That is an idea, but I would prefer to fit a clevis that's made to fit. Everything I do is easily reversible if It should be put back to original. Hopefully will get an answer Monday and they sell the master cylinder too so will order both together
The slave cylinder is 3/4 “ and as a guess moves about 2”
The master original is 5/8 (0.625) the new is 1/2” (0.5) so .625/0.5 gives a ratio of 1.25
Ie the new master has to move 1.25 x the distance of the original master to move the same amount of fluid and give the same clutch movement
The slave seal should be fine as despite the piston having more force the seal loading is limited as the clutch moves .
There will be some extra movement of the slave available as the clutch disengages before the end of travel of the slave piston and the master has adjustment for pedal positioning to set the bite point .
Hopefully all the stars align and you have a super light clutch , you never know until you try !!
That's it. I've got to try. I'm just trying to find a way of using the original reservoir, but it's a 1/2 hose and need to go down to 7/16 fittings and only a limited distance between the 2. I'm hoping I can get away with a braided line going to the slave. Thanks for your help and ideas
The movement you have is it easier ? You can remove the slave piston and insert a tube with the same OD , then use a smaller piston in the ID .
That would increase the travel for the same amount of fluid moved .
It did feel lighter but I think that was just taking up all the free play. I started looking at removing the slack between slave and fork. Is this the right slave rod? Looks like a chopped up bolt. I've fitted nuts on it so the nuts sit on the edge of the piston and adjusted. It now works but I'm sure the release bearing must be applying pressure to the pressure plate as it was a bigger to fit.
The pedal is not massively lighter. It's also creaking and not smooth to operate now.
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Should look like this ? Yours don’t look right to me , creaking sounds like it is having a massive load on it , it is pointing to something wrong at the slave / clutch actuation fork or the clutch itself - somehow wrongly installed , wrong plate or bearing - it should not be that hard to operate
The slave looks like that. The rod just didn't look right. I think it's just to much load for the master. It' was fine till I adjusted the rod is out of alignment as it's adjusted to the end of the rod to make it work. The fork moves . The little slack there is, you can see it's not seized
Just checked my car , new master line and slave , clutch uprated and done less than 500 miles -
Not that much effort to push the pedal , just using a prybar on the fork I can move it 1/4 inch with about
10 lb force - I’ll try to measure the pedal force
I would estimate around 30lb max and probably less than that maybe 24 or so (I do these sort of checks for force ,loads of times at work)
Google gives 20-30 lb as a normal car figure I checked after I tried it and estimated .
What is your guesstimate of the force (think lifting bag of cement with your leg )