What's the sensor in the middle of the exhaust called?

[AJ4]

yes, it only comes on if the cat is overheating ( or reaches the combustible temperature of paper, whatever that is ).

It also comes on if the metal braid on the lead breaks and the cable rubs against something and shorts out

ive actualy got a mate who got stuck in a field of straw, he kept wheel spinning then smelt smoke, he got out the car and the next theing he knew wooof a brand new pesat up in smoke, doh, good job i don't have a cat lol, cheers

:shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock:

 

[Odin]

Right this may be me being a mong or my cat temp light don't. When is this light ment to come on. I only thought it came on if the cat was overheating :?:

Once it reaches a certain temp it will come on, I managed to get it to come on with my skyline once after a very hard long drive .



rob

 

[cojack]

Ok thanks for clearing that but how the hell is it ment to light up to say your to hot to park on grass :?:

 

[Odin]

Ok thanks for clearing that but how the hell is it ment to light up to say your to hot to park on grass :?:

Guess what Sherlock if the lights on its to hot lol :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: .





rob

 

[NISM0]

lol

ah well all\s well that ends well :roll:

 

[cojack]

Ok thanks for clearing that but how the hell is it ment to light up to say your to hot to park on grass :?:

Guess what Sherlock if the lights on its to hot lol :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: .





rob

But like you said yourself it only came on after a good hard spanking. and most standard R engine's would melt before that light came on. I have never seen mine on.

mmm note to self must short this out to see if light does work lol

 

[AJ4]

I think its more to help warn of a knacked cat. Apparently as they wear out they get clogged up or something as all the platinum melts and runs together causing a restriction ( or something :lol: ) and they heat up quite bad.

The cars designed to work everywhere from the tropics to the north pole, so I don't expect it would get hot enough in the sunny UK

 

[NISM0]

my last r

my last r started with a cat but i blew the shi##$ out of it so put an extension bar trew th rest, instant d cat lol

 

[geetee]

To reply to AJ's post some miles back.....

Clearly if you fit some kind of replacement ECU or fuel computer with mapping based on throttle position, MAF/MAP reading, ambient temp, charge temp, boost, etc etc with lots of load points the lambda becomes redundant.

I was talking about what the lambda is meant to do in conjunction with the ECU in a standard setup.

Ta
Graham

<<editted to remove unnecessary / inflammatory comments>>

 

[AJ4]

So where exactly do you get off calling me a retard ? Wind your neck in FFS ! Are you one of those psycho keyboard warriors who insults complete strangers, and never consider you might have to say it to my face some time in the future ?

Remove the lambda sensor from a Pulsar with a standard ECU, it will still start and run. It will run rich because the standard base map from the factory is overly rich, but thats about it. With the lambda sensor disabled it will just revert back to the base map. If it was a decent map in the first place, you wouldn't even need a lambda sensor.

So my statement still stands. You don't need a lambda sensor on any car, standard ECU or otherwise. It is only there for emissions reasons, the engine still works without it.

If you want to reply with some proper technical argument, fine. If you want to keep up the kiddie name calling, dont bother, I've got enough on my plate at the mo.

 

[geetee]

Hmm... reading that again.. probably was a bit strong... sorry

But you have kind of defeated your own point. As you say the base map is excessively rich so the lambda is used to regulate it. And also as you say the base map is overly rich in order to enable safe running with a wide range of environmental variables - so again the lambda is used to "fine" tune it (nothing fine about it I know :lol: ) to the current environment.

Also as you say, it will start and run ok with the lambda disconnected. Just excessively rich..... which whilst not particularly harmful until you get into bore-wash territory is not ideal..... you're not exactly going to get the best performance running that rich.

However, I still maintain that you should keep the lambda to do it's job as above unless like many ppl do, you want to "map" your engine to get the most out of it given your mods, your climate, your usage. Then yes it becomes redundant.

I also still think that simply stating that the lambda is not required on any car and is just for emissions is misleading.

