Raising the compression?

[P-man]

Thanks guys I will try all those things, i've got a new clutch on standby too. My old man is master tech at renault so i'm getting it over there on saturday. Hope it 's just low on fluid, the engine oil level was past the min when i got it so it wouldn't surprise me if the gearbox oil was the same. Don't think the previous owner looked after it very well.:sad:

 

[Fast Guy]

I think it's a factory problem on the early cars. Mine's crunched for over 5 years now. I've tried Castrol Syntrax and Silkolene syn5 to no avail. I might try redline next time.

 

[fulingbusen]

we're on the same track then; something in the back or rear is spinning freely and the viscous diff is sending part of the torque to the other end.

I'll be sure to write here when the problem is found.

 

[Jonesy]

Gear selection when hot

After sitting in traffic for a while once the car has warmed up, selecting 1st gear or reverse is very difficult, sometimes it wont go in at all grinds like fook have to switch the car off put it in gear then start up again in gear. Although 2nd seems to select ok and you can pull away in 2nd. Once you get out the traffic and the car cools down a bit gear selection goes back to normal.
Any ideas

 

[Braveheart]

Could be linkage where you have rubber bushes or even your engine mounts. When they get warm they become softer allowing more play or displacement.

 

[pulsarboby]

sounds more like a clutch issue to me
wheres the biting point on the pedal? my guess is its around 1/2''-1 from the floor!

if thats the case then try altering the pedal adjustment from inside the car and see what happens then.

if clutch is biting around midway point as it should, then you may have a bent selector fork or worn synchro which of course will be amplified when car is hot and clearances become smaller due to heat expansion.
but try clutch adjustment (pedal) first.

 

[fubar andy]

If could be the slave cylinder seals failing or as bob mentioned a clutch related problem what clutch are you using? - (if its RPS, a couple of clips that hold the pressure springs broke on mine and became lodged in the mechanism) :roll:

 

[Jonesy]

The biting point was pretty low about half an inch from the floor adjusted that a bit last week, thought that had solved the problem untill i got stuck in traffic yesterday, could try adjusting it a bit more first i suppose, and it is an rps clutch.
Braveheart i never even thought about the linkage was thinking it was a clutch problem aswell, just wasnt sure how it was only happening when hot but that make sense parts expanding and clearances getting tighter.
If it was the master / slave cylinder would the temperature affect this or would it be dodgey all the time.
Cheers

 

[fubar andy]

Not sure about the temperature thing, but the other area that you could look at is the clutch release fork. This is another area that I’ve had countless problems with my RPS. With the heaviness of the springs it punctures a hole through the fork and gives similar symptoms to what you’ve mentioned.

I'd put my money on that or the slave

 

[creedy]

it sounds very much the same thing as what happened to mine. almost the clutch slipping but its not :S
took it all apart and found the front diff (one inside the gearbox, behind the final drive gear) has burnt out/worn out. for what reason i dont know as it just happened out of the blue

toooooo many launches :lol:

 

[Mr GTiR]

Not sure about the temperature thing, but the other area that you could look at is the clutch release fork.

Heat won't effect the clutch fork. If temperature is the main issue then I would be looking at either the clutch or box. My money is on the box.

 

[gtirbhp]

try adjusting pedal a little more first to see if it helps but as everyone is saying it sounds most likely a gearbox or clutch issue

 

[fubar andy]

Heat won't effect the clutch fork. If temperature is the main issue then I would be looking at either the clutch or box. My money is on the box.

Oh yeah, I understand about the clutch fork Andy.

I was just baffled about it being temp sensitive when changing gear. :noidea: :-D

 

[STU666V]

Gearbox and engine

Hi,

I have a spare engine and gearbox going to be for sell? the only things is i don't now the condition of them? i bought the car crashed on the drivers door. The engine did start as i loaded it onto the trailer and the gearbox works as i had it up and down the gears going up and down my dads drive but i have not had the car up to speed so dont now the condition? The engine and gearbox is removed out the car now. What would these be worth?
Not sure to buy a forged motor and a quaife box or keep these these and rebuild them?

Anyone :roll:

 

[ashills]

ill give you 200 for the engine lol

 

[pulsarboby]

keep them stu, you will always have a spare engine & box then, should yours blow up on when racing!

 

[fulingbusen]

Did your problem appear every now and then or was i constant?

If I have understood it correctly, the center diff is also located inside the gearbox? But in your case it was the front diff and not centre diff that was worn out?

 

[Braveheart]

I would go with Bobs advise Stu or if you really need to sell them, use Bobs price guide.
Engine 850 gearbox 350+

 

[STU666V]

Cheers guy's,
I would really like a forged engine,quaife box, 3071 turbo and so on Because there's no way i can beat any of these Evo's in my class :x Was on the MLR site and it looks like 5 of the Evos are about 500 ish Bhp :roll: They have been working on them over the winter :roll:
The engine in my car is going fine but it's not forged!! Just had the gearbox re-built last year but if i start turning up the boost i might go bang!!!!:doh:
Anyone out there won't to sponsor me that would be great? Any spare forged engines,turbos etc laying about? just send them up to me
Think i will go down and put the lotto on :lol: If i get my kit car sold i am going shopping
http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/285189.htm
Thanks

 

[Braveheart]

I have seen this kit car in the flesh... it's absolute mint condition!
Stu... can't beleive you're sell your kit car to fuel your GTiR race car.
Thought you and your dad would have enjoyed that for many years to come.
Why not buy a buggered engine and upgrade to forged, you can sell your second engine now to help pay for the naff engine and upgrades and continue to run your R as is then when you have finished and fitted the forged engine, sell your original if need be.
I know you will still have to find 2K for a quaife but you will have maybe a year to save up for that.... It's not a cheap hobby/sport as I have also discovered.