Massively strong internals for a start and a gearbox that still gets used on 1200bhp drag cars! That's effectively a very cheap car to obtain power from.
Unfortunately things aren't that simple with us. You have to start weighing up the odds. Total re-build or just bolt on bits? If I'm going to mess around with the internals too much then I don't really see how this LPG would be more advantageous than just boosting it to hell on a strong engine? :roll:
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Sirnixalot
Guest
you have increased it you mean
for every 0.1mm of gasket there is a 0.1 CR point difference
1.4 - 1.2 = 0.2mm
8.3+0.2 = 8.5:1CR
for every 0.1mm of gasket there is a 0.1 CR point difference
1.4 - 1.2 = 0.2mm
8.3+0.2 = 8.5:1CR
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Sirnixalot
Guest
the tomei yeilds an 8.5:1 Compression ratio in teh silvias and 8.3:1 in the gtir's
the pistons share the same dish volume but the gtir combustion chamber is larger.
I could be wrong....but i know that what i stated above is true on a standard internal motor
the pistons share the same dish volume but the gtir combustion chamber is larger.
I could be wrong....but i know that what i stated above is true on a standard internal motor
phantom grip
what do u guys think of these?
http://www.phantomgrip.com/products.htm
could we use this in both the front and rear diff? then we would front and rear lsds 8)
what do u guys think of these?
http://www.phantomgrip.com/products.htm
could we use this in both the front and rear diff? then we would front and rear lsds 8)
8)ashills said:
they only list a part for the front diff though.
http://www.phantomgrip.com/product_lists.php?make=Nissan
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Odin
Guest
I was thinking about one of these myself a couple of years ago, But I couldn't make my mind up .
rob
.rob
ive been reading into this alot and the aussies love them, a front lsd is supposed to be the best mod u can do to a gtir. They tested one before and after and they said the car was alot quicker through the twisties and gave u more confidence to go into the bends much quicker. 8)vpulsar said:I was thinking about one of these myself a couple of years ago, But I couldn't make my mind up
rob
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Odin
Guest
Its a very cheap mod as well, So I think I may buy one ready for the next time my engine and box are out , It's gotta be worth a go .
rob
, It's gotta be worth a go .rob
Dooie Pop Pop
New Member
make you right.vpulsar said:Its a very cheap mod as well, So I think I may buy one ready for the next time my engine and box are out
rob