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Just seen this thread, not been on for a while. He bought the turbo from me. As already said it was in good condition, with minimal shaft play. Will be interested to see why it failed. Pm'd anyway.

My one's sold, i wouldn't trust them to fit a relocation kit if they cant change a filter. Must be good at servicing cars if they cant change filters :roll:

check out my for sale ad if your after a forged bottom end. Cheers

£450:roll:

I'm selling one for £700 with actuator and braided lines, which i think is fair enough. Had a few silly offers though.

mines still for sale :-D

I have the exact same problem. My clutch pedal had broken away from the bulk head and the bracket was flexing rather than engaging the clutch. Still dont understand why it was worse when the car had warmed up. I've fixed the bracket. Still not perfect though think my fork may be bent aswell. But...

I recently had a windscreen fitted from a local company they had the rubbers and were not nissan prices. Try phoning someone local. Don't mention pulsar any sunny should do the trick.

The cheapest i could get them down to was £120 thats with tints aswell, also them coming out to fit it. Not to bad compared to the first quote of £450 :shock:. Cheers for the help.

Cheers for the help i'll try phoning the above companies, see who gives me the best quote.

Anyone had there's replaced recently. Just wondering who's the cheapest. Also wither to look for one for the gtir or if another model fits. And no i'm not fully comp :doh: Cheers

Pretty sure i had to email someone to get a license, think you can only use it once. Not sure if there's a way round it.

Not to sure, but i think i read somewhere that the gtir uses 19mm big ends and the 200sx 17mm. I'm sure its been covered before if you do a search.

Block is but the crank would need a re-grind. I know what your saying probably better getting somthing closer to you. Cheers

Did you get my PM a couple of days ago.

I've got a block, also crank but it would need a re-grind.

Forgot about this thread, glad your getting somewhere. Yip the datascan does as above.

Rich, i've got the datascan software, you can reset ecu codes with this, not sure if it will be any different from shorting the pins out though. But im only down the road at dunbar if you want to try it. Cheers

You shouldn't need any sealer on the threads that the hose connects to. You may need some on the thread that screws into the cooler, if its tapered. But i think it will be a paralell thread in which case a copper washer or dowty seal should be used. You may need new fittings aswell as hoses...

You may have cross threaded it and its not sitting flush then. What make is it mocal ?