Help with my bloody bumpsteer kit

[olliecast]

Not sure what planes steer with, I only make the engines!

Steve, we all learn the more we read into / understand about something. I raised the arms when looking into fast guys photos of his. They look higher than original.

How did you make your kits. Work out the taper and position the arm as low as possible?

Who's dave? Instructions? What you on about mongy?

Keep taking the piss, enjoy it, lol.

 

[PobodY]

The irony is that we'll probably discover that there are tie-rods in a plane and they're used for the rudder...

I'm just taking the opportunity to get some banter in before it's my turn again.

EDIT: Crap... Wikipedia says they do:

• In airplane structures, tie rods are sometimes used in the fuselage or wings.
• In automobiles, the tie rods are part of the steering mechanism. They differ from the archetypical tie rod by both pushing and pulling (operating in both tension and compression).

 

[olliecast]

I hope they don't use the original bumpsteer kit bearings!:doh:

 

[olliecast]

i`ve now screwed in the tie rod end more. ~17.5mm.
I can`t thread it in all the way as it`ll bottom on the rack arm when i go to set the tracking. How much of the tie rod end was screwed in when you guys fitted yours?

I turned down the spacer and its just missing now on full lock and its much lower than standard so i think i`ve achieved the idea of the kit.


Was roughly setting my toe though and notice one side of the steering arm has ~10mm more thread showing to get it somewhere near. Is this normal?

Cheers,
ollie

 

[pulsarboby]

Was roughly setting my toe though and notice one side of the steering arm has ~10mm more thread showing to get it somewhere near. Is this normal

its irrelevant how much thread is on one side ollie as it merely means that the tracking has been adjusted on one side only to bring it to the required toe in / out then the steering wheels been adjusted on spline to compensate.
not the correct way to do it but same end result.

 

[olliecast]

so if i adjust it to equal each side on the tie rods, then move my stering wheel around a spline or so?

It just concerns me that i`m having to wind out the rack arm from the collar, hence having less thread holding the rack arm in!

If you get me big man

 

[Mr GTiR]

On my old car iirc 6 threads from the bearing to the sleave.

The bit that should be adjusted is on the sleave to the actual track rod arm NOT the bearing itself.

Is the kit any better after we last spoke? Did raising the car make it any better?

 

[pulsarboby]

so if i adjust it to equal each side on the tie rods, then move my stering wheel around a spline or so?

It just concerns me that i`m having to wind out the rack arm from the collar, hence having less thread holding the rack arm in!

If you get me big man

yep thats fine ollie and the way it should be done tbh, a lot of these tyre places just do it from one side for quickness as their lazy bastads 'which works' but not the correct way to do the job!
as you say, just adjust steering wheel on splines to bring back to central position.

 

[olliecast]

On my old car iirc 6 threads from the bearing to the sleave.

The bit that should be adjusted is on the sleave to the actual track rod arm NOT the bearing itself.

Is the kit any better after we last spoke? Did raising the car make it any better?

i`ve only just been fiddling tonight tbh but i`ve now turned down the spacers i put on (they`re about 3mm thick now) so the
bearing just clears the hub on full lock but gives the steering arom the lowest possible position without binding

The most tricky thing now seems to be how much to screw the bearing into the hub sleeve. I`ve got 17mm into the sleeve then a locknut holding it all in on the end (so i only adjust the arm and not the sleeve as you mention above).

do you mean you only had 6 threads sticking out? This is mine with the locknut at the depth i have wound mine in. Think it`ll be ok? i.e. enough threads in that it won`t pull out?

Bob, At garages they could potentially wind them out that much that the suporting thread is reduced!! not good.

cheers for the help guys

ollie

 

[bracpan]

Where the center of the rose joints sits in relation to the arm is the critical point of the bump steer kit, on other certain cars as little as 1/6 of an inch made a big difference.
To be honest I have never felt any bump steer on the Pulsar to speak of (I used to have it on a Mini and you cant mistake it) thats why I never fitted a kit. To much hassle for very little if any gain.
There are many others ways to make a Pulsar handle better.
Good luck
Phil

 

[Mr GTiR]

Yes Ollie that looks about right. Now screw in the bearing into the sleave. Once the bearing is in place the only place where you adjust it is on the slave itslef as that will either wind up or down the track control arm.

 

[olliecast]

Yes Ollie that looks about right. Now screw in the bearing into the sleave. Once the bearing is in place the only place where you adjust it is on the slave itslef as that will either wind up or down the track control arm.

cool. They`re fitted now to that depth, just need to centralise my steering rack as it`ll bug me if its one sided!


Phil, interesting you said that as each of the 3 bumpsteer kits fitted on a pulsar seem to position the arm in a different position.
I was going to say is it just trial and error, but if you haven`t experienced it then i don`t see how you can.


Anyway, wheres that dremmel, to gain the camber back that the castor mod rudely stole away from me!

 

[Mr GTiR]

I still think your car is too low and that's why you had difficulty in fitting the kit but glad it's now fitted.

 

[olliecast]

I still think your car is too low and that's why you had difficulty in fitting the kit but glad it's now fitted.

its higher than the average pulsar so i`m pretty sure its not a height issue.

Also, it`d still bind with the height at a higher level as the radius above the taper on the pin sits below the line of the hub, so it`ll always clamp to the hub face.

Thanks for you help though mate (and the kit!!)
Enjoy your 4 dooring

 

[stevepudney]

WTF are you doing you have it all arse about face :der:

the sleeve screws onto the bearing all the way and pinch up tight to the side of the bearing, then wind the lock nut all the way onto the thread of the track rod, then wind the track rod into the sleeve then bring the lock nut down to meet and tighten onto the sleeve.

The most important thing is to cenralise the rack before you start fitting it, the steering wheel spline has a punch mark on the end, that punch mark is supposed to be at 12 o'clock, lock it in that position if you can, then put all the bumpsteer kit on (the right fucking way round :lol::lol

I'll post some pics of the ones I took off my car if I have the time tomorrow.

 

[olliecast]

The most tricky thing now seems to be how much to screw the bearing into the hub sleeve. I`ve got 17mm into the sleeve then a locknut holding it all in on the end (so i only adjust the arm and not the sleeve as you mention above).

do you mean you only had 6 threads sticking out? This is mine with the locknut at the depth i have wound mine in. Think it`ll be ok? i.e. enough threads in that it won`t pull out?

Steve, see the above.

I still have the locknut on the steering arm.

I have a locknut on the threaded sleeve to lock the bearing to depth.

The reason i haven`t screwed the bearing in all the way, is that when you compare the avaliable thread depth to an original rod end, it reduces the amount of thread depth the steering arm has into the collar. Iirc its about an inch less.

Some pics of the thread depth would be helpful.

Cheers,
ollie

 

[olliecast]

edited, can`t be arsed

 

[stevepudney]

hope this helps

 

[olliecast]

thats spot on thanks steve.

The taper on that one is alot taller than the one on mine (i.e. the largest diameter on the taper will actually clear the top of the hub, on mine it was ~0,50mm into the hub).

Thats caused the issue with my bearing binding.

My wheel is about 30 degrees out from the punch mark aswell. Was not a good starting point.


Thanks for all your help everyone,
ollie