piston bores

Is Nad a tw*t?


  • Total voters
    65
O

Odin

Guest
Now I'v been told that my new pistons wont expand as much
because of the coating keeping them cool, So what does that
mean for my rebore do they have to be tighter or what :?: .
 
S

Sirnixalot

Guest
the clearances usually come with the pistons, then the caoting manufacturer should say how much their coating changes the clearances
 
R

rsnissan

Guest
PMSL why is there a poll for nad being a twat on this post?? not that i am complaining as i can vote twice now :wink:
 
O

Odin

Guest
rsnissan said:
PMSL why is there a poll for nad being a t**t on this post?? not that i am complaining as i can vote twice now :wink:
In a word mate it's a stealth poll :D :wink:
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
Forged pistons depending on the silica content will not expand as much and will require tighter clearences. Although as already said these should come with the pistons.

You'll notice that some engines with forged pistons clatter like diesels from cold, this can be because they are low silica content pistons and take ages to expand, but normally it's down to poor machine work.

Be careful if using coated pistons. When I was building my MR2 I had mixed opinions about ceramic coating, then read a lot of horror stories (coating flaking and causing hot spots). The SR20 DET as with the Toyota 3S-GTE is fitted with oil squirters in the bores. These are designed to spray cooled oil at the underside of the piston crown to cool it.

The ceramic coating creates a thermal barrier and stops heat from being absorbed in to the piston. This heat has to go somewhere so the combustion chamber and valves take it, the squirters are not affective any more.

With higher combustion chamber temps the risk of detonation becomes a big threat. Be careful.
 
S

Sirnixalot

Guest
the coating Rob is reffering to is Swain Tech's Gold coat which coats the face of the piston. So i dont think this will creat a problem with the oil cooling the back side of the piston.
 

turblio

New Member
Yep mine clatter when cold and Ben you are quite correct about combustion temps as most people think you just sling a set of forged
pistons in and then your engines bullit proof, but valves then come into the equation (as i found out on a previous turbo application!) as I allways
say ignition and fueling set up is the vital part when uprating/boosting
I have run my R now for four years now often at 1.55bar and it has been
sweet but I check the timing and fueling at least once a month
Frank
 
O

Odin

Guest
I'm also getting the valves and head coated too so the heat will
only have one place to go and thats out the turbo.
 
O

Odin

Guest
When mines run in I'd like to get it set to 2.3 bar high and 1.6 low
but I might have to get bigger injectors for that but I'll push it as
far as the 730cc's will go :twisted:
 
R

robinsongtir

Guest
Rob,

Why not get 1000's they cost a bit more from www.perfectrun.com.au if you are going to run up to 2.3bar on a 2litre engine then you will just fall short at 2.2bar and the 300zx AFM might be close to maxing out depending on the turbo and headwork
 
O

Odin

Guest
Cheers robinson :wink: I'll just stick with 2.2 for now then and see how it goes(probaly bang :cry: ) I'd just like to get as much use out of my turbo
as I can :twisted: Oh and by the way I don't have a maf I have a Motec
instead 8) 8) :D
 
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