Apex & GTiR Parts/Development

Kev@Apex

New Member
Pulsarboy - done :D

Has anyone looked at converting to a drum, as stated we do this on the 200SX S14/S15, using Z32/S13/Skyline Parts. Knowing Nissan it will be a similar setup they dont like change :p
 

GTIR-LOZ

New Member
if you could look into using a larger master cylinder as well as a number of us seem to have to pump our brakes first to get them working:evil:
 

Kev@Apex

New Member
Coilovers - test set due end of Aug/Early September :D

Cant You use other Nissan BMC's ?
I use a 300ZX one on my S13 for a shorter pedal.
 

sadsy

New Member
kev, check your pm please, tried to ring you aswell regarding the Stainless manifold but you never got back to me :)
 

Keira

New Member
GTIR-LOZ said:
please explain, i have looked over loads of posts and all seem to point to this being the problem
i think he's suggesting that they havn't been bled properly ;)
 

vss irvine

Well-Known Member
GTIR-LOZ said:
if you could look into using a larger master cylinder as well as a number of us seem to have to pump our brakes first to get them working:evil:
what about trying a reconditioned standard master cylinder first????
before you try fitting something else?
 
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pulsarboby

Guest
GTIR-LOZ said:
please explain, i have looked over loads of posts and all seem to point to this being the problem
here you go this is from another thread by yourself that i replied to, just in case you aint seen it!


ok, the master cylinder will make no difference whatsoever to the pedal dropping, unless the pressure seal inside the cylinder has split!
easy way to check that out is start the car, pump the brake pedal untill its hard (sounds perverted) and keep constant foot pressure on the pedal!

if the pedal slowly creeps down to the floor.....under pressure....then you will have a faulty master cylinder pressure seal!

if not then the cylinder is ok!

if when your driving the pedal suddenly drops on first pressing the pedal, then this is either caused by
a) a sticky or binding caliper (probably on the rear)
b)water moisture in brake fluid
c) air trapped either in the master cylinder or brake lines. this is the most common cause, and can be a right git sometimes to get out.
the easiest way to do this is by clamping the brake hose on one side and bleeding the other, then visa versa on all 4 wheels!
sometimes air gets trapped and is drawn from one side to the other without ever reaching the bleed nipple, so you have to encourage it along the way!

one other possibility is that at sometime somebody has fitted a caliper upside down...yes laugh....but ive seen it done:lol: with the bleed nipples at the bottom!
this will deffo cause major probs, as the air will never be able to escape as it will be trapped in the caliper.
so check that all bleed nipples are at the top.
 

Fast Guy

Moderators
Staff member
pulsarboby said:
one other possibility is that at sometime somebody has fitted a caliper upside down...yes laugh....but ive seen it done:lol: with the bleed nipples at the bottom!
this will deffo cause major probs, as the air will never be able to escape as it will be trapped in the caliper.
so check that all bleed nipples are at the top.
Don't laugh, someone posted asking that a couple of weeks ago and I said exactly what you just have:doh: but it was too late and they have the caliper on upside down.
 
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pulsarboby

Guest
yeah ive seen it done a few times carl lol
people have spent days bleeding there brakes then run car into my garage after they have fitted new calipers, and say 'theres sopmething wrong with them':shock:

one look and i say put them on the right way round and they will work properly:lol: :lol:
 

GTIR-LOZ

New Member
well they are wilwoods so have 4 bleed nipples and i guess it does not matter which way round the calipers go as there is no markings to which way round they go i have bled and bled these brakes i did think it wasnt the cylinder as on a staright they are fine just round a chicane the first press drops to the floor i dont think its pads binding as i have just changed them and lubricated the pistons and none seem stuck it could be air in the pistons still i guess but i cant think of how to bleed them better and when they work they work very well
 

Kev@Apex

New Member
I've also seen calipers fitted upside down!

Cheers Pulsarboby for the elbow, I'll get it sent off to the factory and see what they can do with it to make a free-er flowing one.

Sadsy - PM'd you
 

GTIR-LOZ

New Member
its hard to find a bleeder that has a jap reservoir adapter i would prefer power one but might have to settle with suck through but dont see it as being as good
 

GINGA

Active Member
Bleed them with the engine running, get the person pressing the pedal to press it hard, then release the bleed nipple ;-) just make sure your bleed pipe is firmly secured as the fluid will come out at quite a rate:shock: ake sure you bleed all the brakes, not just the fronts.
 

Fast Guy

Moderators
Staff member
GTIR-LOZ said:
well they are wilwoods so have 4 bleed nipples and i guess it does not matter which way round the calipers go
4? All the calipers I've seen normally have 2 nipples at the top and a pipe connecting the 2 nipple holes at the other end. Like this.


Although I guess as long as you bleed from the top nipple it shouldn't make a difference.
 

Kev@Apex

New Member
Development has progressed :thumbsup:

Sadsy has fitted the manifold and all is good.

The brake kit has arrived here for testing, "the chief" has first refusal on the first set as he supplied the hub.

Looks like our other brake kits, but with an engraved "K" on the caliper rather than our older design. No point opening it to take a picture, but heres a example, 330mm behind 18" Rota GTR's

356mm will also be available.




 
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