Are used evo injectors ok?

Perrin21

Member
I am not 100% sure on this but i think there are 2 slightly different types of evo injectors.

I think the uk 260 evo injectors have a different pintle design or something and flow slightly less than the other 560cc evo injectors.

I dont think there is much in it tbh but i am sure i have seen it mentioned on the mlr.
Oh FGS, beginning to wish id not bothered. They are MDL560CC if that helps?
 

gtirx2

Member
lol i really dont think there is much in the flow rates of the 2 tbh,but i can just remember when my cousin was tuning his 260 that it was mentioned.

I think the 260 injectors have to run a slightly higher duty cycle to make the same power as all the other evo 560cc injectors.

I am pretty sure its only the 260 injectors that differ,just thought it worth keeping in mind if you are looking to buy a set.

I would not know about part numbers,maybe have a look on the mlr.
 

danr

Member
get them cleaned. a good set of MDL560 cleaned and tested are ~£149 all in, so spend the extra for peace of mind.
also, if they are fubar'd send them back to seller sooner rather than later.
plus you'll get all new o-rings, pintles and injector body cleaned etc

some geek stuff to read :_) @sr20forum
 

pulsar_stu

Active Member
They fit easy if you swap the o rings that go into the rail! Take them off your gtir injectors and put them on the evo ones ;)
 

campbellju

Moderators
Staff member
I'm guessing if they fit ok then any differences will be sorted in the remap with flow etc.
nope. AFR's are read at the exhaust tip on the dyno so you get the average. One cylinder could be rich and the other could be lean but the average would be fine.
 

Perrin21

Member
nope. AFR's are read at the exhaust tip on the dyno so you get the average. One cylinder could be rich and the other could be lean but the average would be fine.
no I mean differences between 260 injectors and import ones. My injectors will be sent for Recon before being fitted.
 

Fusion Ed

Active Member
Juat a note for everyone - not just Perrin, I actually have more trouble from cleaned injectors than I do new/used combined. The solvents used in cleaning appear to cause the pintles to stick, petrol has a certain amount of lubrication. There is not really anything you can do about this but once or twice its been a pretty major issue.

Also if I suspect anything is wrong with the injectors I can do a load balance test on the dyno and compare each cylinder to see that they are all doing about the same job.
 

Perrin21

Member
Juat a note for everyone - not just Perrin, I actually have more trouble from cleaned injectors than I do new/used combined. The solvents used in cleaning appear to cause the pintles to stick, petrol has a certain amount of lubrication. There is not really anything you can do about this but once or twice its been a pretty major issue.

Also if I suspect anything is wrong with the injectors I can do a load balance test on the dyno and compare each cylinder to see that they are all doing about the same job.
the advice from the injector Recon company is to only get them cleaned a few days prior to fitting, and not to store for months. What Edd has said is exactly what the company has said. Sticking will probably occur if stored.
 

PobodY

Moderators
Staff member
Would a final rinse in toluene help? Use something like DCM to clean them, then something less harsh to get the DCM back out?
 

stumo

Active Member
Juat a note for everyone - not just Perrin, I actually have more trouble from cleaned injectors than I do new/used combined. The solvents used in cleaning appear to cause the pintles to stick, petrol has a certain amount of lubrication. There is not really anything you can do about this but once or twice its been a pretty major issue.

Also if I suspect anything is wrong with the injectors I can do a load balance test on the dyno and compare each cylinder to see that they are all doing about the same job.
That's fair enough
 

danr

Member
good to know ed, what rpm drops / difference is within your limits on the balance test? i did read 100-125 max (30 average ok) between cylnders (1300 rpm test), but quite hard to find the correct infos (as usual!). though this is good

/thread hijack
 
Last edited:

Fusion Ed

Active Member
I don't just look at RPM. I also monitor AFR. The change in AFR should be the same across all cyls. When you turn off a Cyl, you will naturally expect the AFR over all to go leaner, but it should be the same across all 4, its just another method to help rule out problems/check what's going on.
 

Fusion Ed

Active Member
Would a final rinse in toluene help? Use something like DCM to clean them, then something less harsh to get the DCM back out?
Toluene doesn't have much in the way of lubrication (if anything). So not too sure to be honest. I plan to build my own test bench over the winter and have a play, but a thin oil penetrating oil would do the job. I think the only way I'd be happy with that would be to fire the injector make sure its passed via the pintle. Either way I'm always really paranoid with injectors after my experiences with them.
 

danr

Member
I don't just look at RPM. I also monitor AFR. The change in AFR should be the same across all cyls. When you turn off a Cyl, you will naturally expect the AFR over all to go leaner, but it should be the same across all 4, its just another method to help rule out problems/check what's going on.
So if cyl power was down, and afr went leaner than other cyls, then manual throttle body adjustment could compensate it? Or leak in that throttle body..
 
Top