Clutch help!

[Bumpkin]

Hi,
I think my ckutch has finally bought the farm. The biting point has been getting lower and lower to the point that when its hot I can hardly get into gear. I've bled and bled the clutch lines and changed the flexi to no avail so it looks like the one job I'd been dreading getting done, needs to be done .

Where's the cheapest place to get a clutch kit from ?

Is it worth sticking a standard clutch back in ?

I'm, thinking Helix organic, any good ?

I'm running about 280bhp at 1 or 1.2 bar depending on mood :evil: .

all advice gratefully received.

 

[paz]

Don't get a standard clutch, if you're not after big power get something like a Helix organic which will happily take upto 350ish BHP. Saves you having to do it in the future when you want to turn up the boost, and is probably cheaper than a standard item :lol:

However before you invest in a new clutch did you know you can adjust the biting point of the clutch, someone one here should be able to tell you how to do it. From memory there should be someway of adjusting it just above the pedal.

Hope this helps.

Paz

(edit - didn't read the post properly and have just noticed you already run over standard boost. The standard clutch is a no go, go helix organic or ceremetallic, thats what I'm going to do when mine pops its clogs. PS How long did your standard clutch last?)

 

[Bumpkin]

If the biting point can be adjusted I'd be really interested to know how as the clutch isn't slipping yet and I may be able get it to last a 1000 or so longer? Anyone know how to do it ?

As for the life of the current clutch, I bought the car directly from the importers back in April with a leaky clutch flexy. I changed that and had a clutch again but the biting point was quite low. The clutch is pretty difficult to depress so I guess it doesn't have a standard one in anyway, its also a bit on/off so maybe a paddle. :?

 

[Tart]

Just a quick note to save u money... sounds more like the clutch slave cylinder instead. Lot cheaper than gettin a clutch done!!! Mushashi's R has a brand new AP Clutch but has the same prob you have. I have also had the same prob.

On mine it was clutch fluid (easy) on Mushashi's its the slave cylinder leaking. The slave is located on the front of the engine block just slightly to the right from centre. Have a look at that first.... (also its a lot easier to do). Try putting a dead leg on the clutch first overnight to see if it helps....

In fact if its on/off its most likely the slave sticking. On Mushashi's R, its ok until it gets properly warmed up, then the bite is practically on the floor.

 

[ram5ay]

However before you invest in a new clutch did you know you can adjust the biting point of the clutch, someone one here should be able to tell you how to do it. From memory there should be someway of adjusting it just above the pedal.

You can adjust the position of the clutch pedal in relation to the master cylinder, which might give you a higher biting point. If you push down/pull up your clutch pedal you should be able to feel if it has any play in it which you can adjust out.

If you look upwards from the drivers side footwell to the top of the clutch pedal, you'll see where the rod from the clutch master cylinder joins on. The rod is threaded, and has a 12mm lock nut on it. loosen the lock nut and turn the rod with long nose pliars or the like, so it screws out to take up any play. Tighten the locknut again.

 

[Bumpkin]

cheers guys will definitely take a look at the pedal adjustment at lunchtime, if that doesn't work then maybe a slave cylinder seal kit before I go all out with the clutch change.....which would definitely keep the missus happy and the kids fed :?

 

[Jamz]

You can adjust the biting point but it's a pain in ass job.

If you get your head right in in the footwell and look up you should be able to see the clutch pedal stop screw. Almost directly opposite (a bit further up) on the other side of the pedal lives the master cylinder push rod. It's basically a threaded rod with a lock nut on it thats screwed into the pedal via a bracket.

You need to undo the lock nut by turning it clockwise towards the front of the car then do the same with the rod. The easiest way I found to do this was to keep screwing the nut in until it runs out of thread and starts to turn the rod.

The lock nut itself is a size 12 but there is almost no room to get a spanner in there. I ended up cutting a spanner in half and bending the head a bit. It didn't really work but I got there in the end.

I'll try and take some piccies tonight and post them up.

James

 

[Bumpkin]

Cheers James, I would appreciate some pics, especially if its as much of a pig as you say :shock:

I'm really hoping that will be the solution now :? :shock: