A
ADEGTIR
Guest
i want to lower my r 40m what springs do i need and do anybody have pictures of a r with 40m drop on 17inch wheels.
A
ADEGTIR
Guest
what springs do u recommend then.
antgtir
New Member
To be honest thats what i was thinking, i didnt wanna go too low as it becomes impracticle, especially the places i take the R lol :lol:JIMMYBACK B said:25mm to 30mm id say would sort the look n feel of the carantgtir said:thats wot im going for any more would have the car hitting speed humps all over town :?
Are the standard dampers uprated anyway?? If so then i cant see there being a prob with just changing the springs for uprated versions, or would it be worth getting the dampers?? adjustables etc??
Ant.
You'll probably find that they won't uprate aftermarket springs much above (if at all), the standard ones as, they are so uprated (read: hard ) anyway. As a result, the standard dampers will be up to the job.
I've been using lowering springs (-35mm) on standard dampers for about 2 years and they are fine. I'm just about to uprate the top mounts to Cusco pillowball adjustables though :lol:
When the standard dampers give up the ghost, then I'll probably uprate them, for Koni's or similar and try and get a softer ride :lol:
Cheers
Paul
) anyway. As a result, the standard dampers will be up to the job.I've been using lowering springs (-35mm) on standard dampers for about 2 years and they are fine. I'm just about to uprate the top mounts to Cusco pillowball adjustables though :lol:
When the standard dampers give up the ghost, then I'll probably uprate them, for Koni's or similar and try and get a softer ride :lol:
Cheers
Paul
antgtir
New Member
Yeh id imagine that the nature of the car would dictate that uprated dampers would be as standard, it was just really confirming that they would be ok and still work (even tho the travel would be smaller) with uprated / lowered springs, but i suppose the proof is there with your 2 year running on standard dampers lol :lol:youngsyp said:You'll probably find that they won't uprate aftermarket springs much above (if at all), the standard ones as, they are so uprated (read: hard
I've been using lowering springs (-35mm) on standard dampers for about 2 years and they are fine. I'm just about to uprate the top mounts to Cusco pillowball adjustables though :lol:
When the standard dampers give up the ghost, then I'll probably uprate them, for Koni's or similar and try and get a softer ride :lol:
Cheers
Paul
Cheers, Ant.
standard dampers will "work" with uprated springs but its better to change your dampers too as if nothing else at a financial level you'll save £100 in fitting and tracking twice.
From a technical point, your dampers will be old anyway so less effective at "damping" than designed. Also, with uprated springs you'll get more force in smaller movements so the dampers have to work harder over less travel, doubling your problems.
The end result is poor rebound control causing the car to be less stable on exiting corners.
Springs on their own will "work" as will 18" alloys but it is down to whether you want the look or optimum handling.
the more I look into lowering the R the more I think 20mm is about right and 40mm is the max. After that and the first corner you enter gives you bumpsteer and induced positive camber.
At 40mm you can solve the bumpsteer issues with the "bumpsteer kit" (unsurprisingly) but past 40mm and there is no fix for the induced camber yet on our cars.
Do whatever sails your boat though
From a technical point, your dampers will be old anyway so less effective at "damping" than designed. Also, with uprated springs you'll get more force in smaller movements so the dampers have to work harder over less travel, doubling your problems.
The end result is poor rebound control causing the car to be less stable on exiting corners.
Springs on their own will "work" as will 18" alloys but it is down to whether you want the look or optimum handling.
the more I look into lowering the R the more I think 20mm is about right and 40mm is the max. After that and the first corner you enter gives you bumpsteer and induced positive camber.
At 40mm you can solve the bumpsteer issues with the "bumpsteer kit" (unsurprisingly) but past 40mm and there is no fix for the induced camber yet on our cars.
Do whatever sails your boat though
I totally agreecampbellju said:standard dampers will "work" with uprated springs but its better to change your dampers too as if nothing else at a financial level you'll save £100 in fitting and tracking twice.
From a technical point, your dampers will be old anyway so less effective at "damping" than designed. Also, with uprated springs you'll get more force in smaller movements so the dampers have to work harder over less travel, doubling your problems.
The end result is poor rebound control causing the car to be less stable on exiting corners.
Springs on their own will "work" as will 18" alloys but it is down to whether you want the look or optimum handling.
the more I look into lowering the R the more I think 20mm is about right and 40mm is the max. After that and the first corner you enter gives you bumpsteer and induced positive camber.
At 40mm you can solve the bumpsteer issues with the "bumpsteer kit" (unsurprisingly) but past 40mm and there is no fix for the induced camber yet on our cars.
Do whatever sails your boat though
However, I haven't noticed any undue car stability exiting corners etc... I guess it all depends on how hard you drive the car though :?: :!: There is the issue that new dampers are £116+vat each from Nissan or £400 + for anything more up to the task.
I have to say though, that I am looking into uprating the shocks now and the Tein coilovers seem like the best bet to me
Cheers
Paul