Braveheart
New Member
Surprised to hear that it felt better on track with front ARB removed.
In your case, whiteline front and rear may be the answer.
Strut braces- Are they worth it?
- Thread starter GTiRlover
- Start date
In your case, whiteline front and rear may be the answer.
Trip
New Member
Removing the front one will help (to a degree) understeer, but you can induce other bad things.....I only removed the front as it was understeering badly, I had my tracking checked to. I will once funds allow to fit uprated stuff, as I only removed the front ARB as a temp fix as it works
I had once removed the rear arb from my old S2k and it did improve oversteer a little but i found out that my inner rear wheel was lifting while cornering.
Radleigh- when you say the car was more prone to oversteer was this when driving normally or where you trying to provoke a slide? Did it snap into oversteer or was it progressive and controllable? How does it handle on the road without the front ARB?
bracpan- to get the most from your car in all conditions I agree with your advice to get Eagle F1's or whatever they are called since they have changed... They always seem to come top of every tyre test magazines.
PobodY- I understand what you're saying. I'm going to have a play about with my suspension first to test the hypothesis of softening the front and stiffening the rear equals more grip. It sounds good and I trust what Whiteline and other experts say.
Braveheart- it makes sense what you are saying about wanting the car to be as stiff as possible on track but on the road a little roll is preferable especially over bumpy B roads... Like bracpan says a setup for the road is less than ideal on a track. Nice link by the way, very interesting!
bracpan- to get the most from your car in all conditions I agree with your advice to get Eagle F1's or whatever they are called since they have changed... They always seem to come top of every tyre test magazines.
PobodY- I understand what you're saying. I'm going to have a play about with my suspension first to test the hypothesis of softening the front and stiffening the rear equals more grip. It sounds good and I trust what Whiteline and other experts say.
Braveheart- it makes sense what you are saying about wanting the car to be as stiff as possible on track but on the road a little roll is preferable especially over bumpy B roads... Like bracpan says a setup for the road is less than ideal on a track. Nice link by the way, very interesting!
Having got to this point I'm already eyeing-off uprated bushed for the rear ARB as an £18 fix until it's time to replace the rear ARB.
I'm happy to have a bit of flex to take the bumps out and keep my wife happy in the passenger seat, but I also don't want to repeat what I did before Christmas; understeer trying to pull into work, hit the curb, take out the alloy wheel... and bend the wishbone... and shear a wheel stud off....
That's the real reason I can't spend the money on uprated parts, I've got to replace the broken bits first!
I'm happy to have a bit of flex to take the bumps out and keep my wife happy in the passenger seat, but I also don't want to repeat what I did before Christmas; understeer trying to pull into work, hit the curb, take out the alloy wheel... and bend the wishbone... and shear a wheel stud off....
That's the real reason I can't spend the money on uprated parts, I've got to replace the broken bits first!
Slightly provoked :lol::lol:
tbh, it was fairly controllable I was hooning about as they say on roads i know very well, so was pushing it to the limit i knew, nothing more.
On track, was fine, I didn't really push it much, but on one corner I did actually have a bit of a 4 wheel drift going on, but that was me being ****y! LOL
Can anyone tell me what the diameter of the standard rear ARB is?
As I said, for £18 I thought I'd give polybushing just that a go and see if I can tell the difference... I just can't work out what size I need for the ARB to chassis bushes.
I'd rather the rear stepped-out and gave me the chance to catch it, than it just won't turn in and I slam into a curb again. The last performance car I had was my Skyline, and that was always tail-happy so I almost expect it whereas I never expect to understeer and it catches me out.
As I said, for £18 I thought I'd give polybushing just that a go and see if I can tell the difference... I just can't work out what size I need for the ARB to chassis bushes.
I'd rather the rear stepped-out and gave me the chance to catch it, than it just won't turn in and I slam into a curb again. The last performance car I had was my Skyline, and that was always tail-happy so I almost expect it whereas I never expect to understeer and it catches me out.
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14mm dia
i fitted My whiteline adjustable rear bar 4-6 months ago and Completely believe its the most bang for your buck
i suspect mines had a frontal in its history and i have front and rear sway bars All of which helped Immensely and
also a 4 point cusco lower brace before the rear bar replacement round abouts were dodgy at speed the R Performs
HUGELY BETTER
IMO dont bother dicking about with replacing saddle bushes as they come with the whiteline kit
note the the drop links arent inculded
yet to fit the antilift kit
i suspect mines had a frontal in its history and i have front and rear sway bars All of which helped Immensely and
also a 4 point cusco lower brace before the rear bar replacement round abouts were dodgy at speed the R Performs
HUGELY BETTER
IMO dont bother dicking about with replacing saddle bushes as they come with the whiteline kit
note the the drop links arent inculded
yet to fit the antilift kit