ABS Delete

matp5

Member
Hello! Anyone ever remove the ABS system? Not sure why, but I was expecting more posts on the subject :-\

Thanks
 

PobodY

Moderators
Staff member
Yes, people have done it. - I think it requires re-proportioning the breaks if you take the ABS out.
 

gsxr711

New Member
Yes you will need a non abs proportion valve and ideally the engine out for good access ,there is a diagram of the plumbing some where on here.
 

matp5

Member
Is the master cylinder different between ABS and non ABS cars?
I was thinking of replacing the proportioning valve with an ajustable one, but will probably require repositioning to access it?
I am planning on doing this when engine is out.
 

Jon Olds

Well-Known Member
Or you could do what I did and just took the ECU out!
It was hopeless in the rally car.
I have upgraded to 4 pot rears, but the balance feels good.
All orig plumbing is still in
Jon
 

Jon Olds

Well-Known Member
Should say its got proper AP front 4 pots. And I'm not saying its a safe or good thing for you to do.
Jon
 

matp5

Member
I've got 6pot wilwood in front and slightly larger disks in the rear, but always have a weird feeling on the brake pedal as if I have air in the system. Fuse is out when racing so I don't use the ABS. Since engine is out, I would like to remove the ABS to eliminate the ABS system from the equation...
 

fubar andy

Moderator & N/W Rep
Staff member
I've removed my fuse years ago and left all the ABS crap where it is.

Peddle feels fine and braking is strong (6 pots on the front).

Check the lines for ail (or possible leak) and try bleeding them.

Have you installed a brake support bracket on the car, might help with feel?
 

matp5

Member
I've bled the system multiple times and also had the brakes bled by others (professional mechanic) and always same result. I agree, if no leaks just simply removing the fuse should work. But since engine is out, I would like to remove the ABS pump or motor and ECU... remove prop valve and install an aftermarket one that could be adjusted... I don't mind re doing brake lines, just want to make sure I know how to do correct plumbing. Yes I have brake support bracket. Thanks
 

Jon Olds

Well-Known Member
There is an X type think with four brake lines into it on non ABS cars. I have one of these to fit when the engine is next out
Jon
 

Jon Olds

Well-Known Member
In a dusty box somewhere. I have stripped a couple of pulsars years ago for spares and kept the valve for future use
Jon
Insult me with a large offer over pm and it could be yours
 

matp5

Member
Ok, so I'm thinking of removing the OEM prop valve to replace with a Wilwood adjustable prop valve... the plan: from master to new prop valve, then one line to each front wheel and one adjustable outlet T'ing to each rear wheel line. Now, technical question... I wanted to change the pistons in the Master, but I've obviously ordered the wrong parts because the pistons are a bit different. Biggest difference is the back piston doesn't have the slot in it where the side screw goes through. So I'm wondering if I purchased the non-ABS piston kit. Now, if I'm removing the ABS, should I be replacing the pistons in the master with these pistons??? Anyone know any info on this?

Thanks
 

matp5

Member
Oh also, anyone know which line from master should go to front wheels? The back outlet on the Master (farthest from firewall) is identified with the letter "S" ??? Can't remember the letter on the other outlet... "P" maybe.... Primary and Secondary???
 

PobodY

Moderators
Staff member
They're crossed over aren't they? - So it's front right paired with rear left (and front left with rear right) rather than front axle and rear axle.
 

red reading

Active Member
They're crossed over aren't they? - So it's front right paired with rear left (and front left with rear right) rather than front axle and rear axle.

As george has said, two in dependant systems.....be carful fitting a bias valve they don't work in a logical way they work on a pressure not flow basis.
 

matp5

Member
Ok, but if I'm removing the OEM prop valve and installing a Wilwood adjustable valve am I right to assume "P" line from master should go to front wheels and "S" line should go to rear wheels?
 
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