vpulsar
Well-Known Member
Your right more like 30 seconds but I like to be optimistic about my performance mate lol.
What would people like written.
- Thread starter red reading
- Start date
Your right more like 30 seconds but I like to be optimistic about my performance mate lol.
Diff's, what mods or tricks are there to improve the performance of the standard ones? What options are best and why (response, locking effect)
I have a good general idea but it's something I'd like to refine my understanding
I have a good general idea but it's something I'd like to refine my understanding
That's a good idea Jim. - I'd be interested to know if there's anything a "home mechanic" can do; maybe what oils are/aren't worth using to get the most out of the standard components you've got.
I figure dropping the oils and refilling is easy enough, but re-shimming a differential or swapping the internals is probably beyond me.
I figure dropping the oils and refilling is easy enough, but re-shimming a differential or swapping the internals is probably beyond me.
Makaveli_se7en
Member
A dude in The US was running 10,000rpm on a pretty stock VE head (springs and retainers). The stock oil pump was the weakest link.
There are a few guys in europe (greece and eastern europe are you best bet) that will cut copper beryllium valve seats if you feel so inclined.
red reading
Active Member
As above, I have heard of people revving stock gtir engines to 8200 rpm with no short term issues....as for long term we know the answers on that, only reason I specked what I did was for longevity of the engine and that with long rods and short stroke you will get longer dwell time at TDC for a better burn at high rpm and still have reasonable mean piston speeds as well, btcc use to do the same thing with the sr20 engine and used the gtir block with 82mm stroke and 88mm bore,....they made 300bhp on a n/a setup with no rocker trouble and no vvl heads too.
Makaveli_se7en
Member
Completely agree Danny, if I was asked to spec an engine for 10k rpm I would end up with a very similar spec to the one you listed. I just thought it was interesting that someone decided to push a pretty stock SR20VET that far.
Here's the pictures of the damage: http://www.sr20-forum.com/turbo/45952-new-setup-build-updated-5-25-12-723whp-32.html I'll let you guys diagnose the failure mode, the owner suggested the oil pump was at fault but it could well have been crank flex.
Here's the pictures of the damage: http://www.sr20-forum.com/turbo/45952-new-setup-build-updated-5-25-12-723whp-32.html I'll let you guys diagnose the failure mode, the owner suggested the oil pump was at fault but it could well have been crank flex.
shroom
Active Member
Thanks martin much appreciated
watoga
Member
Yes, I agree that this would be very useful indeed. Also, I would be grateful for some information on when to use a head torquing plate during an engine rebuild. These head torque plates can be found (for example) here:
HEAD TORQUE PLATE
I know they should be used during the honing process, but many also seem to recommend using them when measuring clearances, etc., but how important is this for a decent rebuild? I'd be interested to hear your thoughts......
Cheers,
Dave
red reading
Active Member
Right, when I get back from holiday I will be doing the write ups that have been suggested , will prob start with bottom end engine builds, whys, what's and torque plates and when you need stuff, then head work and so on. It will all be posted up once the mods have ok everything and stuff.
Just a quick answer to the torque plate thing, yes they are a good idea if you can replicate the plate to behave exactly like a cylinder head as bore dimension do change quite drastically on some engines when the head is bolted down, do you really need it for a up to 500hp road engine gtir...no tbh as you are not searching for perfection.....if you wanted that you would also need to measure the bores when the engine is at its design operating temps ala formula 1 etc
Just a quick answer to the torque plate thing, yes they are a good idea if you can replicate the plate to behave exactly like a cylinder head as bore dimension do change quite drastically on some engines when the head is bolted down, do you really need it for a up to 500hp road engine gtir...no tbh as you are not searching for perfection.....if you wanted that you would also need to measure the bores when the engine is at its design operating temps ala formula 1 etc
watoga
Member
That's what I thought, but it's nice to hear feedback from someone who actually knows what they're doing! :-D I am looking forward to reading your write-ups, they should be very helpful indeed!
Many thanks,
Dave
That'll be great Dan, look forward to reading it.
W
webadmin
Guest
Buyers guide would be great too. I dont think we have one of them.
red reading
Active Member
Ok I think that is a good idea, especially after seeing the recent stories of cars blowing up etc after purchase and the others who have bought forged piston engined cars and then found that it is standard etc, I will eventually do a write up on gearboxes and diffs as I have good knowledge of those and the tell tales as what is what and guides on how to tell certain things like is it stock or aftermarket.
red reading
Active Member
you love em really Tom .
W
webadmin
Guest
lol shcroom.
Lots of work for red reading to do there but all great stuff.
:-D
Lots of work for red reading to do there but all great stuff.
:-D