Starting up an engine thats been stoo a long time
- Thread starter skiddusmarkus
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skiddusmarkus
Active Member
Its not being driven so barely making boost.
I've been and checked the plugs again and 1&2 are fine, 3&4 are sooted up again so guess they aren't firing as it feels like its on 2.Am going to do a fault code test now and try swapping 1&2 and 3&4 plugs around to see if mayb one of them is faulty.
I can't find my compression tester so will have to wait until tomorrow to borrow my dads to do that.
I've been and checked the plugs again and 1&2 are fine, 3&4 are sooted up again so guess they aren't firing as it feels like its on 2.Am going to do a fault code test now and try swapping 1&2 and 3&4 plugs around to see if mayb one of them is faulty.
I can't find my compression tester so will have to wait until tomorrow to borrow my dads to do that.
skiddusmarkus
Active Member
Fault code check comes up with 55: no fault with the above circuits.
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pulsarboby
Guest
you dont have to boost it to have a leak
any unmetered air entering the system past the afm will make it run like an old dog at idle or as soon as you tap the loud pedal.
i would be inclined to agree with the air leak as above, but then it could also be fowled plugs as you have stated.
any unmetered air entering the system past the afm will make it run like an old dog at idle or as soon as you tap the loud pedal.
i would be inclined to agree with the air leak as above, but then it could also be fowled plugs as you have stated.
skiddusmarkus
Active Member
Wouldn't that be a vacuum leak though, not a boost leak?
The plugs are definitely foulingas I only cleaned them friday afternoon and haven't driven, its just been run for maybe 2-3 minutes max and 3&4 have fouled up again.I cleaned them up again but now need to charge the battery again because of all the turning over its having to do.
While the battery is on charge I've finished off swapping all the jubille clips for Mikalors on the fmic, silicon sealanted the metal roof strips that rattle and insulated the turbo outlet with exhaust heat wrap and some foil backed cloth I have to try and keep heat soaking into it.
The plugs are definitely foulingas I only cleaned them friday afternoon and haven't driven, its just been run for maybe 2-3 minutes max and 3&4 have fouled up again.I cleaned them up again but now need to charge the battery again because of all the turning over its having to do.
While the battery is on charge I've finished off swapping all the jubille clips for Mikalors on the fmic, silicon sealanted the metal roof strips that rattle and insulated the turbo outlet with exhaust heat wrap and some foil backed cloth I have to try and keep heat soaking into it.
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pulsarboby
Guest
no as it will be on induction side (ie any boost or induction pipe from afm to throttle bodys)
if the car is running slightly rich then at idle it will take ages to burn off any fuel in the cylinderas, it could also be faulty plugs, dizzy cap, coil or amplifier module...in other words if your not getting a very strong spark then plugs will keep fowling up.
best bet is to stick a new set of plugs in it, clean out the segments on inside of dizzy cap, get her running and take it on a run so it gets to proper working temp and blasts out any unburnt or excess fuel in the system.
if the car is running slightly rich then at idle it will take ages to burn off any fuel in the cylinderas, it could also be faulty plugs, dizzy cap, coil or amplifier module...in other words if your not getting a very strong spark then plugs will keep fowling up.
best bet is to stick a new set of plugs in it, clean out the segments on inside of dizzy cap, get her running and take it on a run so it gets to proper working temp and blasts out any unburnt or excess fuel in the system.
skiddusmarkus
Active Member
I forgot to mention, i already cleaned out the dizzy cap.It didn't need it really as its almost brand new.I've also tried 2 different leads on 3&4(I have quite a lot of spare shit lying about) and they made it worse so don't think its the leads.The plugs only have 200 miles on them too.
I'll buy some cheapo plugs tomorrow if I get time and go from there.Just really hope its not something like the HG or rings.
I'll buy some cheapo plugs tomorrow if I get time and go from there.Just really hope its not something like the HG or rings.
I'd check for an air leak of any sort as these cars don't like them. I had the factory blow off valve hose come off and above idle it hated it. The hose itself was sat in such a way that it looked connected until I grabbed ut and moved it.
With your car being sat for so long a hose may have perished or cracked.
With your car being sat for so long a hose may have perished or cracked.
skiddusmarkus
Active Member
I've renewed every vacuum hose I can see with silicon stuff.I cannot easily get behind the inlet manifod to sort out those coming from there.The intercooler piping is tighter than a gnats chuff too.
Have also plumbed in an intercooler waterspray to the washer reservoir.It was previously wired to a switch with its own tank in the boot, now I just have it working off the rear washer jet as that doesn't get used anywhere near as much as the windscreen ones.
