New ENGINE problem!

Tony

Member
Infact! thinkin about it 130 ish is right for lowerd compression so you would be getting higher compression on the other 3 cylinders!

Si had HKS 264 cams in and the head was shimmed to take these cams!

An original set of cams were put in before it was sold! could it be possible that the valves arent opening fully (because the shims will be thinner) causing the compression to be slightly higher???

Just a thought!



Tony....
 

MarkTurbo

Well-Known Member
I dont think being 20 odd psi down on one of the cylinders would cause a misfire :wink:

I compression tested an R the other day where the ringlands had broken up and even though it was 150 psi on 3 and about 50 psi on the other cylinder it didnt actually sound too bad :shock: just smoked a bit :lol:
 

ki_saj_ng

New Member
ok all, thanks for your input.

woken up this morning well afternoon and popped down to nissan to pick up some bits, had a chat with a mate down there and he also recommended to pour a little oil down the 3rd cylinder - said a ring could have seized with the piston so need to free it up.

come back home and did this, ran the engine for 10 mins to clear the oil and then did a compression test:

1 - 160
2 - 155
3 - 146
4 - 160

the results have improved a hell of a lot but still the 3rd is not upto scratch, but it looks like its getting there now.

still is missing even on idle, i dont think its smoking at all now even on idle (its still running)

i can understand the bit about the shims cut for the 264's, explains why they are SO tappety.

i think now that its running a bit better, im going to book it in with Hiteq and get it setup properly by someone who knows what they are doing.

one other question, the turbo gauge on idle rests at 0 rather than -7psi, whats up with that?

thanks
 

ki_saj_ng

New Member
what's the oil pressure like?

the oil pressure seems ok on idle, have not gassed it yet as i just want to let it clear up first.

what does it rev like?

like i said, have not gone silly with this just yet.

does it idle ok?

theres a heavy gurgle from the goose but its still missing, could just be the timing, have changed the leads plugs ect.

this has built forge piston etc?

yes its a fully rebuilt engine with hks forgies and rods, 2mm H/G, bottem end, and the rest of it :wink:

no loose pipe;s

definately no loose pipes, iv connected it all up myself so i know whats gone on with it.

while idling pull out the dipstick check form fumes/smoke?

theres no smoke when either0 puling the dipstick out or taking the cap off, but when i take the cap off, the revs drop very low.

closley inspect leads/dizzy cap/rotor arm

these are all fine as i replaced them and still no change.

thanks for your help, keep it coming, want to try some other things before i get it down to Ian.

cheers
 

Fast Guy

Moderators
Staff member
ki_saj_ng said:
1 - 160
2 - 155
3 - 146
4 - 160

the results have improved a hell of a lot but still the 3rd is not upto scratch, but it looks like its getting there now.
You only have a 14psi drop between cylinders there. Nissan say that's acceptable (just :wink: ) :)
 

ki_saj_ng

New Member
yea im hoping that will be ok, the 14psi drop. its improved overnight so im hoping that it will catch up by 2moro.

just had it on idle for almost and hour and sems to be clearing up well, still sounds tappety and misfiring a little bit but it seems solid compared to yesterday (no shakes)

still i have a question mark over the turbo, its still resting at 0/+1 psi, and even when i rev it it does not move at all.

oil pressure is good and the temp needle sits well below the half way line so im good there too.

just the turbo and misfire i have doubts and worries on, what ya thinks.

thanks

ps, Si, im still waiting to hear from you.
 

Fast Guy

Moderators
Staff member
Have you checked the plug condition/gaps? It's possible they could be cold fouling depending what plugs are in there.
 
G

GartracS2

Guest
so your telling us that this engien had HKS cams installed and had the valve clearances set? Then the old cams where slotted back in when the engine was sold? Im a Nissan Technician and I can tell you Ka that if the valve clearances are incorrect then it will be picked up by the knock sensor and the thing will run like shit if the VC`s are out. Also where the slotted shims put back on the correct way? I would check / adjust if nessecary the valve clearances (COLD) then run engine (HOT) and recheck your clearances compared to Nissans clearance figures for a Hot Engine.
Just a final thought If you had spoken to Me pre new engine purchase I could have rebuilt your old one at work. ;)
 

ki_saj_ng

New Member
yes the engine was built with the hks cams and now the standard ones have been dropped back in - i thought the hks one were direct replacements :? - but by the sounds of it (the engine) dont think so.

its running a whole lot better 2day, sounds like an engine (almost)

the plugs are hks s45's these have irdium tips and are set correct and are in good nick.

i personally think its down to my turbo and bad timing hence the missing and horrible sound, what ya thinks?
 
J

jiw

Guest
Hi mate, i had a miss like this before and it turned out to be that i had plugged my injectors back in and pushed one of the prongs in the plug back up the loom, try looking at the injector plugs and see if the two metal contacts are in position on all four injector's, worth a try, jeff.
 

ki_saj_ng

New Member
will do :wink:

2moro that is :D

just a bit tired now, not so worried bout it all and i dont wanna fuck anything up in the dark.

once again, cheers for your help dude :wink:
 

ki_saj_ng

New Member
hey mate,

have not messed about with 2 just yet, will do 2moro :wink:

any1 got any news on my turbo? still resting at +1psi on idle, doesnt move at all (needle) with revs, and theres a slow n steady blueish smoke from exhaust - turbo knackered?
 

sypher

New Member
Ok, as you can appreceate it is hard to diagnose an engine fault without seeing and hearing it. Can you determine which cylinder is faulty if so good, my suggestions are pulling each HT lead one by one for two purposes> 1. which cylinder doesn't change running (for worse) and >2. listen to each spark as you hover the lead above the plug tip. now that you have found the cylinder which is at fault check spark,check compression,check fuel injector remembering the dropping resistor in series (could always swap injector to different cylinder as it may be leaking or producing a bad supply ie; injecting squint and the fuel is condensing on the inlet runners.)

as for your boost gauge reading 0 bar ( Q, does the gauge raise with boost ) if not check pipe to intake manafold "after" the throttle bodies as 0 bar on gauge is actually 1 bar or 1 atmosphere, -7 is actually 300-350 mbar good strong vac' with stock cams keeping stable idle. if connected ok check valve clearances as said above and throttle valve ballance incase of intake flow reversion.

can't think of anything else right now, post up if i do
 

Fast Guy

Moderators
Staff member
ki_saj_ng said:
any1 got any news on my turbo? still resting at +1psi on idle, doesnt move at all (needle) with revs, and theres a slow n steady blueish smoke from exhaust - turbo knackered?
Check the obvious first, ie your boost gauge is actually connected :wink: .
 

ki_saj_ng

New Member
there is definately a connection as it bumps up to +1 as soon as you turn the ignition, it does not move with revs at all - also cannot hear the dump valve.

the connections are all solid as i have mention before, ran over them all plenty of times to check.

have not messed around with it since thurs night, will have a go over everything once again 2moro and will report back, dont want to mess anything up now and would much rather get hiteq to sort it out for me.

thanks
 

ki_saj_ng

New Member
yes i have used that diagram to connect it all up so thats definately correct.

i will make sure all the hoses are clamped tight but i cant see them being the problem.

mmm, bit confused now!
 
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