Wiring Problem - Smoke in Cabin!

pschurr

New Member
To be honset Smo, that does not look like a factory loom to me.
In factory condition, there is no small loom like that running from the cabin, along the throttle cable and then up along the radiator support bracket.

Where does it go, and what does it do.


peter
 

ducie54

Member
To be honset Smo, that does not look like a factory loom to me.
In factory condition, there is no small loom like that running from the cabin, along the throttle cable and then up along the radiator support bracket.

Where does it go, and what does it do.


peter
Turns out the short was caused by the wire running to the AVCR boost solenoid being pinched under the radiator support bracket directly onto a small chip on top of the radiator
 
Anyway on 12 volts all cables will burn in 20 seconds....so there's not much to do.
The voltage is irrelevant, it's the current that causes the temperature rise and eventually a melt down. All cables have a max current carrying capacity at a certain ambient temperature. The wire you use smo needs to be the same gauge or prefably bigger than what was used before. You could do it properly by using the correct de-rating calculations for your selected cable.....but i won't bore you all with that :lol:.
Could even whack an in-line fuse on there incase it happens again. Think of your house wiring.... every single bit of wiring is fused.
By the looks of it, the 12v supply is tapped off before it gets to the ECU (Orange wire) so thats probably why the ECU is ok still. The solanoid uses piss all current anyway, so the wiring to it is fairly thin; hence the short causing it to burn.
Glad you sorted it though mate 8)
 
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Smo

Active Member
The voltage is irrelevant, it's the current that causes the temperature rise and eventually a melt down. All cables have a max current carrying capacity at a certain ambient temperature. The wire you use smo needs to be the same gauge or prefably bigger than what was used before. You could do it properly by using the correct de-rating calculations for your selected cable.....but i won't bore you all with that :lol:.
Could even whack an in-line fuse on there incase it happens again. Think of your house wiring.... every single bit of wiring is fused.
By the looks of it, the 12v supply is tapped off before it gets to the ECU (Orange wire) so thats probably why the ECU is ok still. The solanoid uses piss all current anyway, so the wiring to it is fairly thin; hence the short causing it to burn.
Glad you sorted it though mate 8)
Cheers for that bud - in the end I went with a dissected loom from a Celica GT4, like you said, bigger gauge.

All is well so far and it ran it's best for a long time!
 

RO_SUNNY

Active Member
@Jambo
1.
I think you are talking about amperage.......
2.
The longer the wire you mount / replace the higher the resitance is.....so it's simple as that: put a thicker wire and you problem is solved.
 

PobodY

Moderators
Staff member
No, there's a semantic difference in English: Amperage is the measurement of current; so you could say the amperage is 5, or the current is 5 amps.
It's pretty subtle, so you're both actually correct.
 

ZED_not_zee

New Member
I always thought that slam panel would cause an issue if ever in a collision... think I might put some hard plastic conduit in...
 

RO_SUNNY

Active Member
:)))) Yeah you are correct.
At least I have an excuse.....I am not an native english speaker....I've learned all my ''engrish''!!!
 
@Jambo
1.
I think you are talking about amperage.......
2.
The longer the wire you mount / replace the higher the resitance is.....so it's simple as that: put a thicker wire and you problem is solved.
Yes i'm talking amps 8)
yes you're right in the fact that the longer the cable, the greater the resistance... but thats when you delve into massive cable runs. In car wiring, the cable runs will never be that long so cable length has a negligiable effect; It's the gauge of the wire as you correctly said. For example: you could have some 24 AWG cable that is good for 4 Amps.... but this is in free air. As soon as you put that cable in a loom and in an engine bay (much higher ambient temperature), the current carryin capacity is greatly de-rated. As the cable heats up, the resistance increases; and with that more heat is given off.
Glad you sorted it though smo 8) i still need to come for a spin in that machine of yours :twisted: lol
 
ok mate cool. I'm going to attempt my water pump this evening i think, got one from southern exhausts for £41 which I thought was quite good :)
 
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