Have also plumbed in an intercooler waterspray to the washer reservoir.It was previously wired to a switch with its own tank in the boot, now I just have it working off the rear washer jet as that doesn't get used anywhere near as much as the windscreen ones.
skiddusmarkus
Active Member
I cleaned the MAF plug with WD40 last night and left it to dry then today I put 2 new plugds in 3&4(BCR8ES) and it fired up right away.The car spares shop only had 2 plugs, so I am going to order the other 2 off ebay as its cheaper anyway.
I also sprayed my forge front mount matt black and gave the mesh in my cutout bumper another coat of black.I'm not sure if it will cool any better but I think it looks more purposeful in black.
Something I did notice is the intercooler core is like new.When I meshed the bumper I got the finest mesh I could rather than the usual chicken wire type stuff most get.Its done its job anyway and protected the core really well.
I also semi fitted my sard fpr, its mostly plumbed in and mounted to a bracket near the coil but I came unstuck with removing the old fpr.The 2 screws are seized and there's no way they were shiting withotu wrecking the head so I've sprayed them with wd40 and am leaving them overnight.I don't hold much hope of them coming off though, so will probably end up drilling them out.
I also sprayed my forge front mount matt black and gave the mesh in my cutout bumper another coat of black.I'm not sure if it will cool any better but I think it looks more purposeful in black.
Something I did notice is the intercooler core is like new.When I meshed the bumper I got the finest mesh I could rather than the usual chicken wire type stuff most get.Its done its job anyway and protected the core really well.
I also semi fitted my sard fpr, its mostly plumbed in and mounted to a bracket near the coil but I came unstuck with removing the old fpr.The 2 screws are seized and there's no way they were shiting withotu wrecking the head so I've sprayed them with wd40 and am leaving them overnight.I don't hold much hope of them coming off though, so will probably end up drilling them out.
skiddusmarkus
Active Member
Forgot to say, did a compression test and it went(all in bar) 11.2, 11.8, 11.8, 11.8 .This was on a cold engine.
Heated oil
You should think about draining the oil and replacing it with new oil but slightly warm the oil before adding to engine bay help reach temperture required quicker. Or take off rocker cover use oil suirt can get all under the cams pre lub the parts but time doing all that though.
You should think about draining the oil and replacing it with new oil but slightly warm the oil before adding to engine bay help reach temperture required quicker. Or take off rocker cover use oil suirt can get all under the cams pre lub the parts but time doing all that though.
Have you put a new fuel filter on it?
It might have picked up some shite from the tank ot there may be abit of water in your tank from condensation building up over a couple of years.
Have you checked the hose on the inlet to the front mount. I remember someone had a problem years ago and it turned out to be this one as it's hidden behind the bumper.
It might have picked up some shite from the tank ot there may be abit of water in your tank from condensation building up over a couple of years.
Have you checked the hose on the inlet to the front mount. I remember someone had a problem years ago and it turned out to be this one as it's hidden behind the bumper.
skiddusmarkus
Active Member
I changed the fuel filter a few days ago.I've also replaced all the jubilees on the fmic for mikalor type clamps so the bumper is off atm anyway.
skiddusmarkus
Active Member
The standard fpr screws got trashed removing them so I bought some M5 bolts and used them instead.I had to cut one down to fit but no biggy.The fpr adapter I bought from ebay for my sard fpr didn't seal at all and pissed fuel past the o-ring.Also the sard fittings leaked too despite being in pretty tight.I replaced the ebay adapter for an FSE one I bought off Steve Pudney and that fixed that.I also used some ptfe tape on the sard fittings and the ebay fuel pressure guage which was also leaking down its threads and swapped a fuel jubilee clips on the fuel hoses and its tight as a gnats chuff now with no leaks.I've also moved the sard again onto a redundant bracket on the block near the inlet manifold as I wasn't happy with its location near the coil/leads.
I left the engine an hour or so to let the leaked petrol evaporate then tried to start it.It start ok, then the revs slowly fell until it stalled, so I checked the fuel pressure on the guage and it only read 25 psi or so.I adjusted it up to 45 psi and it idled much much better and stopped stalling after I revved it a couple of times.
I'd also replaced the plugs for 1&2 to match those in 3&4 and now 3&4 aren't just getting wet from the engine turning over and are the same colour as 1&2.I just want to check the gaps now and everything should be spot on at last.
I left the engine an hour or so to let the leaked petrol evaporate then tried to start it.It start ok, then the revs slowly fell until it stalled, so I checked the fuel pressure on the guage and it only read 25 psi or so.I adjusted it up to 45 psi and it idled much much better and stopped stalling after I revved it a couple of times.
I'd also replaced the plugs for 1&2 to match those in 3&4 and now 3&4 aren't just getting wet from the engine turning over and are the same colour as 1&2.I just want to check the gaps now and everything should be spot on at last.
skiddusmarkus
Active Member
I've checked the plugs and they were all at 0.7mm so regapped them 0.9mm as its only on 0.65 bar atm.Plugs 3&4 were quite sooty again though.
