Now I'm in a fudging mess

ShayneG

Member
HELP :!:

I tried to fit my new brake discs today which didn't seem that bad but when I came to fit the new pads I couldn't get the caliper back over the disc. I tried all sorts to try and push the piston back into the housing to give me more room but it wouldn't budge :shock: Any Ideas anyone and on the original nissan pads there are some metal plates that clip over the back of the pad but they don't seem to be a good fit on the EBC pads :?
Can I ditch these plates or do I need em :?:

Just to sum it up - I ended up getting rained off and now I got no fudging brakes :evil:
 

Rishi

Still waiting on some shims!
You need one of those mini vice grips... Thats what i used to puch the piston back into the housing anyway...
 
D

Dee 1

Guest
ShayneG said:
HELP :!:

I tried to fit my new brake discs today which didn't seem that bad but when I came to fit the new pads I couldn't get the caliper back over the disc. I tried all sorts to try and push the piston back into the housing to give me more room but it wouldn't budge :shock: Any Ideas anyone and on the original nissan pads there are some metal plates that clip over the back of the pad but they don't seem to be a good fit on the EBC pads :?
Can I ditch these plates or do I need em :?:

Just to sum it up - I ended up getting rained off and now I got no fudging brakes :evil:
Just use a bit of muscle you big GIRL :lol:
 

zia

Active Member
bolt the caliper back on without pads. and use screw drive to force it all the way back in!

zia
 

ShayneG

Member
zia said:
bolt the caliper back on without pads. and use screw drive to force it all the way back in!

zia
I was gonna do this but didn't want to damage the piston face :roll:

Do I need those silly plates that attach to the back of the old nissan pads - one popped of somewhere and I think a sparrow flew off with it :cry:
 

ShayneG

Member
skiddusmarkus said:
Did you take the cap off the master cylinder to allow the fluid level to rise back up again as you push in the piston?
nope :oops: - Do you think that will make it a lot easier to push the bugger in :?:
 
J

jasegould

Guest
Removing the cap wont make any difference at all...its not air tight. Make sure that when you try to push the piston back that you are applying even pressure to both sides of the piston (ie use 2 pairs or big grips - you will pronb need another pair of hands aswell). If you only push on one side the piston will kink in the housing and wont budge.
Jay
 

geoff pine

Well-Known Member
before you push the piston in ive read that you should open the bleed nipple on the calipar as forcing the fluid back in to the master cylinder can damages the abs system some thing to do with reverse flow damageing the abs pump must be worth thinking about there seames to be lots of none working abs systems out there
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
ShayneG said:
Any Ideas anyone and on the original nissan pads there are some metal plates that clip over the back of the pad but they don't seem to be a good fit on the EBC pads :?
Can I ditch these plates or do I need em :?:
up to you really but,they are anti-squeal plates.if you decide to put them back on,you should put a "little" anti-seize compound between the plates and the pad.copaslip [sp] is very good but remember to get high melting point grease.

the reason the plates don't fit very well is that the ebc pads might be designed to fit a couple of different makes of cars where the nissan pads will only be designed for nissan applications.
 

ShayneG

Member
All back together now and I actually have some decent brakes :lol:

Taking the cap off the fluid resevoir did the trick :wink:
The piston went in no probs with the cap off 8)
 

jonee

New Member
fudge

hi m8,

if the brake reservoir cap is air tight, that meens that when you wear the brake pads down the brake fluid won't be able to drop in comprarision to rate of pad wear.

cheers

jonee
 
D

Dee 1

Guest
Re: fudge

jonee said:
hi m8,

if the brake reservoir cap is air tight, that meens that when you wear the brake pads down the brake fluid won't be able to drop in comprarision to rate of pad wear.

cheers

jonee
Surley they got a one way valve on them :?:
 
J

jasegould

Guest
Taking the cap off the fluid resevoir did the trick
The piston went in no probs with the cap off
Must have been a fluke...can assure you it wouldnt have made any difference.
 

Fast Guy

Moderators
Staff member
ShayneG said:
zia said:
bolt the caliper back on without pads. and use screw drive to force it all the way back in!

zia
I was gonna do this but didn't want to damage the piston face :roll:
Try putting one new and one old pad in, and the caliper back in place, then try put the screwdriver behind the old pad and use it to lever the piston back in.
 

ShayneG

Member
I kid u all not - When I took the cap off the fluid resevoir the piston slid in nice and easy with a bit of a push wheras the day before I was trying everything to get it to budge.

This was either fluke or overnight I ate spinach without knowing :lol:
 

Davey

New Member
Are we talking about the fronts or rears?
Thought you had to "screw" the rears in?
Might be wrong though :oops:
 

MarkTurbo

Well-Known Member
Re: fudge

Dee 1 said:
jonee said:
hi m8,

if the brake reservoir cap is air tight, that meens that when you wear the brake pads down the brake fluid won't be able to drop in comprarision to rate of pad wear.

cheers

jonee
Surley they got a one way valve on them :?:
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

Course they have else you'd be getting well over a 1000psi in the brake fluid reservoir :wink:

This is basically how they work.



goeff pine said:
before you push the piston in ive read that you should open the bleed nipple on the calipar as forcing the fluid back in to the master cylinder can damages the abs system some thing to do with reverse flow damageing the abs pump
Yeah, apparently it dosent do the abs system any good. So open the bleed screw before you push the pistons back in :wink:
 
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