Feeling hot hot hot!!!

[Cathode]

Update: it turns out that it could be a bloody great air lock. I got a new rad cap, standard 0.9 bar, jacked it up to about 45 degrees and used a spill free funnel and possibly got a lot of air out of the system. I think initially there was nothing in the expansion tank which led to air being sucked in since there wasn't enough water in there. I’m not sure if that’s possible, so someone let me know. I went out for about an hour prior to this with only the rad cap without getting rid of any extra air that may have been locked in and it took a lot longer for the temp to start creeping. Since doing the air lock after it seems to hold the temp better and isn't fluctuating on roundabouts. Time will tell. fingers crossed.

 

[LeeSmith]

My expansion tank has been empty for ages, my temps are always good. Maybe I should pop some coolant in there......

When I had the coolant flush done I added the royal purple coolant additive (and a new cap fitted). Seems to work a treat.

 

[Cathode]

Been out for about an hour this morning. No over heating. It crept a touch but sorted itself out. As far as I’m aware head gaskets don’t get better so I am going to say it must be an airlock. Let it idle for a couple of minutes, temp was as it should be. I’m not going to dare say it’s fixed but just keep my eye on the bugger.

 

[Fast Guy]

Did you follow the correct bleeding procedure to get all the air out in the first place?

 

[Cathode]

Did you follow the correct bleeding procedure to get all the air out in the first place?

I believe I did but I can’t say that I did a good enough job of it hence my continuing temp issues. This time round I used the spill free funnel which made things easier to gauge. It may have worked as it seems to be ok now.

 

[fubar andy]

Did you follow the correct bleeding procedure to get all the air out in the first place?

Have you got the link to this.

I found a link from a previous post from youself with a link, but it said its "no longer available"

 

[Fast Guy]

When filling, set heater control to max hot, remove bleed screw on the thermostat housing until water runs out, then replace the bleed screw and fill up the radiator. Now you need to modify the rad cap by putting a piece of wire or similar between the rubber and the metal centre bit.(it lets the air bleed out into the overflow tank) Fit it to the radiator. Start the engine warm it up and run it a 2500rpm for 10secs, turn off, fill up the radiator. Repeat 3 times.
Remove wire from rad cap and refit it as standard item. Run engine at 4000rpm and move heater control to a few positions between hot and cold , then check level again. (rad will be pressurised this time, so let it cool down or cover the rad cap well)
We don't have the air bleeder cap referred to.

 

[Cathode]

^Thanks for this^ Fast Guy. I appreciate the time taken to map this out! I didn’t do this at all. Next thing on the list for next weekend weather permitting.