reducer pipes

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pulsarboby

Guest
ok chaps, im actually in need of something for a change!
going to fit my 3071 tubby soon, but need a reducer pipe from 4'' down to standard pipe size (whatever that is, 3'' i believe), also need a 3'' to 2'' reducer for turbo to fmic pipe.
has anyone got these bits for sale, if not wheres best place to get them?

now have actuator and bracket, courtesy of gtir mic

i may also be looking for a wideband lambda, aftermarket turbo elbow and power fc with controller if anybody is flogging this stuff shortly!

one last question!
will the z32 afm fit a standard gtir induction kit and pipe, or do i need reducers or what ever to make it fit (havent even looked at it yet)?
 
stevepudney

stevepudney

GTiROC CHAIRMAN
Staff member
the standard sort of size for FMIC pipework is 65mm (2.5") so you'll need a 2.5" to 2" for the comp outlet to FMIC pipework.

Forge do good quality silicone reducers with (believe it or not ) quite good prices.

Heres your 2.5 to 2" click

but it doesn't look like they go up to 4" click

So you'll have to go to samco or someone for that click
 
Fazz

Fazz

New Member
Hi boby,

First of all good luck with the fitting! Ain't a nice job.
Say goodbye to drivers side fan too.


Assuming you have the 2.75" inlet, then you can get Samco's to match that - generally a 2.75" to 3" and out to Z32 and Induction.
IF you got a bigger inlet then you're fooked. Order the small one or you'll burn the car!!!

For turbo to FMIC pipe, I had to get a local fabricator to weld on an increaser - the turbo is small on exit and increased up to Samco pipes size - think I have the 2.5", possibly 3" can't remember.
Best to get this sorted before going to fit.

As for actuator, make sure you ahve it set correctly before fitting, goes without saying really but once its mounted it is near on impossible to adjust the son of a....

Not sure if Z323 will fit standard induction as mine is a tad bigger anyway...

I'd advise having all ready before hand, so take your turbo with you and get increaser added on, and make sure you have correct inlet pipes to fit...

After that, you're laughing!!!

I assume you have the Injectors??
 
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pulsarboby

Guest
cheers steve........... will give them a try



quote>Assuming you have the 2.75" inlet, then you can get Samco's to match that - generally a 2.75" to 3" and out to Z32 and Induction.
IF you got a bigger inlet then you're fooked. Order the small one or you'll burn the car!!!

For turbo to FMIC pipe, I had to get a local fabricator to weld on an increaser - the turbo is small on exit and increased up to Samco pipes size - think I have the 2.5", possibly 3" can't remember.
Best to get this sorted before going to fit.
As for actuator, make sure you ahve it set correctly before fitting, goes without saying really but once its mounted it is near on impossible to adjust the son of a....<quote






how do you set actuator correctly?
and when you say bigger inlet, i assume you mean the inlet housing side to afm pipe.....if so whats wrong with 4'' inlet on .86 housing, cant see as that would cause a prob as it will be reduced to standardish induction pipe size?
injectors are 700cc when fitted
and i already have braided lines off the standard tubby fitted!
 
Fazz

Fazz

New Member
I have the .86 housing also, but got the 2.75" inlet.

The 4" inlet won't clear the gearbox matey!!!

Is it standard mani?
 
Fazz

Fazz

New Member
actuator needs to be set as tight and wastegate closed all the way in order to build boost... then opens per controller as boost levels attained..
 
Trip

Trip

New Member
Fazz said:
Hi boby,

First of all good luck with the fitting! Ain't a nice job.
Say goodbye to drivers side fan too.


Assuming you have the 2.75" inlet, then you can get Samco's to match that - generally a 2.75" to 3" and out to Z32 and Induction.
IF you got a bigger inlet then you're fooked. Order the small one or you'll burn the car!!!
Click to expand...
Burn the car !!! HOW ?
 
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pulsarboby

Guest
cheers fazz for the good news:doh: will it fit if i get a wedge plate made up to throw it out from the g/box?
the manifold is an aftermarket one but has the same sort of clearance as a standard jobbie.
think il just have to rip the standard tubby off and offer it all up to see what sort of clearances, or lack of them i have.

is the actuator in a fully closed position with it off car (ie not under pressure) or does it work the other way, ie the opposite?
 
gtirx2

gtirx2

Active Member
Wastegate wants to be fully shut under no pressure, and when you fit the actulator you want to make sure the wastegate is fully shut and line the hole on the end of your actulator rod over the peg on your wastegate and shorten the actulator rod so you can see only about 1/3rd to nun of the peg though the hole then pull the rod over the peg so that the actulator is pulling the wastegate shut.You can pull it tighter by shortening the rod more but that means your turbo will make more boost when your boost controler is turned off and only running on actulator pressure its up to you, just make sure there is a good bit of force holding the wastegate shut.
 
