Thermostat gone?

J

jpward

Guest
Fast Guy said:
Well, the thermostat has been in boiling water for a couple of mins and nothing has happened.



You mean that bit? It flows from the rad into the thermostat doesn't it? (although it's still correct in a round about way as there will be no flow through the rad at all if the stat is shut)
Yes it stands to reason colder becomes denser and so makes its way down the radiator. So when you start the car and run it down the road the water behind the thermostat is very cold as it was cold to begin with now its had an extra cooling. So car reaches warm temperature about 80~90C and thermo opens to allow cooler liquid to replenish the now very hot water.

The only thing the thermostat will let through when cold is air through the bleed valve which is the little bit of metal that looks like a manufacturing snag left on and it should be at the top naturally!

If it has not moved then it is not looking good i would try the car without the thermostat fitted it wont do any harm and you will soon see if it is taking a long time to warm up from cold and thus solution found just make sure to bleed the system cold ;-)
 

Braveheart

New Member
As JP said, run the car without the stat it will all heat up at the same time, bottom and top hose.
I think you can now say that the thermostat is u/s if it does not open in boiling water. It should open around 80 deg C.

What a long winded thread for a fcuked stat... :doh: :shock: :lol: ;-)
 

Fast Guy

Moderators
Staff member
It all heated up without the stat in, but I didn't think it took longer than normal. I'll go for a road test later on and see if it's behaving itself.
 
J

jpward

Guest
Braveheart said:
As JP said, run the car without the stat it will all heat up at the same time, bottom and top hose.
I think you can now say that the thermostat is u/s if it does not open in boiling water. It should open around 80 deg C.

What a long winded thread for a fcuked stat... :doh: :shock: :lol: ;-)
Amen :lol:
 
I recently changed my thermostat and now have a small leak from the housing when the system is pressurised. Is there supposed to be a gasket or something? There wasnt anything there when i took it all apart, it was just all held together and sealed with crud :lol:
 
J

jpward

Guest
dan-hipgrave said:
I recently changed my thermostat and now have a small leak from the housing when the system is pressurised. Is there supposed to be a gasket or something? There wasnt anything there when i took it all apart, it was just all held together and sealed with crud :lol:
Like most parts on the R its a DIY gasket I used locitite instant gasket before.

Make sure you clean well before hand and have both parts dry then apply a nice bead to the little crove in the housing and let sit for 30 secs then making sure you have not forgotten to re-install the thermostat push the housing on and hand tighten the 3# 10mm bolts

Clean away any excess with a craft knife when solidified and then torque up the bolts and bleed system.

Its fiddly to get a nice even bead 360o but best thing is you cant see it :lol:
 

Braveheart

New Member
Dan... Ideally a gasket would be better than instant gasket (sealant).
You can buy gasket paper at any good motor factors and using a ball pin hammer (ball end) holding the paper in place over the housing, tap around the inner and outer edges of the thermostat housing and produce your own gasket.
Maybe Nissan do a gasket for the stat housing but I do not know....

Maybe Fast Guy can tell us.. ;-) :lol: :lol: :lol:
 
Last edited:

Fast Guy

Moderators
Staff member
Mine was sealed with rubbery stuff too, so I guess Nissan don't make a gasket. I have a roll of gasket paper (well cardboard) in my shed from my RAF days.;-)
 
J

jpward

Guest
Braveheart said:
Dan... Ideally a gasket would be better than instant gasket (sealant).
You can buy gasket paper at any good motor factors and using a ball pin hammer (ball end) holding the paper in place over the housing, tap around the inner and outer edges of the thermostat housing and produce your own gasket.
Maybe Nissan do a gasket for the stat housing but I do not know....

Maybe Fast Guy can tell us.. ;-) :lol: :lol: :lol:
Do you think I wrote what you had to do for fun! :doh:

I only use instant gasket when i have to and in this case how on earth is gasket paper going to seal water at pressure flowing between one flat surface and the other with a depresion??


Come on guys this is basic stuff in the WSM!
 

MarkTurbo

Well-Known Member
jpward said:
Come on guys this is basic stuff in the WSM
So you iz a member of da West Staines Massive too :shock: Respekt brother, aiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii 8)




























:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
 

Keira

New Member
Braveheart said:
The heater rad gets hot bofore the thermostat even opens... that's one of the reasons for a main thermostat. Gets heat into the cab quickly to defrost screen and heat to tootsies....
The head has 2 seperate water ways

the water that goes to the heater matrix actually comes from the back of the head and never gets as far as going through the rad during that cycle. The water from the front of the head goes to the rad, then the stat then back to the pump. .

For getting a heater warmed up quick this is all well and good but for optimum cooling this is a load of sh!te as the water from the rear of the head is hot, and always added to the cooler water from the rad before going back to the pump.

With a simple bit of modification when the heater goes in the bin this can be much improved and you would have cooler water temps which is better all round as far as perfomance goes and having a happy engine
 

Fast Guy

Moderators
Staff member
I've just taken it out for a run. Temp gauge sat in it's normal position (nowt new there then:roll: ) and oil temps never got above 75 after 30mins.

Just need to get a new stat now.
 
J

jpward

Guest
CanadianR said:
Respec! even :lol:


Funny forkers arnt you


Work Shop Manual for those lost!


To add to what Keira said during the summer I usually run with the heater on full and open the window to get cool air not like its the Bahamas here :lol:
 
Last edited by a moderator:

antgtir

New Member
jpward said:
To add to what Keira said during the summer I usually run with the heater on full and open the window to get cool air not like its the Bahamas here :lol:
I do the same thing all year round lol:lol: works wonders8)

I agree, no gasket paper is required on the re fitment of the thermostat housing as to do so would leave an area of weakness with regards to weaping of the pressurised water. Always use the instant gasket when re fitting the thermostat housing and also the water pump, ive used this for years and my dad before me has done the same and between us we have never had any issues at all, and thats a fair number of years:lol:

Ant.
 
O

Odin

Guest
jpward said:
To add to what Keira said during the summer I usually run with the heater on full and open the window to get cool air not like its the Bahamas here :lol:

I never get any kind of over heating with that big koyo rad and 19 row oil cooler I have fitted, If I had do what you're doing I'd be looking at a better solution if it where me :? :roll: .





Rob
 
P

pulsarboby

Guest
couse you dont get any overheating rob, like me your car never goes anywhere or gets a chance to overheat lol
 
O

Odin

Guest
pulsarboby said:
couse you dont get any overheating rob, like me your car never goes anywhere or gets a chance to overheat lol

Well it has only done 3000 miles in the last 4 years :shock: :oops: , But some of those miles where spent on very hot days stuck in traffic :cry: .

I was stuck in a cue out side McDonald's for about 20 min's that's how I found out the fan didn't work :shock: :cry: , But it still took 20 mins to get hot with that big rad and cooler fitted, My temp gauge never really moves from 90 degrees in normal driving no matter what the weather is doing.

My new set up will be a bit cramped what with 3 rads at the front or vying for space :shock: :lol: :lol: :lol: .



Rob
 
Top