overheating

creedy

New Member
overheating the oil and water temp gauges both off the scale, but the water 1 drops now and then. then just shoots up again.
changed the water pump just now and the thermostat, also fitted a samco caus the bottom rad hose had a split in it from the heat. but i all ready have a uprated ally rad.
no white smoke or loss of power from engine so im not sure if its head gasket plus it has a 1.2mm metal 1 anyway.
there is steam coming from expansion tank and also if u crack the rad cap.


any know wot else it could be?
 

Fast Guy

Moderators
Staff member
You might have an airlock in the water system. Try bleeding it and see if it improves. Theres a bleed screw by the thermostat housing on the block. Also make sure the heater (incar)was set to hot when you fill it up.
 

creedy

New Member
bleed screw...were abouts is it 2? is it a nut or screw?

the heater is set to hot but no hot air cums out of it.
 

MarkTurbo

Well-Known Member
The fact that the water temp gauge does drop now and again makes it sound like an airlock :wink:

Are you getting any hot air from the heater :?:
 

MarkTurbo

Well-Known Member
Posted that at the same time :lol:

The bleed screw is a bolt (10mm head i think :oops: ) in the thermostat housing under the dizzy :wink:
 

creedy

New Member
lol...ok m8 thanx for that i will go have a look rite now... do i just open it wile its running?
 

MarkTurbo

Well-Known Member
Theres 3 bolts that hold the thermostat housing on and the bleed screw is at the top nearest the block, and yeah open it while its running :wink:
 

creedy

New Member
:( no didnt work......wen the temp picks up, steam cums out the screw hole.... and the oil and water temps continues to move up.
 

MarkTurbo

Well-Known Member
:? There must still be air in there somewhere then. I've never had this trouble so just trying to think what i'd do if it was my car.

What about if you let it cool down a bit so the stat closes, take the top radiator hose off and fill the engine there with the bleed screw open. Then put the hose back on, fill the rad right up then run the car again and see what happens :wink:

Make sure you use hot water to fill it though :lol:
 

creedy

New Member
bloody thing......ok i will try that, but will have to do it in the morin. as i goin out now.


hope it works
 

Fast Guy

Moderators
Staff member
creedy said:
:( no didnt work......wen the temp picks up, steam cums out the screw hole
The bleed screw hole? Shouldn't you be getting hot water out of there rather than steam? ie there is still air in there I presume.

Did you fit a Nisan thermostat?
 
C

Crazy

Guest
Had a bloody air block in my rad today too for some mad reason :roll:

Tried to bleed it myself but seemed like it was taking ages so I went to a local garage that did it for me......................but after topping up the rad later in the day the air block was back :shock:

So me and my cousin bled it all over again :wink: only to lose the bleed scre/bolt :oops: :cry:

Had to use one of the thermostat housing bolts so I could get it home so it looks like a trip to Nissan first thing Tuesday or even a dig around a few breakers yards for the correct length bleed bolt/screw :roll:
 
J

jpward

Guest
Firstly just to clarify something your suppposed to only bleed the coolant when its cold not warm!! hence the steam parking on an inclince to the front will help;

may i suggest you purchase a twin pack off rad cleaner holts does a set thats cheep cos if your rads had trapped air as mine had you'll notice the difference,

just follow instructions but best off all is to firstly remove bleed screw which is as you are looking at the thermo housin the one to the most left top is a 12mm hex head, now remove completely and set on top of ic for safe keeping and fill rad with clean "Cold" water until a steady stream is flowing out the bleed hole then screw in the bold securly and continue to top up although rad should be nearly filled also make sure as someone pointed out that your in car exchanger is set to hot as to help circulation and insure before you fit rad cap that you have sufficent water in expanision tank and lift bottle so flows out a bit off the rad then replace cap and run fast idle ie 2.5k for 5-10mins and watch temp gauge.

I did my system two days ago and noticed my needle drop from usuall 3/4 to 1/2 way mark under same conditions with only a clean out of the standard and origanal system :!:

8)
 

creedy

New Member
WEY HEY!! :D

well i have dun what you guys said to do, and 4 now at least the temp stays at 1/4 all the time wile idieing, just about to go on test run.......
watch this space.

hopfully c u l8ter mark
 
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