Power FC standard settings

[campbellju]

I've bought a PowerFC pro from another owner who had it setup for 700cc injectors and around 480bhp.

Not a problem I thought as there will be a master reset to set it all back to standard. Why standard? Because the engine has just been re-built, its not got an MOT and its not been run in yet and will need to pass an emissions test etc. In the future it will be getting setup by a professional but I've got a short term problem of getting it to run at standard boost for the next 500 miles. My previous setup was for 1.4 Bar so that will be far too rich if I swap back to without getting it setup by a professional again.
So...

After reading the excellents posts by AJ4 and Ginga (RIP ) and checking over the manual for the RX7 that is posted, I've got a good understanding of what I need to do to get it to work. For the moment I'm running standard injectors so if I knew what the standard settings are I could plug them in and tweak them for idle. I believe the 440cc injectors are the 100% flow but I couldn't say what the timing is ? My guess is 0ms but I could be completely wrong. For the fueling and ignition maps, my guess is they will be completely wrong too but I couldn't say what they should be.

I just need it to start, run safely, get to the MOT station (not running too rich) and then make a 50 mile trip to the tuners.

Anyone got the original maps in excel or couple of pointers?

Cheers,
Jim.

 

[Anonymous]

couldn't you just put in a std ecu and injectors with reduced boost levels :?:

or the std settings for the power fc are not bad as some of the peeps and a couple of tuners will testify to :lol: :lol: :lol:

 

[campbellju]

couldn't you just put in a std ecu and injectors with reduced boost levels :?:

or the std settings for the power fc are not bad as some of the peeps and a couple of tuners will testify to :lol: :lol: :lol:

My standard ECU isn't that standard so unless I got that tweaked wouldn't work very well. I figured at worst the standard settings would be conservative which is fine by me at the moment.

I thought some people with the dayalogit might have dumped the settings to PC before they starting tweaking and I could (slowly) plug them back in through the commander.

 

[gtir350]

Yer standards should be 100% and 0ms time change .

You should be able to find the reset to factory settings also,

Dave

 

[campbellju]

Thanks for the confirmation Dave. 8)

I don't suppose you know where the rest to factory settings option is? I couldn't see on in the RX7 manual or in the menu's. Am I just being blind?

Cheers, Jim

 

[Paul R]

settings

I'll post up the settings later today for the PFC PRO. I've copied the base Ign and Inj maps to Micro$oft Excel so thay can be looked at easier (someone might be able to compare the PRO and non-PRO base maps if they have one).

Also I've got a copy of the only english version of the commander they did which is the Mazda version, but I've also got the Japanese unprotected version of the manual for the 405-N001 commander for the R and Scoobs.

With the unprotected version you can copy and paste the text from Acrobat into the online BabelFish japanese to english translator to get the differences. After which pretty much most of it is understandable.

Your location says UK-NW, whereabouts PM me if you like I'm in N.Wales.

 

[Paul R]

Standard settings taken from the PowerFC PRO

Right then as promised these are the settings as delivered (took abit longer than expected my server is having a bad day :/):

The Ignition and Injection maps can be found here here.

The Mazda manual is here.

The unprotected manual is here.

These are the other base settings:

Airflow

Using RNN14 Normal (although all types are currently the same settings)

1. 0.64v 100%
2. 1.28v 100%
3. 1.92v 100%
4. 2.56v 100%
5. 3.20v 100%
6. 3.84v 100%
7. 4.48v 100%
8. 5.12v 100%

Injector

No.s 1-6 All 100% & +0.00ms

Acceleration Injection time

5000rpm 4.5ms 1.5ms
4000rpm 4.8ms 1.2ms
3000rpm 5.0ms 1.0ms
2000rpm 4.3ms 0.7ms
1000rpm 3.2ms 0.5ms

Cranking Inj time

+80 8ms
+50 13ms
+30 20ms
+10 30ms
-10 50ms
-30 90ms

Water temp correction

+80 1.00 1.00
+50 1.12 1.18
+30 1.23 1.35
+10 1.37 1.54
-10 1.51 1.75
-30 1.75 2.00

Rev/idle

Rev limit 7500rpm
F/C A/C Off 7500rpm
F/C A/C On 1150rpm
IDLE A/C Off 900rpm
IDLE A/C On 950rpm

In etc, prog version SR205PRO FC v3.122/Commander2 v8.13

Also in etc is the "All Data Initialize" function, not sure if this puts it back to these settings or not.

 

[campbellju]

Cheers for all your help Paul, I've downloading everything and will now get busy on the commander. 8)

Cheers,
Jim

 

[campbellju]

I'll wear the dunce cap as the intialise button does seem to reset the values to the factory original rather than send the settings to flash as I' thought. Strangely there were 4 small differences on my map and Paul's but nothing to worry about. the software and commander version's were the same too.

