Pulsar coming back to life

Eng1

Member
Some sunny days coming up ,so moving forward along the underside of the car .
not too bad underneath,mostly surface rust where it was stood and years of road crud old oil leaks , rubbers and bushes all look good .
Today fitted a solid gear shift mount (old one was perfect and little change to feel )and lower brace .
Question- has anybody used a laminova oil cooler?
I already have an normal oil cooler which sits on top of the engine , where the original intercooler was.
It works fine but looks cluttered in the bay .
I have a mocal laminova cooler which has the same oil fittings but is considerably smaller and easier to hide .
I also have a remote water stat (a billet housing with stock size stat in it) about 10cm long , so I can T in from the stock water line and supply the cooler with radiator water in a loop and choose a stat temp .
This would give good oil warm up and constant oil temps .
Or I could use the charge cooler water supply as the water lines are the same size and overcool the oil which would mean having it switched by solenoid only when oil temps rise too high then off again when they drop and need monitoring as you hoon around but have a fast warm up (the current cooler does add a Considerable time to oil warm up )
 

Eng1

Member
Moving forwards along the car , and dinitrol
Sprayed in all the hidden areas with under seal applied to the visible areas , looks like a long term steering rack weep on drivers side has protected much underneath but was very messy !
Fitted a lower brace , Cusco , but for the life of me I can’t see how it would work? It’s bolted to chassis box section , double skin with factory spot weld , just about the strongest part of the whole chassis ! If there was any movement the welds would
Pop
It also only gives me about 1 mm clearance with the exhaust down pipe so I expect a tap tap as the engine rocks
Engine was fresh rebuild and the gearbox is quaife rebuilt with my own selector forks ,new bearings and external brace fitted , all looks good and no leaks , all the lines behind the engine were replaced when the engine was out
So onto the front -fmic out and chargecooler rad in time ...
 

Eng1

Member
Slight delay due to the alarm /immobiliser playing up - so I removed the damn thing along with a turbo timer that was previously fitted .
Wiring now back to as it was pre alarm .
So front off next and fmic out , if anyone wants a fmic and pipework (£50) let me know -looks in good order , but a bit too small for any of my other cars
 

Eng1

Member
And chargecooler layout here , bit of a squeeze but first mock up , the boost pipes are kept real short .
Weighed the two fmic/charge cooler and charge cooler is 2.5 kg more in total , think I can cope with that

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Eng1

Member
The cooler rad (aluminium) has 2 fans on , but I doubt I’ll need them , it should always be cold to the touch , as water takes a Massive amount of heat energy to heat up .
If stationary for long periods in traffic say , you are off boost so little heat produced , but I suspect putting the fans on will cool the chargecooler rad and the normal rad , so the normal rad fans never come on . Only testing will tell
 

Eng1

Member
Dinitrol - this area has been dinitrol coated , you can see the brown puddling where I couldn’t be arsed wiping it off , it’s pretty clear when done nicely , I didn’t !
BUT it will take water spray at 200 mph and remain!! It leeches into gaps and will work for 30 years !! It is a hard coat once dry and can be removed with white spirit on flat surfaces ,in gaps I don’t think you could ever get it out .
If wanting concours then maybe not for you but if you just don’t want corrosion,way to go !!

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Eng1

Member
Chargecooler is in (temp fit and wire ) ,so I filled it (just over 3.5 litres ) and tested , it self bled in 20 seconds (used clear pipe section so I can see any air bubbles ) then I ran for two hours - perfect ,good flow and turnover of water .
Pump is rubber mounted but you can still hear it running (a buzz) , which is a good thing as you can know it’s running before starting engine .
The buzz is different if air is present so you will also know if you have a leak
Final fit and wire routing over the weekend and then some testing 4AE0661C-FC63-4961-B432-3E8439E195A2.jpeg4AE0661C-FC63-4961-B432-3E8439E195A2.jpeg
 

Eng1

Member
Wiring continues , I’ve combined 3 circuits into one new loom , chargecooler pump , fans , and front fog lights , and run it to the bulkhead inside of the car .
The 3 relays tucked in nicely to the inner wings .
I’ve got an oem fog light switch to fit next to the HRW switch in the blank .
The fog lights came with a loom /relay but oddly the connectors are H7 and the beams fitted are H1 ??
So I guess someone fitted the wrong 6 inch beam bulbs .
I’m thinking of fitting new 6 inch beams ,so choices :, yellow?, clear with led halo? Clear?led? , daylight covers? Covers with logo ? Nissan logo ? GT and IR ? What’s best ?
 

Eng1

Member
Wiring continues, had to remove the front arch liner to run cables , So had the chance to inspect the front of sill area and inner wing area - it was mint , not a spec of rust , so rustproofed and undersealed . I think the long time the car was in Japan before import has kept the rust bug away , I’ve found little or no rust in all the favourite areas
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