Would this suggest leaky crank seal


New Member

Ignore the fluid at the front of the block, that's from where i've removed the turbo, but there is a significant amount of sludging and wet oil around the crank pulley, not enough for it to be dripping on the floor, but I imagine it's well and truly on the way out.

I cleaned the area up a while ago and it's come back a little worse this time.


New Member
Awesome, I get to learn how to remove a crank pulley which will be fun hehe!

PS, I didn't get around to fixing my oil temp sensor, but it just started working again so haven't made use of that sensor you sent me Bob .. good to keep a spare I guess :lol:


Hey tim, I've just replaced mine within 2 weeks now.

My seal didn't leak while the engine was off. We took the wheel off and the splash guard. Wiped the area down below the crank pulley and started the car. Held revs at 2000 rpm and within 10 seconds, a line of oil was coming out.

There is a write up on how to do the job on the gtiroz site.

Replacing the front main oil seal:

You will need:
1. Jack
2. Gear Puller (super cheap $30- $40)
3. Socket Set
4. Breaker Bar (maybe)
5. Torque Wrench (expensive - borrow one if you can)
6. New Seal (Nissan Part: 13510–53J10)

1. Take driver side wheel off

2. Take inner guard off

3. Crack nut on pulley (27 mm) (you may need two people)
Put into 5th gear or get someone to hold brake pedal down
Do not take nut completely off just crack it
If possible the use of a rattle gun will make life alot easier here.

4. Undo belt tensioners
14mm for the Tensioners and the Engine mount bracket.

5. Remove belts

6. Remove driver’s side engine mount support left side of engine on jack
(I used the bracket for the air-con condenser to the block)

7. Slowly drop engine until pulley is fully visible
(you don't actually have to do this, but you can if you need to).

8. Use gear puller to remove pulley (this is the important part)
Turn nut one or two full revolutions and use gear puller until nut is tight again
Take off gear puller and turn nut one or two full revolutions etc repeat this step until pulley is off
(Use the puller that doesn't have the claws on it. Chances are, you can warp the pulley or run the risk of chipping the outside of the pulley off. I used a steering wheel puller like this:

9. Take out old seal out (be careful not to damage a steel washer that is behind the seal)

10. New seal needs to be inserted evenly with a bit off oil on out side of seal (I used an old pipe that’s diameter was just smaller than the seal outer edge and a rubber mallet).

11. Insert pulley again evenly as per last step

12. put every thing back together again make sure belts and crank pulley nut is at right tension or torque as per workshop manual

Hope this helps,
Credit to Timbo from GTiROZ. I added the bit about the steering wheel puller.


you dont need a gear puller, theres 2 threaded bolt holes in pulley where you can tighten 2 bolts into it thus drawing pulley from crank.

one thing i will say however, is check the inside lip of pulley itself (the bit that runs around the seal) as they are notorious for cracking and this will destroy the oil seal in no time at all.
just clean the lip with some wet n dry paper and make sure its all smooth with no hairline cracks!

vss irvine

Well-Known Member
i didnt see this in time, but you dont actually need to use bolts or any kind of puller.

2 large screwdrivers, one at each side of the pulley(between pump cover and pulley)

and slowly( very slowly or youll break the edge of the pulley) and gently start rocking the pulley, it may take a couple of minutes to work it free, but it saves any damage ( as above)

you should get away with a bit of jb weld on that hole. but i would consider an oil change incase theres any debris inside.


did you try tighten one down only or one more than the other?
if you do them both a bit at a time then you shouldnt do that as the pulley will be withdrawn squarely!


New Member
Half a turn each, it has marked the face on the other hole as well, not to worry. Live and learn i guess..

Will be in touch tomorrow for a new front face Bob, more overnight parts from Essex!


New Member
I'm aware of that, i've removed all of the bolts for the cover, I have to now drop both sumps to take the cover out and then fit the replacement.

Ball-ache, but i'm working to quite a tight dealine now so am working on it when i finish work as well as the weekend.

If anyone has any hints or tips on how i'd go about doing it, then please share!


New Member
Got the cover off this evening, currently in the dish washer.

Will be taking it to be repaired tomorrow.


Active Member
yer hope it works out mate sounds like the typical anoying things that keep getting in the way, nice to see you getting through it quickly :D