Ta
Graham 8)

 

[jpward]

Gee see the gloves are off :lol:

I can say ive had the light on many times before i de-cated the car and then i taped the sensor into the de-cat and never lit again!!

Does anyone know which sensor is used for the ratio check in self Diagnostic mode? also where does that "Cat sensor" go to inside the car as in where can i rip it out as ive a new SS de-cat and cant be arsed tapin it out. :?:

 

[Nigell_d6]

Hi,

Now ive enjoyed reading all this and eveybody in my view is right, depends how the car is set up after all the expensive bits are put on and, no you dont need the one by the cat if you dont have a cat and two you do need the lamb depending on if at the time is running in open or closed loop, but with fully mapped system dont need it, with my system doesn't make a damn, i throw fuel out the back to fill up another car, but then who honestly drives a GTI-R economicaly, so in my opinion, if you feel its required and your car runs like a bag of poo without it, leave it in, if the car runs fine without it, leave it out, its your car, me, I leave them in, saves me finding a plug to fill the hole

Regards

Nigel

 

[AJ4]

the whole point of the argument was that engines don't need lambda sensors to run ( we've managed engines already for over 100 years without them ). They are a modern design, brought in only so manufacturers could conform to new emissions laws.

If you removed the lambda sensor from a Pulsar ( or any modern car ) without it going in to fault mode, it would run happily all day long on the base map, forever. It will be a bit rich, as all manufacturers build in extra richness as a safetyfactor, but it will still run fine.

The standard ECU is already 'fully mapped', the manufacturer doesn't leave a big hole in the map where the lambda sensors covers it, its produced independently ( although its usually adjusted at the edges so there is a smooth crossover from closed loop to open loop ).

15 year old lambda sensors are wildly innacurate, and the engine spends most of its time ramping up and down, trying to find 14.7:1. If its possible to disable the closed loop circuit on your particular ECU, then its worthwhile doing it. Your car will idle better, have more performance and use less fuel.

If you want low emissions and a 'green' friendly car, fix your lambda system and hope it still works after all this time. If you want power and driveability, bin it

For anyone still not convinced, I'll post up a plot showing exactly what the lambda sensor is doing in closed loop, as it swings from a 17:1 to 9:1 ratio twice a second...

 

[JIMMYBACK]

or better still make some thing so i can bin the lambda sensor

 

[Dooie Pop Pop]

i replaced mine ages ago and noticed i saved money on petrol better used for full boost application

they aint cheap though circ £140 iirc

 

[AJ4]

just need to find some way of forcing the standard ECU into open loop mode permanently... Have you noticed the number of posts on the board about lambda sensors going bad ? What a pile of junk, got to be the worst, most unreliable system in the world ( next to dodgy knock sensors )

 

[JIMMYBACK]

just need to find some way of forcing the standard ECU into open loop mode permanently... Have you noticed the number of posts on the board about lambda sensors going bad ? What a pile of junk, got to be the worst, most unreliable system in the world ( next to dodgy knock sensors )

well if you need funding just ask 8)

 

[Nigell_d6]

This is not bad at all,

course you dont need Lambda sensors or cat temp sensors, or any other type of sensor really, they are there because of the technological revolution of, ' if its knackered, replace it and charge the earth, lots of dosh, mucho profit, im gonna be rich', keep the working classes down there, it used to be called the fuedal system, at least then you could burn the deposits from the horse drawn cart to keep warm.

And now, everybodies got cars which go above 4mph, so we have these laws that stop us driving at the speeds we like, god im getting old and grumpy.

Why mod our cars to go faster when the M27 is a car park, cos it p's off those who think they have fast cars costing £150,000+ when going past them with a big grin

Regards

Nigel

 

[Dooie Pop Pop]

just need to find some way of forcing the standard ECU into open loop mode permanently... Have you noticed the number of posts on the board about lambda sensors going bad ? What a pile of junk, got to be the worst, most unreliable system in the world ( next to dodgy knock sensors )

i read somewhere (slept since then cant remember) that a lambda sensor will degrade pretty quick and should be considered a service item on cars running forced induction.