After having the car run like a bag of spanners and not start for a while, the penny dropped and i remembered AJ4 had a similar problem before he'd reset his boost controller setting (That had switched itself on again when I reset the ECU)

The car then still ran like a bag of spanners but at least it started. It didn't like an manual intervention with a bit of throttle either and just popped at 500rpm above what it was wanting to run at??? So figuring this must be hte self learning mode, I left it alon for 10 minutes and looked to see what has happening through all the monitoring settings. It looked like it was hunting but still running like a bag of spanners.

After 10 minutes I decided to switch on all the elctrical things in the car, no change in idle speed and still running rubbish. After a further 10 minutes I clicked my A/C button for what it was worth as the're nothing cconnected.

I left it for anoother couple of minutes and the car settled at a nice idle of 1500rpm :shock:

Call that self learning mode?? I know I've got some high lift cams etc but before I was able to tweak a rough idle at 1100 and a good one at 1250. If after all the self learning it just runs at 1500, I wouldn't say it learnt that much. I'm not sure if I was getting impatient at that point as the car still wouldn't rev past 2000.

It was getting late and I was probably upsetting the neighbours by this point so called it a night.

I'm going to check my plugs tomorrow in case there is a physical problem but my gut feeling is the power FC hasn't completed its learning cycle yet as I kept switching the car on and off for various reasons. I'll try tomorrow for a continuous 30 minutes with my watch out this time but has anyone had any experience of this.

Cheers,
Jim.

 

[Paul R]

Strangely there were 4 small differences on my map and Paul's but nothing to worry about. the software and commander version's were the same too.

Oops that might be me, well there were 800 cells to copy. Let me know which ones they are and I'll have a look.

After having the car run like a bag of spanners and not start for a while, the penny dropped and i remembered AJ4 had a similar problem before he'd reset his boost controller setting (That had switched itself on again when I reset the ECU)

Funny thing about that, I had to switch the ignition off before it would take the setting. If I tried to start the car just after changing it then it wouldn't take the setting and the car would fail to run.

Call that self learning mode?? I know I've got some high lift cams etc but before I was able to tweak a rough idle at 1100 and a good one at 1250. If after all the self learning it just runs at 1500, I wouldn't say it learnt that much. I'm not sure if I was getting impatient at that point as the car still wouldn't rev past 2000.

Curiously I didn't have a problem with self learning, it just idled fine at ~950 rpm from the outset. Not reving over 2k doesn't sound too clever though and I don't know if that is because of the self learning or something more fundamental like a MAF setting. Do any of the sensors show up hilighted in the sensor check.

Also does the datalogit show any other settings to which might need chaning and wouldn't be altered in the initialize setting? Such as if the previous owner had a different MAF etc...

 

[campbellju]

Hello Paul,

There were 4 changes only:

N04 N05
L03 2294 101 101
L11 7412 104 106

They could be typos but are not that significant either way.

I also found you had to switch off and on again for the settings to take which is what had confused me into thinking the initialise button was doing something else.

I don't have a datalogit unfortunately which would probably tell me more clearly what is going on. I'll have to go through everything slowly and check all sensors. If it is the MAF, I've got a Z32 to go in at least

The cams are 270 and the engine is still extremly tight but the rev so I would expect a high idle but the 500rpm over seems bizzare. Everytime you press the accelerator it sounds like its running on 2 cylinders and it won't go above 500rpm the idle.

I'll just have to spend more time and go through it all slowly with all the manuals to hand etc.

Cheers for your support,
Jim

 

[Paul R]

Whoops my bad checked with mine and your right must of copied them down wrong, will upload the spreadsheet again.

Unless there is something physically wrong (like an air leak) I wouldn't expect you not to be able to rev over 2k unless some lowlevel setting was different.

Has the idle settled down now?

 

[campbellju]

I'm still at work at the mo but will need to go shortly before I get to upsetting neighbour times for revving a car constantly for nearly an hour :lol:

I'll change the plugs reset the machine, enter an idle of 1250, swicth off and on the ignition :roll: and then see how I get on.

If its bad I'll swap back to the old ECU nad check I can rev above 2K. If so, I'll change back again and start looking at senors etc like you suggested. My old ECU with the piggy back could be ignoring something and open loop where as the PowerFC might be failing its closed loop control because of it.

Cheers,
Jim

 

[Thor]

hi there,

can anybody tell me where i can make self learning on the Power FC? My R dosn´t run good and he is very very to rich and puffs at the exhaust. und 1000 rpm it runs bad and sounds bad too!

Thx
Sascha

 

[campbellju]

Not me I'm afraid sascha

After a garage full of carbon monoxide later I decide it was time to quit before I disturbed the neighbours too much.

