New to pulsars and need advice

Davidbeck

Member
I'd say gearbox and clutches are the only thing that causes some problems but only in heavily modified or abused cars. I've had one gearbox failure in 3 pulsars and that was covered by the abused comment. I was young and drove it with no mechanical sympathy what's so ever.

Generally these cars are very tough and reliable if maintained correctly. Start cutting corners or modifying badly and look out.
Are new boxes Jord to come by or is it a case of getting it reconditioned?
 

vpulsar

Well-Known Member
I'd get your box reconditioned personally then at least you know what you've got rather than a second hand ticking time bomb.

My last two cars have used quaife internals so are pretty bullet proof if looked after properly. My last one went from 300 bhp to over 500 bhp with out any gearbox problems at all.
 

fubar andy

Moderator & N/W Rep
Staff member
To add to vpulsar, ALWAYS purchase new parts for a GTiR gearbox, buying second hand is always a risk. I've done that and would never recommend that!

Also as its over 25 years old you have to have "some" mechanical sympathy, so limit or try to avoid full blown launches.
 

Davidbeck

Member
To add to vpulsar, ALWAYS purchase new parts for a GTiR gearbox, buying second hand is always a risk. I've done that and would never recommend that!

Also as its over 25 years old you have to have "some" mechanical sympathy, so limit or try to avoid full blown launches.
Sound advice, cheers boys. What actually goes in the boxes or is it a case of casings blowing apart?
 

vpulsar

Well-Known Member
Casings don't blow apart unless your drag racing a stupid powered pulsar. I launched mine at Santa pod for years with out issue. Again it comes down to mechanical sympathy. If you drive like a tool don't expect it to not break at some point.
 

Davidbeck

Member
Casings don't blow apart unless your drag racing a stupid powered pulsar. I launched mine at Santa pod for years with out issue. Again it comes down to mechanical sympathy. If you drive like a tool don't expect it to not break at some point.
so come test drive day (they're giving me ramp time aswell). What to check? Rust, leaks, mounts?
 

PobodY

Moderators
Staff member
so come test drive day (they're giving me ramp time aswell). What to check? Rust, leaks, mounts?
If you've got ramp time: look at the arches from underneath and backwards (since the rust probably starts there and works towards the outside); check the box section hasn't been flattened (it's not a chassis rail, but that doesn't stop people treating it like it is and crushing it); look at the ball joints and track rod ends (I seem to have to replace them every couple of years); see what the back of the engine looks like (you probably can't really see any faults, but it's worth looking since it's hard to get at it normally); look at the brakes for signs of sticking callipers and leaks.

To be honest, other than bodywork it's generally not too hard to fix any of these things. If nothing else at least you'd know if the track rod ends will need replacing soon or not (for example).
 

vpulsar

Well-Known Member
I definitely agree that finding one with a good sound structure is the most important thing and look out for accident damage if you have access to a ramp. The mechanicals are pretty robust and easily fixed. But buy one that's rotten and your doomed I say doomed lol.
 

lakeview

Active Member
not seen the car the car at jm imports but considering the amount they go through cant imagine its going to be rough
ive owned a few pulsar gtirs as daily cars dont believe any horror stories about them.ive found them to be very reliable overall and relatively cheap to maintain
 

Jon Olds

Well-Known Member
Make sure the AFR is right. More boost needs more fuel. Its common sense, you can't magically generate 50bhp extra air without it. The AFM should provide it I know, but be aware the AFR.
Boxes: I have two spare worthless transfer boxes. Weighed in 3 for scrap.
Main GB: I run a quaife by choice but haven't broken a std one at near 300hp.
All in all a performance bargain, but a bit 1980's to look at, and handling on ice/snow not great
Jon
 

Davidbeck

Member
Make sure the AFR is right. More boost needs more fuel. Its common sense, you can't magically generate 50bhp extra air without it. The AFM should provide it I know, but be aware the AFR.
Boxes: I have two spare worthless transfer boxes. Weighed in 3 for scrap.
Main GB: I run a quaife by choice but haven't broken a std one at near 300hp.
All in all a performance bargain, but a bit 1980's to look at, and handling on ice/snow not great
Jon
I'm pretty sure it's running standard boost so there shouldn't be any issues with that.
 

Davidbeck

Member
not seen the car the car at jm imports but considering the amount they go through cant imagine its going to be rough
ive owned a few pulsar gtirs as daily cars dont believe any horror stories about them.ive found them to be very reliable overall and relatively cheap to maintain
Have you heard of jm? They sound a decent importer/tuner.
 
Check for oil leaks around the oil pump cover, especially on a rebuilt engine. People get the blocks skimmed without the pump cover attached and then they don't seal properly, its a sh*t job to fix.
 
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