rear disc,s

K

kengtir

Guest
have to change the discs rear that is told that the wear rate has been reached so new disc replacement, need to now the size of the socket, to take the said nut off cheers all and thanks???
 

Shaun

New Member
:-D Hi mate,what nut are you trying to remove?To remove your rear discs,jack up the car and support it with axle stands,remove the wheel and then release the hand brake,remove the caliper and then the caliper bracket,the disc should then just fall off,if its stuck,close to the centre of the disc are 2 threaded holes,put a spare bolt in either hole and tighten similtaniously unit it releases the disc.Fitting is reverse of removing.
 
K

kengtir

Guest
Shaun said:
:-D Hi mate,what nut are you trying to remove?To remove your rear discs,jack up the car and support it with axle stands,remove the wheel and then release the hand brake,remove the caliper and then the caliper bracket,the disc should then just fall off,if its stuck,close to the centre of the disc are 2 threaded holes,put a spare bolt in either hole and tighten similtaniously unit it releases the disc.Fitting is reverse of removing.
shaun you ife saver cheers mate ill have a go monday thanks again ken
 
K

kengtir

Guest
hi job done good one all and thanks cheers ken? engine rebuild done running in but back off the road? why clutch i brought of ebay has disided not to play what?
well went do the town looked for a parking place and just started to turn around and park in the space stoped then no drive ie sellect gear and push in clucth lift up clutch enige rev drop up to bite nothing just rubbing noise and no drive how do i change the clucth with engine in situe,is there a quick method of doing this cheers need help and thanks ken
 

houghy_1

Member
Yeas there is a quicker way of doing it.

Without going into detail...

Lower the engine on passenger side engine mount,and go at the gearbox from that way etc...
Thats how a guy up here did my clutch and a few others around manchester area.
Hes got it down to a t now.

Someone with the right technical knowledge will expand on that.

Matt
 
O

Odin

Guest
Its only a couple of hours to drop the whole engine, I've done it both ways now and dropping the engine is by far the best way in my humble opinion.


Rob
 
J

jpward

Guest
Thunder God said:
Its only a couple of hours to drop the whole engine, I've done it both ways now and dropping the engine is by far the best way in my humble opinion.


Rob
What about all the ancills Rob what do you have to unplug/remove as minimum as i feel a new clutch on the horizon and 2 before were done "all out" jobs and costly too:cry:
 
O

Odin

Guest
You just have to unplug the engine loom from the drivers side of the engine bay, The connector block is beside the washer bottle filler, Then take Rad out and remove the front engine mount bar (6 bolts) and a nut and bolt through engine mount it's self, You will also need to remove the power steering hose from its conector (drivers side strut top) , I think the reservoir for the power steering will need to come off its mount as well, Its been so long since I did mine now I've probably forgot some stuff.

Plus the exhaust will need removing of cause and the gear linkage and prop sharft
and any braces you have fitted, Just have a good look at it mate you will see whats needed, Its just a bit of common sense.

But it took me all of two hours to drop it last time, Its also a good way of checking over the whole engine as you don't get to the back of it very often lol, Probably a good time to check and replace all the rubber hoses you can never see or get to hehehe.

Rob
 
J

jpward

Guest
Cheers Rob

Reason i asked is cos the guys that used to do my work well it took 2 men 6 hours to drop the lump and similar to refit only there were a few clips and bolts the disapeared so wasnt impressed :evil:

At least i know now i could get a friend to do it and help him and save alot of agro and garage fee's!
 
K

kengtir

Guest
thanks for the replys and glad to see it helps out other on the forum cheers all ken
 
Top