stevepudney

stevepudney

GTiROC CHAIRMAN
Staff member
gtirx2 said:
Wastegate wants to be fully shut under no pressure, and when you fit the actulator you want to make sure the wastegate is fully shut and line the hole on the end of your actulator rod over the peg on your wastegate and shorten the actulator rod so you can see only about 1/3rd to nun of the peg though the hole then pull the rod over the peg so that the actulator is pulling the wastegate shut.You can pull it tighter by shortening the rod more but that means your turbo will make more boost when your boost controler is turned off and only running on actulator pressure its up to you, just make sure there is a good bit of force holding the wastegate shut.
Click to expand...
Rich, if you speak to the tech at Turbo Dynamics he will advise you see half the hole but I agree that it might pay to be a little tighter, I think I set mine to see a 1/4 of the peg (show 3/4 hole).

Rob, you have to set the actuator with the turbo off the car as you can't adjust the rod once it's all bolted back into position. The other peice of advice I'd give is regarding the small "e" clip that goes over the end of the wastegate lever/peg to stop the actuator rod from slipping off. They are normally made from really thin cheap nasty spring steel and as it's constantly getting heated up and cooling off it tends to rust very quickly and just fall apart (thats whats happened to 2 of mine anyway), so to avoid any potencial damage you can get stainless ones, I got some fom my local machine shop.
 
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gtirx2

gtirx2

Active Member
I have to admit i am still on a standed turbo atm but i set it a little on the tight side as i wanted more boost with the boost controler turned off.What boost are you running on your 3071 with your boost controller turned off?
 
stevepudney

stevepudney

GTiROC CHAIRMAN
Staff member
gtirx2 said:
I have to admit i am still on a standed turbo atm but i set it a little on the tight side as i wanted more boost with the boost controler turned off.What boost are you running on your 3071 with your boost controller turned off?
Click to expand...
No idea, I only have one setting on the profec b, 1.8 bar and I never turn it off :lol:
 
Fazz

Fazz

New Member
@ Bob - in relation to your 4" inlet mate, I'd seriously reconsider...

It would be nice to have but if you do a search on others who managed to fit, it really does seem a total pain...

Involves a wedge to move angle of turbo, and/or a wedge/extender onto the manifold where it olts to block to move the whole llot out far enough to clear the box. Only talking about an inch but its enough... and may need strenghtening therafter..

You can get a replacement 2.75" inlet from www.atpturbo.com for your 3071. I'm sure Turbo Dynamics do them as well.
Cost me €100 odd so not even £80 I'd expect...
Mine was the combination of confused order and mistake on their part - so I got it posted for free adn at a nice cheap cost. End result = I have a spare 4" Inlet if ever needed, the turbo went on and cleared the gearbox fine.. for the sake of a few pound I'd do it as wedge fabrication, fitting and time spent cursing yourself for taking it on is definitely worth it I think!!!

Some even shear a tad off the gearbox casing...

You have been warned!

Personally, I'm not sure the extra 1.25" is worth it... saying that she didn't mind last nite... :-o :lol:
 
stevepudney

stevepudney

GTiROC CHAIRMAN
Staff member
Also worth mentioning, I bought my 3071r direct from Turbo Dynamics and I was going to opt for the 4" inlet but when I asked Mano the question "what benifit is there in having the 4" inlet version" was told that you might see a 3 or 4 bhp in the top end but that would be traded off with a slightly slower spool up due to the slower air speed entering the comp inlet. It was then an easy to make my choice. 2.75 inlet with the .86ar turbine housing.
 
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ashills

Active Member
if you have an exhaust housing/side that is larger ie on the t3 based 3071-3076s then you will see alot better benefits to the 4" inlets as whole turbo can flow more air the smaller gt30s on t25 flanges are held back exhaust being so small and internal wastegate
 
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pulsarboby

Guest
okekoke
thanks for the help chaps, all news to me! i did however expect a bit of finger bashing and blood flowing:lol:
il probably stick with the 4'' inlet and get a wedge made up to throw it out far enough, seeing as ive already got it!
anyone know what sort of wedge were talking about (size wise) will it be like 10mm down to say 2mm? or what!
 
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pulsarboby

Guest
cheers for the link.
looks like a right git of a job!
i may have to consider the smaller inlet, depends if im up for the challenge when i get round to it, or not, as the case may be lol
 
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