FUel filter replacment - how dya do it?

[kyepan]

Allo there, just a quick question for yas all,

Need to change the fuel filter, have done this previously on my rover and the union nuts proved a pain..

the one on the r looks quite different, and i cannot find any posts stating how to chang it.. has anyone done this recently (edd?)

and if so what is the process for it,


cheers

8)

 

[Curtis]

I did mine ages ago, but from what I can remember:
Disconnect your battery. (Just for safety)
I removed the intercooler to make more room.
Remove your petrol cap to release the pressure.
Pull the filter out of the clip that holds it onto the bulk head.
Pull the tubes off the old filter. (They can be very hard to pull off, try twisting at the same time they will come off in the end).
I used grips to squeeze the tube to stop any fuel p!ssing out once I'd got the tubes off.
Fit the new filter and reconnect the battery.
I think that was about it?
Simple job. 8)

 

[Keira]

When i did mine i did it as follows.

Clamped top hose that comes out of filter and into injector rail, removed clip and pulled it free from injector rail catching petrol from the injector rail in a milk bottle, removed clamp from hose from top of filter and poured petrol into milk bottle, undid clip on hose on bottom of filter and removed. Easy.

I'm not saying thats the right way to do it but its how i did mine

 

[kyepan]

wehey sorted,

cheers for the quick response curtis, eger to learn alot more about the car after meeting you, jason and the others at the meet last nihgt

gonna do the transmission oil, plug leads and fuel filter at the weekend
also gonna check the sparks for gap and possibly do a compression test if i have time.

checked for fault codes when i got home and sure enough, 3-4 code was back, reset it again.
i'll check the timing, have a friend of a friend with a timing lamp and then go from there, and then get on the phone to powerstation about how much to change the sensor... and having it tuned to a reasonably long lasting timing/boost setting. cause i would rather run .9 or 1 without probs than 1 spiking to 1.2 (on the way home) with the possibilty of melting internals and generally asking for trouble

what else should i have done at the same time if i go to powerstation, i'm talking about maintanence kind of things, like water pump etc...

thanks again :lol:

 

[Curtis]

No probs...
Don't forget to top up your clutch fluid as well!
I had a feeling the fault would come back, but like I said it might not be a faulty knock sensor, with your timing that far advanced I wouldn't be surprised if your car was detting and the knock sensor was doing it's job.
Another reason your Dizzy has been turned that far round could be that your ECU retarded the timing for what ever reason, someone then checked the timing found it to be low and wound it up, without checking the reason it's low in the place.
An uprated fuel pump is the only other thing I'd concider doing at the same time.

Good luck sorting it out.

 

[AZ STE]

Make sure you get the right fuel filter,one straight pipe and one at 90 degrees Nissan gave me one with two straight pipes and it wont fit without restricting the petrol flow. Check in the box when you get it.

 

[Curtis]

Nissan part number for the fuel filter 1640053j10.
I get mine from Camberley Auto Factors for less then £10

 

[kyepan]

Cheers for all this guys,

in your experience what can cause the ecu to retard the ignition, as that sounds strange..

i'd rather the knock sensor did it's job, like you said, rather than me melting a piston.

cheers for the tip on the filter, i've ordered the part by the part number you mentioned, found it on the forum the other day, keeping a note of such things..

even when the fault code is showing it is still boosting to 1.1bar.. and as it was showing fault codes does that mean it was running in safe mode?

The safe mode reduces it by (read a post earlier) approx 0.2 bar, could it have been running in safe mode for ages, even before it went to be tuned.. and all the other settings (dizzy cap position) are a knock (no pun intended) on effect of the safe mode retarding the ignition and boost etc.

for instance it could be actually running like 1.4 bar or somthing stupid.. does this sound plausable? the boost mod was done by van aken and not power station :lol:

 

[Fast Guy]

How to check the timing:-

You will need a timing light for startersthen curtesy of Frank(Turblio)
Right
Start your engine and get it up to temp,
Stop engine,
Remove the TPS (throttle position sensor) plug,
Restart engine rev to over 3000 3 times
connect timing light and aim at pulley as you look at front of engine
there are a number of marks you want the far right one this is +20
degrees if you are running optimax 18-20 degrees should be fine
loosen distributor and align mark with pointer re-tighten,
Switch off engine,
Reconnect TPS,
Restart and it should be better if it was out by any amount!
Think thats all any doubts get your garage to do it or some one from the club
Frank

On some R's when you disconnect the tps the engine will idle at 1500rpm which is no good as its supposed to drop to 850rpm and be really steadyif it does idle at 1500rpm then reconnect the tps switch off and restart it should then be idling around the 950rpm mark and you can adjust the timing thensome people say the timing resets itself if you don't do the disconnect the tps etc but I've never had a problem and the timing always stays where I put it

If you have to adjust the dizzy alot, be suspicious, there might be another fault. Ask Curtis about his problems with the timing, (can't remember the exact details now)

 

[Anonymous]

Just an idea, instead of clamping hoses and so forth, an easier way to do it is to remove the fuel pump relays (its the green one on the driver side relay box) start the car and let the engine run until the fuel runs out (ie fuel pump not running) and then you wont have any fuel in the lines.

thats the way i do it, much easier and safer



cheers


Gino

 

[wizgti]

Allo there, just a quick question for yas all,

Need to change the fuel filter, have done this previously on my rover and the union nuts proved a pain..

the one on the r looks quite different, and i cannot find any posts stating how to chang it.. has anyone done this recently (edd?)

and if so what is the process for it,


cheers

8)

Oi I was going to ask that question tonight!!

The main problem I've had is getting the f*&king hoses off - tighter than a ducks ar$e!

 

[kyepan]

thanks guys, ive private messaged frank and i'll let you know how i get on.

cheers
8)

 

[Fast Guy]

Just an idea, instead of clamping hoses and so forth, an easier way to do it is to remove the fuel pump relays (its the green one on the driver side relay box) start the car and let the engine run until the fuel runs out (ie fuel pump not running) and then you wont have any fuel in the lines.

Gino

I did it the dodgy way , just put some kitchen roll (or rag) under the hoses and pulled it off, only got a dribble out of the hose, there was more in filter but that's easy to keep in til you get it clear of the car

 

[kyepan]

All done,

not half as much hassle as the rover, easy by comparison..

removing the intercooler made loads of room to work

removed the hose entering the bottom of the first to get it loose, then once free i could get propper purchase on the top one.

cheers for all your advice guys..

its drinking like a fish now.. must have been resticting the fuel flow some what.

 

[Anonymous]

umm.. I'm gonna supply an easy answer for this (that works.. no problems).. that doesn't require clamps and shit?

* make sure car is off
* get a small bucket to catch excess petrol
* disconnect hoses from fuel filter and try to aim them at bucket
* put new fuel filter on..

sure you'll have a TINY bit of petrol splash.. but it evaporates quickly, so big deal.
also note : hoses are a bitch to get off, I used pliers to pull it off (stuck HARD)

simple yeh?