I'm not convinced the learn mode does anything for idle. The only learn mode I can find in the RX7 manual is for boost control, not idle. Also the RX7 manual shows an idle hold option that isn't on the R version too. The R doesn't have an electrical load switch in the FC, everything points to the fact the R doesn't have a learn mode.

The idle seems to get better as the engine warms up rather than a special learn mode. I could be wrong but I'd welcome other people's experience.

Changing the idle settings might solve your problem sascha but it could be something more subtle like the injection and ignition maps.

After reading the manaul many times, I think I might be geting a fuel cut from the boost controller so I'm off to disturb the neighbours just one more time tonight.

 

[Paul R]

I'm not convinced the learn mode does anything for idle. The only learn mode I can find in the RX7 manual is for boost control, not idle. Also the RX7 manual shows an idle hold option that isn't on the R version too. The R doesn't have an electrical load switch in the FC, everything points to the fact the R doesn't have a learn mode.

Not sure about the learn mode for the R but it would seem like a sound idea. Every car is different to a degree. Mine ran fine after installing it but other people (and not just the R version have had to do this before it would idle properly).

The R's version does have an idle setting though, this is in the Rev/Idle menu which shows settings for rev limit and the idle settings. The electrical load is not a switch but when there is a load on the engine through the alternator. The PFC will have to raise the base idle a little.

The idle seems to get better as the engine warms up rather than a special learn mode.

That might be more to do with the temperature enrichment values, if the PFC was running too rich then adding more fuel as the engine is colder will not help.

After reading the manaul many times, I think I might be geting a fuel cut from the boost controller so I'm off to disturb the neighbours just one more time tonight.

Do you have the boost module plugged in and enabled? If not then the boost reading is not known as that was not one of the inputs to the original ECU. To use the boost module you need to plug a MAP sensor into the side of the PFC.
The PFC will only cut the ignition (PRO) if the boost module is used.

Also unless the boost pressure is set to 0.00 on your selected boost channel then you should still be able to rev over 2k.

Regardless of the idle speed I'm really curious why it won't rev over 2k, thats not right.

What actually happens?

Just as a comparison, I get the car idling tomorrow and I'll note down rough values from the sensor/sw screen as a comparison (particularly the O2 and airflow sensor).


Sascha

Seems to be a hot topic at the moment but are you using the default settings or has the map been changed?

 

[campbellju]

I'm not convinced the learn mode does anything for idle. The only learn mode I can find in the RX7 manual is for boost control, not idle. Also the RX7 manual shows an idle hold option that isn't on the R version too. The R doesn't have an electrical load switch in the FC, everything points to the fact the R doesn't have a learn mode.

Not sure about the learn mode for the R but it would seem like a sound idea. Every car is different to a degree. Mine ran fine after installing it but other people (and not just the R version have had to do this before it would idle properly).

The R's version does have an idle setting though, this is in the Rev/Idle menu which shows settings for rev limit and the idle settings. The electrical load is not a switch but when there is a load on the engine through the alternator. The PFC will have to raise the base idle a little.

The idle seems to get better as the engine warms up rather than a special learn mode.

That might be more to do with the temperature enrichment values, if the PFC was running too rich then adding more fuel as the engine is colder will not help.

After reading the manaul many times, I think I might be geting a fuel cut from the boost controller so I'm off to disturb the neighbours just one more time tonight.

Do you have the boost module plugged in and enabled? If not then the boost reading is not known as that was not one of the inputs to the original ECU. To use the boost module you need to plug a MAP sensor into the side of the PFC.
The PFC will only cut the ignition (PRO) if the boost module is used.

Also unless the boost pressure is set to 0.00 on your selected boost channel then you should still be able to rev over 2k.

Regardless of the idle speed I'm really curious why it won't rev over 2k, thats not right.

What actually happens?

Just as a comparison, I get the car idling tomorrow and I'll note down rough values from the sensor/sw screen as a comparison (particularly the O2 and airflow sensor).


Sascha

Seems to be a hot topic at the moment but are you using the default settings or has the map been changed?

After disturbing the neighbours one more time I'm still not much further forward. Being more methodical with my approach has taught me more than yesterday.

My plugs are covered in carbon deposits as my old contoller used to run quite rich. After getting similar results to last night, I decided to swap to my old ECU/controller combo. This started first time (warm engine?) and quite happily revved away. Rich or not, it worked fine. This is my current fall back position as I know a garage about 25 miles away who's emissions machine doesn't work

Plugged back in the PowerFC and the only way I can describe it is like a fuel cut. Now I'm getting the hang of switching on/off between changes I found playing with the fuel cut settings in the idle screen had some afffect and I could rev up to nearly 3000rpm but no more. Last night it sounded like a misfire but I think I has my FC and idle settings too close so the ECU was getting confused. Now at 3000rpm it sounds like a softer rev limter and additional throttle just makes the limit more aggressive.