Am just waiting for battery to charge AGAIN! Bloody bonnet pin for alarm was knackered so an LED was constantly on and obviously tha massive power drain was enough to flatten it.I've replaced the pin so hopefully will be ok after that.
I am also going to put the doorcards back in today.I'd originally taken them out to save some weight but I am older now and cba with bits of wire hanging out of the doors and it rattling about.
Hopefully I will have time today to clean the last of the cruddy tar off the floor with turps and spray it black.I've got a couple of race seats to go in too(cobra suzuka and 2 cobra imolas, not 100% sure which to use yet).So will try and persuade the standard subframes to fit on the sidemounts without me banging my head on the roof.
Am just waiting for battery to charge AGAIN! Bloody bonnet pin for alarm was knackered so an LED was constantly on and obviously tha massive power drain was enough to flatten it.I've replaced the pin so hopefully will be ok after that.
I am also going to put the doorcards back in today.I'd originally taken them out to save some weight but I am older now and cba with bits of wire hanging out of the doors and it rattling about.
Hopefully I will have time today to clean the last of the cruddy tar off the floor with turps and spray it black.I've got a couple of race seats to go in too(cobra suzuka and 2 cobra imolas, not 100% sure which to use yet).So will try and persuade the standard subframes to fit on the sidemounts without me banging my head on the roof.
skiddusmarkus
Active Member
Ok, just had it running and still sounded like its on 2 so I pulled the leads off them 1 by 1(using pliers) and it made no difference, pulled 3 off and it stalls.So I took them out and the plugs are like new, not been fired.So I had the engine running and tested the leads with a spare plug in and they were sparking fine so it had to be a fuel problem.
Luckily in my spare parts grotto I have some 700cc blitz injectors waiting to go in after runin period so I just tested 2 of them in 1&2.Hey Presto car sounds normal again and actually revs so it looks like the injectors for 1&2 are either shagged or more likely blocked(despite me having them sonicly cleaned before the rebuild).
The blitz injectors are slightly bigger bore than the OE ones so are bit tighter to get in and I managed to pinch an o-ring fitting them which wrecked it.Luckily the Magic grotto had a spare FPR laying about so nabbed the o-ring off that(same size) and all was good.
All this has put me back a bit today but it seems I have finally got to the bottom of it.Now my dilemna, do I run in with 700cc injectors and risk bore wash or stop being a tight git and get the 2 injectors tested and cleaned?
Luckily in my spare parts grotto I have some 700cc blitz injectors waiting to go in after runin period so I just tested 2 of them in 1&2.Hey Presto car sounds normal again and actually revs so it looks like the injectors for 1&2 are either shagged or more likely blocked(despite me having them sonicly cleaned before the rebuild).
The blitz injectors are slightly bigger bore than the OE ones so are bit tighter to get in and I managed to pinch an o-ring fitting them which wrecked it.Luckily the Magic grotto had a spare FPR laying about so nabbed the o-ring off that(same size) and all was good.
All this has put me back a bit today but it seems I have finally got to the bottom of it.Now my dilemna, do I run in with 700cc injectors and risk bore wash or stop being a tight git and get the 2 injectors tested and cleaned?
skiddusmarkus
Active Member
Yeah I was joking on running it on 700ccs.It would just drink fuel and run poo.A place near me sonicly cleans them for £10-15 thats why I was going to do that.
A good feature on the blitz ones is they have ther own little stainless mesh filter in the top of each one.
A good feature on the blitz ones is they have ther own little stainless mesh filter in the top of each one.
skiddusmarkus
Active Member
I've had the injectors tested( got them to test before cleaning as no use paying to clean knackered ones) and they were blocked.Had them sonically cleaned which cost £37 
but at least I know they work now and got them to give me a few extra o-rings just in case.
I've also bought an angle grinder so I can chop the towing eye to clear the forge fmic piping and some new spades for the battery cable as I have moved it from the boot to just behind my seat against where the rear passengers legs would normally be and can lose probably 2-3 metres of heavy duty cable out of the back.The battery is an Odysey pc680 and only weighs about 7kg with better cranking than standard.I got a battery mount for it off ebay for about £20 and sprayed it black.
Hopefully it will stop raining so I can get these last little bits done and get it MOTed....assuming the headlight I need turns up.
but at least I know they work now and got them to give me a few extra o-rings just in case.I've also bought an angle grinder so I can chop the towing eye to clear the forge fmic piping and some new spades for the battery cable as I have moved it from the boot to just behind my seat against where the rear passengers legs would normally be and can lose probably 2-3 metres of heavy duty cable out of the back.The battery is an Odysey pc680 and only weighs about 7kg with better cranking than standard.I got a battery mount for it off ebay for about £20 and sprayed it black.
Hopefully it will stop raining so I can get these last little bits done and get it MOTed....assuming the headlight I need turns up.