servo removal

[pulsarboby]

went to look at dooie pop pops (stu's) car today for him!
it appears servo is working when you test it as the pedal drops on start up!
but when you drive it, it seems as though the servo is kaput ie its like driving a car with engine off and you really have to apply a lot of pressure to get vehicle to stop!

rear calipers hes fitted are fine and grabbing as they should, as are the fronts, theres no air in the system and master cylinder is fine!

this only really leaves the servo unit, i have another that he can fit, but how do you remove it with engine in situ?? can it be done by removing the oil filter and maybe the p/s pump, and dropping it out underneath??
or have you got to drop the whole lump down to gain access to it?
there must be someone on here who has tried to do this job, and knows whats involved!!

bloody nice car hes got there though8) will give my van a run for its money:lol: :lol: :lol:

 

[azboy]

generally if the servo is laeaking on idle pressing the brake pedal will affect the idle speed worth checking the pipes going to it too

 

[pulsarboby]

all pipes seem fine, its only when car is driven that servo appears to be doing nothing.
i have supplied stu with another servo unit to try!
cant think of anything else that it could possibly be.
but can it be removed with engine in situ?
i think it could possibly be done by removing p/s pump and oil filter and you may just have enough room to drop it through bottom, but ive never tried this so not really sure if it can be done! or if you have to drop the whole lump down to do it.

 

[Fast Guy]

He isn't left foot braking is he?

What about the one way valve? is it functioning and facing the right way?

 

[pulsarboby]

nope as i drove it to see for myself what brakes are like, and they truly are really bad.
its as though you have to stand on brakes to stop vehicle!
and with abs disconnected on a wet day, driving at 40, you should easily be able to lock the wheels up and put vehicle into skid mode! but nope, even with my 16 half stone banging down on it brakes will not lock up.
this evidentally only happened after new rear calipers were fitted, but he has done the job fine, and if you go into reverse and brake vehicle is dipping on rear and calipers are working fine, front and back!

 

[Fast Guy]

I know he's said there's no air in the system, but has it been double and treble checked?

 

[pulsarboby]

yep definately no air, and he has a good pedal, not spongy at all

 

[Dooie Pop Pop]

huge thanks for the parts too Bob your truely a star;-) hope everything goes well with the wedding...:-D

dont feel like shitting myself too badly now so im gonna have a crack at the bugger soon, i reckon i' ll be having the inlet off or tbh it might be easier to jack the car right up and drop the engine a foot to get the bugger off. im gonna check that its not that valve first though..

thanks again, stu

 

[Fast Guy]

One other thing I don't think anyone's mentioned? You haven't glazed the pads have you? that gives a very hard pedal and poor braking.

What causes brake pad glazing?
Brake pad glazing is caused when the brake pad friction material is overheated.
This results in crystallized friction material on the pad surface and the brake disc.
Typical symptoms of glazed brake pads include: Poor stopping performance, vibration or brake judder, and cracks or fissures in the brake pad material.
Pad glazing is typically caused by operating the brake pads at a temperature above the specified temperature range of the friction material or not properly following the 'Bedding-in' instructions for the brake pads. Always follow the manufacturers brake pad bedding-in instructions and use a brake pad that has a temperature range that is sufficient for its intended use.

Q: What are some noticeable signs that I have made the wrong pad choice for my motorsports racing application?
A: When a friction compound is used in a substantially higher temperature range than intended, the material can quickly lose its ability to perform correctly. Generally an overheated brake pad will continue to provide a hard pedal but require more foot and pedal effort to achieve even marginal performance. Continued use during this type of circumstance can result in complete brake pad failure.

It might be worth taking the pads off and trying to clean them up with abit of sandpaper or whatever and see if it improves things.

 

[Dooie Pop Pop]

the rear pads are brand new and need bedding in granted but they aint that bad this is definately something mechanical. iv been out and tried jumping on the brakes really hard and iv got no more braking pressure at 60mph than i have at 30:shock:

they are the same pad type that iv been using for the last three years...

 

[pulsarboby]

hi stu, did you have any joy with the brakes, or not got round to it yet!