Power FC standard settings

[Paul R]

I've already been thinking of this. It is a pro and it will have launch control etc. My guess was the F/C options in the idle setup are where this is set. I have wound both these up to 7500rpm just in case.

Just tried it, feels strange with a few pops and bangs 8) It's the second one down on the list which came set to 7500 when new. Not sure how long the manifold/turbo will last using it though.

It's not connected with the A/C switch but I think they were limited as to what it could be called as the same commander (415-N001) is used for some Scoobies/GTR's and other SR20DET's. That bit is still in Japanese as it was on a separate sheet so I don't have an electronic copy. The separate sheet has a little bit of english which says AC on and off for that option.

Big hint for anyone getting a PFC or PFC PRO before they start using the universal commander (415-X001) get one from Andy Forrest or other Scooby tuner/mapper my mate got one for ~ £80! How gutted was I!!!!

Potentially a huge penny has just dropped here. My previous system has an ECU with an A/F modify piggy backed through a daughter board. The boost control was a Blitz E-SBC with a single switch selector for changing between standard, 1.2 and 1.5 Bar. I couldn't find the control unit and have had most of the dash a apart in the past but assumed it must have been very carefully hidden away. I think the PO has already done what you suggested (Nice idea 8) ) It has an an external boost gauge running from a tee already that replaces the standard. I'll have to have a good look at the wiring diagram for the car and see if I can't start tracing what's exactly going on. It would explain why swapping to the old ECU makes things better again.

Not quite, I don't think the Blitz switch would have anything to do with the daughterboard. Follow the wire from the switch and see where they lead to. As long as the all the wires going from the loom to the ECU/PFC are all connected without going through some other piggy back unit then you should be fine. Are you using the normal boost control solinoid? Is the Blitz system still in use? Did the switch work on the previous ECU? Are there any other "extra" bits

Thanks for confirming the readings.

No probs, I checked and thats what they were apart from the O2 which was sat at 0.01v after I pulled up but thats a separate issue.

my wife got 8 ton of top soil delivered outside the garage on Wednesday. A fantastic security measure :lol:

LMAO :lol: well that'll do it

 

[campbellju]

Alright Paul

Done nothing more tonight as the weekend is on us so I can have a godd go then

Just tried it, feels strange with a few pops and bangs

That's it!! the more you push the accelerator, the more pops and bangs you get. If you feather it up to the limit it just sounds like a soft rev limiter.

It's the second one down on the list which came set to 7500 when new.

My thinking was the second one down is with A/C off, the third one down is A/C on. If the second one is set at 7500rpm with A/C off and the third on is set at 5000rpm with A/C on. The A/C would be like a launch control switch ? Just a theory. Failing that, I can't understand the purpose of the second F/C limit?

Not quite, I don't think the Blitz switch would have anything to do with the daughterboard. Follow the wire from the switch and see where they lead to. As long as the all the wires going from the loom to the ECU/PFC are all connected without going through some other piggy back unit then you should be fine. Are you using the normal boost control solinoid? Is the Blitz system still in use? Did the switch work on the previous ECU? Are there any other "extra" bits

The E-SBC looks like an early version of the SBC-R, dual solenoid boost controller. I think it was only sold in Japan from my research. I can't find an actual controller though which for a scramble type boost controller doesn't make sense? It could be hidden behind glove box somewhere but a 2 core blue/white cable goes from the swictch and a similar if not the same arrives at the dual solenoid unit. Feedback comes from the aftermarket boost gauge that used to hold boost quite steady. I can't see what limits the boost on the solenoids as they seem to be in a contained box with no adjustments? The switch used to work fine with the ECU/piggyback fueling system.

Jim

 

[Paul R]

That's it!! the more you push the accelerator, the more pops and bangs you get. If you feather it up to the limit it just sounds like a soft rev limiter.

Yep thats the one, second one on the list.

The A/C would be like a launch control switch ? Just a theory. Failing that, I can't understand the purpose of the second F/C limit?

I would ignore the A/C part of it, thats just for if the engine has any non-electrical extra load. I didn't use the switch (and I've disconnected all the A/C) to enable or disable it.

