Help! Not starting
- Thread starter PobodY
- Start date
mikey bean
New Member
Eliminate earths by connecting a jump lead from negative on battery the the engine itself. This will act as an earth. If it makes any difference then you need a new earth. Simply cleaning the ends of your earth will do nothing if its the wire between the connections. Worth a try
I've pulled the starter out. - I can get it to spin by connecting it to a battery, but it doesn't throw the gears forward to engage the flywheel; maybe it's not spinning fast enough, could that be worn brushes?
The trick in getting it out was in realising that the bolts go through the gearbox into the starter, not through the starter into the gearbox. :doh:
Once you've got that it slides out backwards, then through the gap between the plenum and the gearbox.
The trick in getting it out was in realising that the bolts go through the gearbox into the starter, not through the starter into the gearbox. :doh:
Once you've got that it slides out backwards, then through the gap between the plenum and the gearbox.
vpulsar
Well-Known Member
A job made much simpler if you've already removed all that worthless bracketry behind there lol.
Apparently "bracketry! isn't a word though lol
Eh? There's only a solenoid and a high-current connector. If I connect the battery directly to the motor (i.e. not the solenoid) it turns, but the gears don't come out.
How do I bridge it to make it behave as if it was on the car?
As it stands I'm assuming it's just not turning like it should, and I'll order a replacement (£110 with next-day delivery)... but I'd rather be sure it is knackered before I spend the money.
I don't think it's working. - I connected the battery to the terminals, as per EL-42 in the manual, to see how far the pinion comes out... it doesn't move.
Just to be sure I then earted the lead to the chassis, and the motor spins-up.
I'll order a new motor with solenoid.
Just to be sure I then earted the lead to the chassis, and the motor spins-up.
I'll order a new motor with solenoid.
Well, I'm back to square one. - The new starter doesn't rattle when you shake it like the old one did, but there' still no life when I turn the key.
I've got 12.6V between the positive terminal and the engine. - It makes no difference if I connect a jumper lead between the battery and the engine.
I've got 12.3V between the negative terminal and the starter motor. - I haven't tried getting a jumper cable on that.
Of the two of them, it's more likely that the lead to the starter is shot, but I'd expect to see more of a voltage drop than 0.3V... I guess that's without load though.
I'll go through the fuses again tomorrow, but I'm now wondering if it's (a) the ignition barrel despite it appearing to do something when I turn the key (b) the alarm/immobiliser playing-up. - It usually lets the starter turn, but won't fire the ignition if it's immobilised; I'm wondering if the battery in the alarm is gone and it's acting like a capacitor so that the current doesn't flow to the starter.
Suffice to say I'm feeling incompetent now.
I've got 12.6V between the positive terminal and the engine. - It makes no difference if I connect a jumper lead between the battery and the engine.
I've got 12.3V between the negative terminal and the starter motor. - I haven't tried getting a jumper cable on that.
Of the two of them, it's more likely that the lead to the starter is shot, but I'd expect to see more of a voltage drop than 0.3V... I guess that's without load though.
I'll go through the fuses again tomorrow, but I'm now wondering if it's (a) the ignition barrel despite it appearing to do something when I turn the key (b) the alarm/immobiliser playing-up. - It usually lets the starter turn, but won't fire the ignition if it's immobilised; I'm wondering if the battery in the alarm is gone and it's acting like a capacitor so that the current doesn't flow to the starter.
Suffice to say I'm feeling incompetent now.
vss irvine
Well-Known Member
you never mentioned you had an immobiliser.
most common reasons ive had gtir's come to me that dont turn over, the problem has been in this order.
battery
immobiliser
starter
barrel.
most common reasons ive had gtir's come to me that dont turn over, the problem has been in this order.
battery
immobiliser
starter
barrel.
I did say there was an alarm, but I didn't say it was an alarm/immobiliser. - I figured that wasn't the problem as the starter circuit isn't immobilised; I've sat there many times with the engine cranking and no start because the ignition circuit was immobilised.
Problem is how to remove that from the equation. If I just unplug it, doesn't everything default to open circuits?
Problem is how to remove that from the equation. If I just unplug it, doesn't everything default to open circuits?
With the new starter is it even trying to turn? 12.6V is low for a battery, ideally should be 13.5-14V
If nothing is happening and the starter is new then check the circuit on the barrel and try to remove any immobilsers that might have failed.
If nothing is happening and the starter is new then check the circuit on the barrel and try to remove any immobilsers that might have failed.
Nope, behaves exactly the same as the old one (not even making clicking noises). - Could be the battery is dead, but I tried it with the jumper pack too (and only the jumper pack).
I'm wondering if the solenoid isn't getting the signal to close the circuit; I was assuming that because everything in the dash goes black when I turn the key, the starter was drawing current... but maybe that's just something that happens when you turn to "start" to prevent the electronics getting damaged?
It's never simple is it?
Times like this I consider throwing in the towel and buying something more reliable. :roll:
I'm wondering if the solenoid isn't getting the signal to close the circuit; I was assuming that because everything in the dash goes black when I turn the key, the starter was drawing current... but maybe that's just something that happens when you turn to "start" to prevent the electronics getting damaged?
It's never simple is it?
Times like this I consider throwing in the towel and buying something more reliable. :roll:
Nope, but I'm trying to get the starter to turn before I look at anything else.
There is a voltage drop when I turn the key to just under 12V, but I don't have a meter that could read ~330CCA. - It's just a multimeter.
George, where you living nowadays? I'll see if I can drop by at the weekend to help out?
Stoke-on-Trent. - I'm about 5 minutes from J15 of the M6.
I've had dead batteries before, and therefore trouble starting because the battery is dead. - This feels different to me; that's why I think there's some other kind of electrical gremlin... probably something blindingly obvious. :doh:
I've had dead batteries before, and therefore trouble starting because the battery is dead. - This feels different to me; that's why I think there's some other kind of electrical gremlin... probably something blindingly obvious. :doh: