How should a standard R drive?

[darkyGTI-R]

Thanks dotalot, I was hoping someone would rectify my error. I was still half asleep earlier and only just realised what I said was completely incorrect! So, the bleed valve is wound all the way in and he's still getting around 13.5 psi? Try removing the bleed valve and reconnecting the pipe to see what boost value you get. If its still 13.5 psi I'm thinking a blockage somewhere, if its all ok, then maybe a duff bleed valve. Have you checked the valve over to make sure there's nothing stuck inside it?

A duff one especially if it's those cheap ebay ones mine used to spike all over the shop!I now have a Turbosmart one and would highly recommend itand at £45 a bargain and holds 1.1bar very well with no spiking:-D

 

[jambo_gtir]

When you tighten a bleed valve, you are opening the valve and dropping the boost. You wind it out to restrict vacum flow and increase boost.

Not correct at all......:doh: The bleed valve opens to 'bleed off' a bit of the pressure, fooling the actuator. The actuator will open the waste-gate at 0.5bar, thats why the factory boost solanoid OPENS to bleed off a bit of the pressure, so when the actuator 'sees' 0.5bar, your actually boosting at 0.7bar as the solanoid is bleeding off 0.2bar.
With the bleed valve closed tight, you will get low boost.... wind it out and you get more.
It's got nothing to do with vacume flow, its all about the pressure pushing against the membrane of the actuator.

 

[PobodY]

A dawes device give you more boost as you screw it in, maybe that's why people are confused; they can look like a bleed valve, but aren't (a bleed valve).

 

[Fast Guy]

I'd say a dawes device is still a bleed valve, just with a ball and sping inside to only allow air to bleed off when the valve opens.

 

[Matt Evans]

Either way, stick a dawes device on there 'cause 'standard' bleed valves really are total rubbish.