At this point I was looking through the manual for fuel cut information and found the boost caution in the RX7 manual. I've just been out now and raised them but as you guessed its had no affect. I don't have the PowerFC boost controller but I'm tempted to upgrade to keep all the control in the same place. The boost controller option is off too.

For settings, I don't think I've seen the injector cycle ever get above 20% and its typically 2.5% at idle. From memeory, my MAF is reading 550mV when the engine is off and about 1200mV at idle rising to a peak of about 1500mV.

Chnaging the O2 f/B option seems to have no affect and my lambda sensor is between 0.2V and 0.4V at idle. I think after fuel cut (?) 3000rpm it peaked at about 0.9V on the overrun and then settled back to normal.

Reducing the injector corerection value from 1.0 to 0.900 in the real time menu seemed to smooth the idle but I still had the same fuel cut problem. My thought is it might be running rich due to the uprated fuel pump but I think this is a seperate problem to the 3000rpm issue.

At first glance all the sensors and switches seem to be working and the way the old ECU ran makes me think it is a software rather than hardware issue. My only thought left is if there truly is a self learn mode and I'm not convinced I've left the car alone for 30 minutes non stop yet as I keep fiddling between tests etc.

This is my next plan, I'll keep yo uinformed.

Jim

 

[campbellju]

Its far too late but after doing some searching I found this:

http://forum.gtiroc.com/phpbb2/view...ostorder=asc&highlight=powerfc+tuning&start=0

It might answer both our problems. My brain's not working to take it all in at the mo so I'll read it again after some sleep.

Jim

 

[Paul R]

Plugged back in the PowerFC and the only way I can describe it is like a fuel cut. Now I'm getting the hang of switching on/off between changes I found playing with the fuel cut settings in the idle screen had some afffect and I could rev up to nearly 3000rpm but no more. Last night it sounded like a misfire but I think I has my FC and idle settings too close so the ECU was getting confused. Now at 3000rpm it sounds like a softer rev limter and additional throttle just makes the limit more aggressive.

At this point I was looking through the manual for fuel cut information...

I've just had a horrible thought. Do you have the PRO? If so then one of the settings, AFAIK and I haven't tried it, is for the "launch control" ignition cut at low rpm feature which will cut in under 10mph. Have you tried it with the car moving?

I'll have a go today to see if I can replicate it, disturb my neighbours a bit

I don't have the PowerFC boost controller but I'm tempted to upgrade to keep all the control in the same place.

I don't to but I'm looking into using either the standard MAP sensor and redirecting the wires to the PFC rather than the defunct boost gauge or using a different MAP sensor. Also I'll use the solinoid I have for my Blitz controller instead and wire it into the standard boostcut connector for a DIY system controlled by the PFC.

For settings, I don't think I've seen the injector cycle ever get above 20% and its typically 2.5% at idle. From memeory, my MAF is reading 550mV when the engine is off and about 1200mV at idle rising to a peak of about 1500mV.

Sounds about right going from memory.

I'll pop outside in a mo and have a look but thought I would mention the launch control thing just in case.

 

[campbellju]

I've just had a horrible thought. Do you have the PRO? If so then one of the settings, AFAIK and I haven't tried it, is for the "launch control" ignition cut at low rpm feature which will cut in under 10mph. Have you tried it with the car moving?

I've already been thinking of this. It is a pro and it will have launch control etc. My guess was the F/C options in the idle setup are where this is set. I have wound both these up to 7500rpm just in case. My take on the way tis works is there are 2 f/c levels so the A/C button acts like a launch control switch for the car. This is why I think I was only getting 2000rpm the other day as I'd set the F/C idle around that level.

I'll have a go today to see if I can replicate it, disturb my neighbours a bit

I don't have the PowerFC boost controller but I'm tempted to upgrade to keep all the control in the same place.

I don't to but I'm looking into using either the standard MAP sensor and redirecting the wires to the PFC rather than the defunct boost gauge or using a different MAP sensor. Also I'll use the solinoid I have for my Blitz controller instead and wire it into the standard boostcut connector for a DIY system controlled by the PFC .[/quote]

Potentially a huge penny has just dropped here. My previous system has an ECU with an A/F modify piggy backed through a daughter board. The boost control was a Blitz E-SBC with a single switch selector for changing between standard, 1.2 and 1.5 Bar. I couldn't find the control unit and have had most of the dash a apart in the past but assumed it must have been very carefully hidden away. I think the PO has already done what you suggested (Nice idea 8) ) It has an an external boost gauge running from a tee already that replaces the standard. I'll have to have a good look at the wiring diagram for the car and see if I can't start tracing what's exactly going on. It would explain why swapping to the old ECU makes things better again.

Thanks for confirming the readings.

Have I tried moving the car to test the launch control theory. NOt exactly as my wife got 8 ton of top soil delivered outside the garage on Wednesday. A fantastic security measure :lol: