Brake changes for a non racing GTIR

B

BMCC

Member
I don't race the pulsar on the track and have no intention of doing so. I drive it to work maybe once a week and sometimes have a spin at the weekend. The standard brakes are not at all good so it is an area I'd like to improve upon. The engine power is standard but I'd like to up the boost in the future but can't see me going beyond 300BHP. So are the only options a set of willwoods/hispec upgraded brakes or is there a pad/disc combination that would work out well? I've read alot about Carbotech pads but it is usually in relation to racing.

What can be done?
 
Fusion Ed

Fusion Ed

Active Member
Carbotech pads are fine for the road. Its also very important to make sure all the brake callipers are working properly. Most I see are not.
 
B

BMCC

Member
Fusion Ed said:
Carbotech pads are fine for the road. Its also very important to make sure all the brake callipers are working properly. Most I see are not.
Click to expand...
Are we talking about the XP10/XP8's or a different pad?

What are the main reasons for the Calipers not working? Do the pistons/sliders sieze or is it something else?
 
S

Sye

New Member
easy enough just have to bore out the holes slightly bigger on the hub so the bolts will go through then 4mm spacer behind the discs then job done
 
PobodY

PobodY

Moderators
Staff member
Rally Designs have the Willwood kit on special at the moment I think. ~£500 compared to the ~£700 normal retail price for the kit.
 
fubar andy

fubar andy

Moderator & N/W Rep
Staff member
XP8 pads front and rear (rears are important to balance the braking and add more overall braking power)
Braided brake lines all round
Aftermarket discs (front)
Master cylinder support bracket (if you can find one or be bothered to fit one)
Super Blue ATE brake fluid.

That should be more than enough for the road!

(And as mentioned make sure all the pistons are working and greased etc!)
 
red reading

red reading

Active Member
fubar andy said:
XP8 pads front and rear (rears are important to balance the braking and add more overall braking power)
Braided brake lines all round
Aftermarket discs (front)
Master cylinder support bracket (if you can find one or be bothered to fit one)
Super Blue ATE brake fluid.

That should be more than enough for the road!

(And as mentioned make sure all the pistons are working and greased etc!)
Click to expand...

Listen to this man! He is one of the converted too
 
red reading

red reading

Active Member
Found that they leave residue on the discs that give you a warped disc feeling when high speed braking myself with ds2500
 
J

Jon Olds

Well-Known Member
Love DS3000's and recently found 2500 rock also. Cheap ish, seem to get through loads of them. Tarmac rallying is probably unrepresentative of a lot of things, but man, they sure can retard you...
Jon
They are hard on discs, but that discs I use are half the price of the pads. You need to use gloves to change wheels though, as the wheels and wheel nuts will burn your hands if you touch them between stages
 
B

BMCC

Member
fubar andy said:
XP8 pads front and rear (rears are important to balance the braking and add more overall braking power)
Braided brake lines all round
Aftermarket discs (front)
Master cylinder support bracket (if you can find one or be bothered to fit one)
Super Blue ATE brake fluid.

.

That should be more than enough for the road!

(And as mentioned make sure all the pistons are working and greased etc!)
Click to expand...
Any disc that I should get or are they all much the same?
I've used EBC before and was happy enough. Grooved/Drilled/Plain or for street use is it just better sticking to Plain discs?

Thanks for your input fella's much appreciated.
BMCC
 
PobodY

PobodY

Moderators
Staff member
fubar andy said:
XP8 pads front and rear (rears are important to balance the braking and add more overall braking power)
Braided brake lines all round
Aftermarket discs (front)
Master cylinder support bracket (if you can find one or be bothered to fit one)
Super Blue ATE brake fluid.
Click to expand...
That's not so far from my setup. - I don't have the Carbotechs or the ATE Blue, but I do have braided lines, the master cylinder stopper, and groved and dimpled discs.

Seemed to last when we were at Bedford, but I guess I wasn't pushing as hard as others.
 
fubar andy

fubar andy

Moderator & N/W Rep
Staff member
BMCC said:
Any disc that I should get or are they all much the same?
Click to expand...

Disc wise is down to you, there is no right or wrong disc, people have their preferences brand wise. However you need to stick with grooved discs rather than drilled, as drilled are more prone to cracking.

EBC, Black Diamond, Brembo, they all do pretty much the same and as your not tracking it, most brands should last we'll over 20,000 miles!
 
vss irvine

vss irvine

Well-Known Member
I prefer blank discs on the road aswell. Brembo have never been a bad choice

You can do the evo caliper clio disc mod and fit them under 15" wheels.

Before you change the brakes i would also recommend a new brake master cylinder.

Start from the top.

People say the stock set up is shite but 20 year old brakes are never going to at their best.

My recomendation would be the same as what andy says,

But consider when changing brake fluid fitting reconditioned / new

brake m/c
And calipers
 
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