The first entry (7500) is a proper rev limit.
The second entry (7500) is in effect under 10m/h (or 10km/h if not de-restricted)
The third entry (1250) - haven't got the foggiest :roll: I'll see if I can translate it somehow. The only english part of the sentence is "(A/C ON&OFF)".

The E-SBC looks like an early version of the SBC-R, dual solenoid boost controller. I think it was only sold in Japan from my research. I can't find an actual controller though which for a scramble type boost controller doesn't make sense? It could be hidden behind glove box somewhere but a 2 core blue/white cable goes from the swictch and a similar if not the same arrives at the dual solenoid unit.

I've got the single solinoid Blitz controller so I don't know how many wires go to it. How many pipes do you have going to and from the solinoid? Almost sounds like that is the controller itself.

The switch used to work fine with the ECU/piggyback fueling system.

Thing is did it connect to the ECU at all, is anything plugged into the standard boost cut solinoid connectors?

Had a look a the side connector yesterday for the MAP sensor plug in, it has three pins so I'll check with the multimeter in a bit (just got to check the knock sensor wires) and see if I can butcher the standard gauge

 

[campbellju]

Hi Paul,

thanks for all this, I've got loads on at the mo as I've only just got back but I'll have a play again when I get a bit of time.

Cheers,
Jim

 

[Edd]

Just to confirm the second entry only works if your speedo signal senses 0km/h not 10

i know this as i used to use the launch control on my powerfc quite often and if you were at a junction and rolled back/forward slightly it would cut off and you'd hit the normal limiter

hence as soon as you drop the clutch and yuo get motion that limiter stops working and you have the normal limiter back into effect

 

[Paul R]

Ahh cheers for the clarification, I'll have a play sometime. What limit did you set out of curiosty?

 

[AJ4]

The third entry (1250) - haven't got the foggiest :roll: I'll see if I can translate it somehow. The only english part of the sentence is "(A/C ON&OFF)".

That setting is the fuel recovery setting. When you come off the gas, the injectors are switched off to save fuel and help emmisions etc. That rpm is what you want the injectors to switch back on at ( ie, so it doesn't stall when the engine falls back to idle).

If you set it too low, the engine hunts up and down in a continuous loop. If you set it too high, you get lovely pops and bangs as the fuel comes back on and hits the nice warm turbo 8) Mine is set to 2000 rpm.

 

[AJ4]

Just out of interest, my settings are -

7200
5200
2000
950
950

Remember one important lesson though, it will still idle at whatever it bloody well wants to, regardless of what idle you set it Mine is set to 950 but idles anywhere between 1100 and 1500 rpm. I can adjust it up electronically but only down as far as the mechanical limit, ie, 1100 rpm.

 

[Paul R]

Just out of interest, my settings are -

7200
5200
2000
950
950

Remember one important lesson though, it will still idle at whatever it bloody well wants to, regardless of what idle you set it Mine is set to 950 but idles anywhere between 1100 and 1500 rpm. I can adjust it up electronically but only down as far as the mechanical limit, ie, 1100 rpm.

I'll try the 2k recovery setting out of interest. Mines consistently idling quicker now over the last week or so. Nothing has been changed or fiddled with :?

Before the PFC it used to idle at ~950 (one of the rare ones) and even after fitting it thats what it was, recently it's around 1150 and sometimes dips to ~950 but then shoots back up to the previous amount, kind of like lazy hunting every 10 seconds or so. Maybe theres some electrical load on there I'm not considering and thats changing something *shrug*

 

[AJ4]

lol, it'll idle at whatever it bloody well likes at the end of the day, its a Pulsar , there are about 15 things that govern our idle system, and it only takes one or two of them to be slightly out to cause weird problems :evil:

The idle circuit on the PFC definately has a self learn function. When my cars in my garage I disconnect the battery to stop it going flat. When I reconnect it I have to go through the self learn procedure or the car runs and idles like crap. If I don't, it eventually sorts itself out but it takes ages.

 

[campbellju]

Cheers AJ4/Edd, the mists of PFC idle tuning are starting to clear.

Jim